So I just moved to california to go to school and I had my first smog test here and low and behold I failed
I failed both the visual and the emissions parts, now the visual failure is only because of a cracked pcv hose so thats easily replaceable. My concern is that I failed in HC(ppm), at 15mph the max is 61 and I measured 103... and at 25mph max is 45 and I measured 80. What could be wrong?

 

You may have a misfire. High HC is usually an indication of unburnt fuel or rich conditions. Do a complete ignition tune up, change your oil then try doing a pre-test to see if your numbers went down. Cause if you fail I believe 2 smog test, you'll be labeled a gross poluter Another scenerio is your cat is going bad or really slow to warm up. What year is the car? Did you smog while the cat was really hot?
Worst case scenerio, compression is low and your not getting a proper combustion.

 

What car (year and model)? How many miles?

Change your PCV and oil as a start.

 

Its a '98 GSR with 108xxx miles, I'll try the ignition tune up idea. What all does that include?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDMguy88 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So I just moved to california to go to school and I had my first smog test here and low and behold I failed
I failed both the visual and the emissions parts, now the visual failure is only because of a cracked pcv hose so thats easily replaceable. My concern is that I failed in HC(ppm), at 15mph the max is 61 and I measured 103... and at 25mph max is 45 and I measured 80. What could be wrong?</TD></TR></TABLE>

My 00 GSR has the only engine modification of an AEM CAI.

I was permitted 35/50 PPM HC (no clue why the newer car is allowed more HC @ 25mph), and tested at 34/49, on the 2nd test (1st test was failing, but my mechanic accidentally kicked the probe out of the exhaust pipe). Skin of my teeth pass.

I think GSRs just run a bit rich from the factory.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ruffrhyder &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Cause if you fail I believe 2 smog test, you'll be labeled a gross poluter</TD></TR></TABLE>

Not sure if the gross polluter mark is applied at 2 fails, but the car is definitely treated differently after 2 consecutive fails. I think it might force you to a "test only" station afterwards.

Either way, this is the reason my mechanic, um, yeah, read above.

This worked for me to get an 88 Civic with a failing cat to pass:

 

To bad your car isn't a 97 otherwise you would qualify for this TSB
http://www.nsxprime.com/FAQ/Re...1.htm

Get new spark plugs, cap, rotor and wires. Do an oil change, you'd be surprised how much an oil change can reduce your emission numbers. If you have acess to a code reader that displays O2 voltage, view the voltage output from your O2 sensors and compare them to the recommended values. I believe front O2 should fluctuate from .1-1 volt and the rear O2 should be at around .4-.6 or so, after the car has achieve normal operating temps, and the O2 sensors have reached like a minimum of 600 degrees or something like that.

Also, where is your timing set? If it's at 16 BTDC you may be able to adjust your timing a degree or 2 to lower your HC, but then the other numbers may go up a bit.

 

The CRC works pretty good, if the problem lies with a lot of buildup.
But if the cat is really bad, specially on an OBD2 vehicle, I don't think it will do much.
OP, where did you buy the car, cause if you bought it out of state and just moved to CA, I don't know if the car has an OBD2 CA compliant cat? Someone once told me if car manufacturer knows the car isn't going to be sold in CA, they put a different cat on the car, one that is cheaper, and won't work as well as a cat installed on a car that they know is gonna be sold in CA. Something about saving money because of the material savings in the cats.

 

Awhile back I had a b16 swap in my hatch and failed the hydro carbon test. An easy fix was to pour rubbing alcohol in your gas tank right before you go to do your emmissions test. Now before you say it's crazy I thought the same thing when I was told to do it; but the way it was explained to me is: It will lean out your fuel and burn alot leaner than normal.

All I know is I passed my HC(ppm) test with flying colors after that and never looked back. Good luck

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dreamw3rkz &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Awhile back I had a b16 swap in my hatch and failed the hydro carbon test. An easy fix was to pour rubbing alcohol in your gas tank right before you go to do your emmissions test. Now before you say it's crazy I thought the same thing when I was told to do it; but the way it was explained to me is: It will lean out your fuel and burn alot leaner than normal.

All I know is I passed my HC(ppm) test with flying colors after that and never looked back. Good luck</TD></TR></TABLE>

Methanol works also. It burns completely almost instantly

 

I bought the car in IL and its actually still registered there and I know the standards are different because in IL they just check to make sure you arent throwing any codes and my car doesnt throw any codes. Im pretty sure the timing is set to factory, not sure what that is, but I bought it off of a 50 something year old man and I doubt he did anything to the timing.

edit: can anyone confirm this rubbing alcohol idea?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dreamw3rkz &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Awhile back I had a b16 swap in my hatch and failed the hydro carbon test. An easy fix was to pour rubbing alcohol in your gas tank right before you go to do your emmissions test. Now before you say it's crazy I thought the same thing when I was told to do it; but the way it was explained to me is: It will lean out your fuel and burn alot leaner than normal.

All I know is I passed my HC(ppm) test with flying colors after that and never looked back. Good luck</TD></TR></TABLE>

This is alcohol that is intended to be used in the fuel system. Since alcohol burns cooler, the combustions temps drop, and NOx is reduced. Alcohol also doesn't produce HC when burned.

Of course, it isn't intended to be used to cheat smog tests, just to keep gas lines from freezing...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDMguy88 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
edit: can anyone confirm this rubbing alcohol idea?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Sure, its one of the primary ingredients in that CRC stuff.

 

so alcohol will drop NOx numbers? I need HC dropped, or does it do that too?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ruffrhyder &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You may have a misfire. High HC is usually an indication of unburnt fuel or rich conditions. Do a complete ignition tune up, change your oil then try doing a pre-test to see if your numbers went down. Cause if you fail I believe 2 smog test, you'll be labeled a gross poluter Another scenerio is your cat is going bad or really slow to warm up. What year is the car? Did you smog while the cat was really hot?
Worst case scenerio, compression is low and your not getting a proper combustion.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Wow, that's a whole laundry list of stuff you got out of him being high in hydrocarbons.

NO, there isn't necessarily a misfire cause a misfire would probably result in high NO as well since the chamber would be hotter than normal. High HC usually just denotes running rich or not getting a complete burn.

Best thing to do is to change out your electric stuff if you haven't before, (like stated above) just to be good to your car. o2 sensors would also be a good place to start. Retard your timing too. Use 87 octane. Replace your cat as a last resort.

 

the car doesnt run rich from the factory does it? Is there any truth to the cars not from california not having california grade catalytic converters? Does the "guaranteed to pass" stuff actually make you pass for sure?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TunerN00b &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

This is alcohol that is intended to be used in the fuel system. Since alcohol burns cooler, the combustions temps drop, and NOx is reduced. Alcohol also doesn't produce HC when burned.

Of course, it isn't intended to be used to cheat smog tests, just to keep gas lines from freezing...
</TD></TR></TABLE>

The yellow bottle has methanol, much better

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDMguy88 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the car doesnt run rich from the factory does it? Is there any truth to the cars not from california not having california grade catalytic converters? Does the "guaranteed to pass" stuff actually make you pass for sure?</TD></TR></TABLE>

The car doesn't run rich from the factory. All the maps are tuned the same way. What happens over time is that fuel injectors get clogged, o2 sensors read lean, Cat converters go bad, you buildup carbon on your piston which raises compression and temps, all the electronics get old and worn. etc etc.

 

guaranteed to pass will bring HC down from 103 to 61 ppm?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDMguy88 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">guaranteed to pass will bring HC down from 103 to 61 ppm?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Retard your ignition timing all the way and take your test. I will almost guarantee you will pass. This will bring your HC's and CO's down enough to pass.

How this works is the spark is ignited at a later point in your compression stroke to which there is less fuel to burn.. which in turn will cause you to have lower emissions.

 

wouldnt this also result in unburned fuel which causes high HC readings?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDMguy88 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">wouldnt this also result in unburned fuel which causes high HC readings?</TD></TR></TABLE>

No thats my point. It will burn the same amount of time but burns later so all the unburnt fuel will be burnt through more than if your ignition was advanced.

 

gotcha, is retarding the timing on the distributor enough or do I have to mess with the cams?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDMguy88 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">gotcha, is retarding the timing on the distributor enough or do I have to mess with the cams?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Ignition timing is all you need to do. Turn the distributor towards the front of the vehicle and go pass your test.

 

alright thanks bro

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ozzyman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Ignition timing is all you need to do. Turn the distributor towards the front of the vehicle and go pass your test. </TD></TR></TABLE>

LoL, i must say of course that you should be doing this with a timing light.

18 degrees is the most you can retard it.