Vtec Stutter: TPS?
well, this just started happening, about a week ago i was driving the ITR around, and did a 0-120 pull and it was all fine, get on a backroad and chrip 2nd hard...and then it did not go into vtec when i switched to 3rd gear
pulled into a neighborhood, figured a plug came off, and thats what it was..the TPS plug had came off, plugged it back in and all was good
was driving it again yesterday, goes into vtec perfect, and then has a slight stutter between 7-8k rpms
now i inspected the TPS some more, the actual part where it plugs in is broken off.bad connection?..the head of the 2 screws that bolt it in are also broken off
the oil level is fine, infact i added a quart before i went out, so its not because of that...
could the hesitation/stutter be a cause of a bad TPS? it doesnt do it ALL the time either. or could it be a bad vtec solenoid? had a similar problem in my GS-R
pics of said tps...arrow pointing to where its broken...the plug doesn't "snap" in either, just sort of chills there
Attached Images

pulled into a neighborhood, figured a plug came off, and thats what it was..the TPS plug had came off, plugged it back in and all was good
was driving it again yesterday, goes into vtec perfect, and then has a slight stutter between 7-8k rpms
now i inspected the TPS some more, the actual part where it plugs in is broken off.bad connection?..the head of the 2 screws that bolt it in are also broken off
the oil level is fine, infact i added a quart before i went out, so its not because of that...
could the hesitation/stutter be a cause of a bad TPS? it doesnt do it ALL the time either. or could it be a bad vtec solenoid? had a similar problem in my GS-R
pics of said tps...arrow pointing to where its broken...the plug doesn't "snap" in either, just sort of chills there
Attached Images

Yes an intermittent TPS signal wiill cause the symptoms you described.
Unfortunately, you can't replace the sensor side of the connector without replacing the sensor itself. And you can't buy just a sensor new, you must get the whole throttle body.
The bolts that attach the TPS to the throttle body are broken off from the factory. They didn't want the sensor to be replaceable. You can slot the bolt heads with a cutoff wheel and turn them out with a screwdriver to replace the sensor. However it will need to be calibrated within spec (clocked) or you will throw TPS codes for signal range.
You have three options:
1) Attach the connector in a way that it will not seperate. Perhaps wrap it generously in safety wire and/or tape, around the harness side connector and then around the TPS. itself
2) Replace the TPS with a used one (can find them online, but be careful because usually they have been removed for a reason... as in they are already bad) and calibrate it (requires multimeter & spec sheet).
3) break more off of the sensor side connector so that you can solder leads onto the pins (and insulate them sufficiently), then splice into you engine harness behind the grey connector.
Personally I would try #1 and then goto option 3.
Good luck.
Unfortunately, you can't replace the sensor side of the connector without replacing the sensor itself. And you can't buy just a sensor new, you must get the whole throttle body.
The bolts that attach the TPS to the throttle body are broken off from the factory. They didn't want the sensor to be replaceable. You can slot the bolt heads with a cutoff wheel and turn them out with a screwdriver to replace the sensor. However it will need to be calibrated within spec (clocked) or you will throw TPS codes for signal range.
You have three options:
1) Attach the connector in a way that it will not seperate. Perhaps wrap it generously in safety wire and/or tape, around the harness side connector and then around the TPS. itself
2) Replace the TPS with a used one (can find them online, but be careful because usually they have been removed for a reason... as in they are already bad) and calibrate it (requires multimeter & spec sheet).
3) break more off of the sensor side connector so that you can solder leads onto the pins (and insulate them sufficiently), then splice into you engine harness behind the grey connector.
Personally I would try #1 and then goto option 3.
Good luck.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Sparkles »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Get a new Blox TPS from ebay. They're like $30 shipped</TD></TR></TABLE>
i dont recommend that. when my tps broke (it literally fell apart in my hand when i removed it) i bought a blox tps, calibrated it, and ran with it. every time i opened the throttle generously i threw a tps code. all the tuners in philly asked what was wrong with me, "dont you know not to use aftermarket tps? only use OEM." lol. goes for everything. g/l
i dont recommend that. when my tps broke (it literally fell apart in my hand when i removed it) i bought a blox tps, calibrated it, and ran with it. every time i opened the throttle generously i threw a tps code. all the tuners in philly asked what was wrong with me, "dont you know not to use aftermarket tps? only use OEM." lol. goes for everything. g/l
i would replace with a known good working tps, can get them for around 25 all day on these forums
use a dremel and a bit to cut a flat slot into the rivets and unscrew them and put the new one on
use a dremel and a bit to cut a flat slot into the rivets and unscrew them and put the new one on
well actually, i posted the same post on another forum...
my speedometer has been flickering also, i know its because of a loose connection because i had cut and spliced 2 wires on the sensor...
could that also be a cause of the stutter? dude on other forums posted that if the ecu senses that the car is not in movement it will not let the solenoid engage?
my speedometer has been flickering also, i know its because of a loose connection because i had cut and spliced 2 wires on the sensor...
could that also be a cause of the stutter? dude on other forums posted that if the ecu senses that the car is not in movement it will not let the solenoid engage?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sackdz »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yup, 95% sure VSS is required for VTEC xover as well. </TD></TR></TABLE>
+ 5%
+ 5%
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sackdz »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yup, 95% sure VSS is required for VTEC xover as well. </TD></TR></TABLE>
yes it is.
yes it is.
ive had a similar problem with my tps car drove like crap, so my tech just suggested super glue. i know that sounds ghetto but i couldnt afford to buy a whole new throttle body.
honda is weird about certain parts, but i havent had one single cel or anything
honda is weird about certain parts, but i havent had one single cel or anything
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tartje »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
yes it is.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Is this list complete & accurate?
Sensor req for VTEC xover:
TPS
RPM
VSS
OPSw (non-JDM)
ECT?
CrnkPos?
yes it is.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Is this list complete & accurate?
Sensor req for VTEC xover:
TPS
RPM
VSS
OPSw (non-JDM)
ECT?
CrnkPos?
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8k, bad, blox, calibrate, hesitation, intermittent, replace, rsx, sensor, spec, studder, stutter, stuttering, tps, vtec





