Car dies at idle?
Hi, I have a 1995 Honda Accord LX and recently I have encountered a problem with my car dieing while idling. I checked the plugs and wires and noticed there was oil in the #1 and #3 cylinders. It wasnt anything major (i hope) it looked like my tube seals were leaking and I assumed the oil in the cylinder was causing an irregular spark. I changed the tube seals and the vc gasket and everythign was fine until today. Same thing happened, I popped the hood and realized one of the hoses on the valve cover wasnt connected and there was oil all over. There was also oil in the #1 cylinder again which is what I think caused the car to die several times on the way home. The car came with bosch platinum wires and the base of the wire doesnt cover the cylinder all the way. Tt sits on top of the of the valve cover and I think the oil got into the cylinder that way. There was no over heating, but I have to turn and hold the ignition serveral times before the car starts up. Sometimes while I was holding the key turned everythign was working and as soon as I let it go the car shuts off. Could there be any other issues (possible starter, dist?) that can be causing this? Or, do you guys think that there is still oil that hasnt burned off in the cylinder that is causing irregular spark. I will probably be changing the wires in the meantime but if any other input will be appreciated.
your description of the engine shutting off as you release the key sounds like a possible ignition switch contact problem.
Often times you can look at the back of the switch and see melted solder or the solder will look 'frosty' instead of shiny.
However this problem of shutting down wouldn't just happen at idle.
The idle shut down COULD be from a sticking or carbon filled idle air control valve.
Often times you can look at the back of the switch and see melted solder or the solder will look 'frosty' instead of shiny.
However this problem of shutting down wouldn't just happen at idle.
The idle shut down COULD be from a sticking or carbon filled idle air control valve.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hondadude »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">your description of the engine shutting off as you release the key sounds like a possible ignition switch contact problem.
Often times you can look at the back of the switch and see melted solder or the solder will look 'frosty' instead of shiny.
However this problem of shutting down wouldn't just happen at idle.
The idle shut down COULD be from a sticking or carbon filled idle air control valve.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
i just learned it wasnt just at idle, the car shut off while driving. im going to look into the ignition switch contact problem now.
Often times you can look at the back of the switch and see melted solder or the solder will look 'frosty' instead of shiny.
However this problem of shutting down wouldn't just happen at idle.
The idle shut down COULD be from a sticking or carbon filled idle air control valve.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
i just learned it wasnt just at idle, the car shut off while driving. im going to look into the ignition switch contact problem now.
When you were driving did you notice the RPM go to zero and then die on you. Does the car drive sluggish? I had the same sympton on the 95 civic I just bought. I made a thread today on it after I fixed the issue. It ended up being the IACV Idle Air Control Valve. Heres a step by step on cleianing it. Hope it helps.
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=2398905
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=2398905
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by gqstatus05 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">When you were driving did you notice the RPM go to zero and then die on you. Does the car drive sluggish? </TD></TR></TABLE> yeah, rpm's died the speedo went to 0, it was like everything shutoff. come to think of it a few weeks back this happened and then everything started working right away, i thought the vss was going out. does any1 know of any instructions on replacing an ignition switch? i dont have a helms available.
Yeah dude totally unsafe. I took it for a test drive and the RPM's dropped to zero and the car cut off in the middle of the street, luckily no one behind me. Problem fixed yay!!! It turned out to be my IACV.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by gqstatus05 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yeah dude totally unsafe. I took it for a test drive and the RPM's dropped to zero and the car cut off in the middle of the street, luckily no one behind me. Problem fixed yay!!! It turned out to be my IACV.</TD></TR></TABLE>nice, i'll check that out. after doing some searching online and on h-t there is a good chance it could be my ignition switch. on of the things that is making me turn towards that conclusion is that when i hold the ignition in the "on" position it will stay started until it is released. nonetheless, i have an appointment i made and appointment with ,my mechanic just to be sure.
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Dude!!! I totally take that back. My car is still having the same [freak]ing problem!! grrrr. I will subscribe to this. We both have a common goal.
So far I cleaned out my IACV, Seafoamed the car and I could see a little smoke come from the firewall. I'm thinking my problem is a leak. I replaced my Distributor and put on a new Cap & Rotor. I'm going nuts.
So far I cleaned out my IACV, Seafoamed the car and I could see a little smoke come from the firewall. I'm thinking my problem is a leak. I replaced my Distributor and put on a new Cap & Rotor. I'm going nuts.
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Bcostadina94
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May 15, 2015 10:23 PM




