a few months ago, my 93 hatch started with a stock gsr swap. just i/e/h, and a ebay chip. ran a 9.8 in the 1/8th with ebay coilovers, and full interior on 89 octane gas.

i blew my motor 4-5 months ago, and took it out to get re-built, and dropped in ls rods/crank, and pr3 pistons, with type-c competition cams, BC valvetrain, and got GC/koni set-up. i took the car up to the race track again last night, and was expecting something like a 9.3 w/ 93 octane, and my konis all the way stiff in the rear, and slightly better tires (still street tires).

my first time running this set-up i ran a 11.1 spinning all the way thru 3rd

second time, i ran a 9.8, third 9.7, and couldnt get any lower.

a nice looking white EK hatch with a STOCK gsr swap ran a freakin 9.6 all day long with street tires

a black gsr integra ran a 9.7 also.

my car is freshly tuned, and resulted 240 all the way across on the compression test. the tuner said my 2" header is holding me back a bit, and a new TB, and intake would work wonders as im choking the *** outta my car.

i ran the white EK hatch, and i beat him in my 60', but half way down the track, he walked me like i was standing still. my new redline is around 7,1k, but has a hard time pulling after 5700 rpm.

if this is the way my car is running, i dont want to dump anymore money in it if im getting whooped by stock gsr's. could my header, and intake choke it down THAT bad? i mean i should still run faster than stock gsr's even if im choking the car out a bit, right?

what could be wrong? its not driver error cause i was ahead about 1/3 of the way, and my top end power is whats hurt, so think the tuner messed up somewhere?

 

You say it's tuned right? Post your graph.

 

"my new redline is around 7,1k"

should be 8000rpm
your loosing alot of power

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fatpride111 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">a few months ago, my 93 hatch started with a stock gsr swap. just i/e/h, and a ebay chip. ran a 9.8 in the 1/8th with ebay coilovers, and full interior on 89 octane gas.

i blew my motor 4-5 months ago, and took it out to get re-built, and dropped in ls rods/crank, and pr3 pistons, with type-c competition cams, BC valvetrain, and got GC/koni set-up. i took the car up to the race track again last night, and was expecting something like a 9.3 w/ 93 octane, and my konis all the way stiff in the rear, and slightly better tires (still street tires).

my first time running this set-up i ran a 11.1 spinning all the way thru 3rd

second time, i ran a 9.8, third 9.7, and couldnt get any lower.

a nice looking white EK hatch with a STOCK gsr swap ran a freakin 9.6 all day long with street tires

a black gsr integra ran a 9.7 also.

my car is freshly tuned, and resulted 240 all the way across on the compression test. the tuner said my 2" header is holding me back a bit, and a new TB, and intake would work wonders as im choking the *** outta my car.

i ran the white EK hatch, and i beat him in my 60', but half way down the track, he walked me like i was standing still. my new redline is around 7,1k, but has a hard time pulling after 5700 rpm.

if this is the way my car is running, i dont want to dump anymore money in it if im getting whooped by stock gsr's. could my header, and intake choke it down THAT bad? i mean i should still run faster than stock gsr's even if im choking the car out a bit, right?

what could be wrong? its not driver error cause i was ahead about 1/3 of the way, and my top end power is whats hurt, so think the tuner messed up somewhere?</TD></TR></TABLE>
hrmm

1) Why is your redline so freaken low..
2) A 2'' collector is small, specially fo ra 81x89 setup At least a 2.5'' is recommend with a 2.5'' piping or possible bigger depending on mods to support.
3) Anything else done aside from the crank/rods... There's absolutely no reason why you shouldn't be reving to AT least the stock GSR redline, if you have the upgraded rod bolts.. The ls crank / rods are a very strong rod along from the factory, i believe your limited rev range is holding you back.. along with driver error..

Some others will chime in and give some other good opinions i'm sure.. your top end sucks because your not reving higher enough to take avantage of the GSR's top end power from the head..

 

it was just a street driven tune. he was messing with it for 4 hours, and has a very similar tune to mine, so im expecting it to be atleast half way decent.

i tried reving it past 7,1k and the car just died, puffed out a cloud of smoke, and i paniced so i shifted cause it was weird...

just... "baaaaaaaAAAAAAAA..... *puff*...*chirp* baaaAAAA"

 

What cams are in the engine? Did you ever actually figure that out?

A car that wont rev above 7100rpm with coughing and burping smoke isnt "tuned". If you dont even have a graph, why are you so mystified as to why you got walked on by a stock GSR swapped EK?

 

"i tried reving it past 7,1k and the car just died, puffed out a cloud of smoke, and i paniced so i shifted cause it was weird..."



you just answered your own question

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by IntegraType-R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
hrmm

1) Why is your redline so freaken low..
2) A 2'' collector is small, specially fo ra 81x89 setup At least a 2.5'' is recommend with a 2.5'' piping or possible bigger depending on mods to support.
3) Anything else done aside from the crank/rods... There's absolutely no reason why you shouldn't be reving to AT least the stock GSR redline, if you have the upgraded rod bolts.. The ls crank / rods are a very strong rod along from the factory, i believe your limited rev range is holding you back.. along with driver error..

Some others will chime in and give some other good opinions i'm sure.. your top end sucks because your not reving higher enough to take avantage of the GSR's top end power from the head.. </TD></TR></TABLE>
thats what i dont get, i have NO top end power what so ever. i tried testing it earlier today on the highway, and i was in 3rd going probably about 85, 90mph, and i looked down at my tach and my rpms were not moving... like i was stuck at 6k.

that was the first time i ever really revved thecar past 7k cause i have no power what so ever past 5700... and he told me i wouldnt make much power past 7k anyway.

i have a 2.5" exhaust, and i do have arp rod bolts. one of my auto teachers was telling me that maybe the spark curve or something wasnt done right, or maybe theres something wrong with my timing. ive also noticed that some blueish, almost white smoke puffs out when i shift, but my stock gsr always did that, so idk if thats normal.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Combustion Contraption &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What cams are in the engine? Did you ever actually figure that out?

A car that wont rev above 7100rpm with coughing and burping smoke isnt "tuned". If you dont even have a graph, why are you so mystified as to why you got walked on by a stock GSR swapped EK?</TD></TR></TABLE>

im assuming theyre type c blox competition cams, as thats what everyone was telling me, and i called them up, and described it to them, and they said it seemed about right.

dont get me wrong, the car pulls like a mother ***** from about 3-5,5k, but past that, it gets lazy.

 

NO VTEC!

 

Just use your brain for a minute.

There is no way you can determine what cams you have by describing features over the phone, unless there are clear markings, example, BLOX C, or something similar on them. Describing a "fat lobe that flattens out after" wont cut it.

You are stating the car is breaking up up top. Airflow becomes critical with high RPM power, and if youre choking the engine with too much fuel, unknown cams with unknown centerlines (not enough or too much overlap), and a 2" diameter collector, you would see there is really no need for this thread.

 

thats why im asking if my header/ TB/ and intake being too small could cause it to choke up and keep it from reving past 7k... im not asking for anyone to solve this for me, im just wondering if thats what could have caused it, and hold back some of its potential.

i know air flow is critical at high rpm's, thats what i came to the suspision that "restrictive air flow = less power". just to what amount though? im saving up for a new header, ive posted up cams, cranks, nitrous kits, and different things on a local forum to help fund it, and if i have enough, a Edelbrock, or skunk2 intake, and ill port my own TB.

i just wasnt sure if it was my tune, even though i have faith in these guys, they seemed really cool and knew what they were doing, or if it was my fault for not having supporting mods.

 

you need to post up a dyno chart.


if the motor smokes after 7000rpm something is definitely wrong.

you should perform a leakdown test.

 

See how it runs after you get VTEC to work.

 

vtec does work... it pulls hard before, and after vtec is engaged.

the way he tuned the car, was with a wideband, and removing the ecu, and making changes to it, test drive it, and check the wideband again, and repeat. took 4 hours. i sent the guy a PM, and if he doesnt reply by tommorrow, ill just go up there my self.

 

Your tuner sounds like a real genius.


Who built the motor? Who degreed the cams in?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by FST GSR 1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Your tuner sounds like a real genius.


Who built the motor? Who degreed the cams in?</TD></TR></TABLE>

That will be a problem...It seems that all you got from the street tune was a better a/f ratio. What is your vtec crossover set at? and what software are you using to tune?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by FST GSR 1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Your tuner sounds like a real genius.


Who built the motor? Who degreed the cams in?
</TD></TR></TABLE>

LMAO +1

OP, Your tuner, should be using a REAL Time tuning program, eCtune, Crome pro, Hondata, neptune something of this nature.

Your car is not tuned, infact if he kept removing the ecu my bet is, he wasn't adjusting the right ****, if you were closer, i'd tune your car for free to fix this little problem, you need to discover what cams you have first, and we should be able to give you some good advice from there, Get the complete setup before you go any futher.. into this progress.

If your willing to drive to baton rouge, i WILL street tune your car correctly for you.
****, if you make the drive, I'll help you Identify the parts on your car to the best of my ablitiy.. and such.

 

the cams are set to 0*/0* because i didnt take any v2v clearance readings. and we didnt wanna take any chances.

i was using s100, and idk if he modded the spark curve/timing. im not sure on the vtec cross over, but i believe its somewhere around 4500 +/-

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fatpride111 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the cams are set to 0*/0* because i didnt take any v2v clearance readings. and we didnt wanna take any chances.

i was using s100, and idk if he modded the spark curve/timing. im not sure on the vtec cross over, but i believe its somewhere around 4500 +/-</TD></TR></TABLE>
eww s100 isn't that outdated or something..
Crome pro or ectune is better...

 

arent you not supposed to run a gsr on anything less then 91 cause its 10.5:1:1 comp?


edit: stock redlines 8100 and my gsr is slow as ***** until about 6200 and it rips like its boosted up to 8500 now

 

so it should still rev past 7k no matter what? I took it around the block to find out what vtec was set at (45 btw) and it started smoking blue once it kicked in. I'll take it out again and see if I can rev past 7k, if not, then I'll take it back tommorrow and have them check it out.

Baton rouge is 7 hours away... I'd go in a heart beat if I had gas money but I'm broke as ****, and can't afford the gas

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fatpride111 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so it should still rev past 7k no matter what? I took it around the block to find out what vtec was set at (45 btw) and it started smoking blue once it kicked in. I'll take it out again and see if I can rev past 7k, if not, then I'll take it back tommorrow and have them check it out.

Baton rouge is 7 hours away... I'd go in a heart beat if I had gas money but I'm broke as ****, and can't afford the gas </TD></TR></TABLE>

Go to them, if they [freak] up again, bring it to me..

 

Do you have any CELs? Who rebuilt your motor. Sounds like they didn't do a very good job. If you are running a big cam 4500 is way to low. Sounds like you are having a variety of problems caused by multiple things. Including but not limited to your tune, cam timing, vtec cross over ect... Yes... GSR's should not run on 87... you really should follow the manufactures suggestions on that sort of stuff.

 

i just came back from test driving the car, and at 7,3k is when it STOPS like i hit a wall, and puffs out blueish smoke... which might be because one of the valve seals MIGHT be bad, not sure, but reguardless, i was accelerating slowly, vtec hit normaly and smoke started appearing.... 5500... 6500....7300 *BAM*, car just leans forward, and just about dies...

 

automotive machine and supply rebuilt my shortblock and did all the machining for me. between me, and some other guy rebuilt the head. i mainly did all the easy stuff like clean the valve, mill the head, and install the valve seals (i think i messed up the first one, which is why i think its leaking... MAYBE). whats normal vtec crossover? im hitting it at about 4500...my cam timing is set to 0*/0*, which should be fine, im assuming...

oh, and no CEL's.


Modified by fatpride111 at 3:24 PM 9/29/2008