Car: 91 dx hatch

So it's time to do the front brakes and i'm thinking of going with either

hawk pads/ stock rotors
hawk pads/ slotted rotors
or?

I was thinking about doing the slotted rotors but I wasn't sure if I would do more harm than good because of the small size of the rotors. I've ran slotted on other cars but the brakes were much larger.

discuss

 

What's going to be the purpose of the car? Daily driver? Track car? If it's a daily, I would go with Brembo blanks and Hawk pads .

 

I would agree.

I do enojoy some heel/ toe, up and down shifting way more than drag but i'm keeping the stock brake size to fit my 13" wheels for the front.

 

All in all i'm just wondering if I would be doing more harm than good getting slotted because of the small friction surface that i'm starting with.

I'm sure there are some guys on here that have experience with both.

 

some will argue, and post up references, that slotted and/or drilled do more harm than good. they'll probly chime in here. i'd personaly just go with the brembo blanks/ hawk pads (probly will too, lol) but do what you like.

 

raybestos ceramics for the sreet.

really all you need.


no need for slotted either. wont make a difference.

 

the real only purpose for slotted or drilled rotor is that they release hot gases from the pads contacting the rotor during braking. THAT IS THERE MAIN FUNCTION. yea they look nice gives the car a sporty look but u will never feel a difference unless that car sees the track on a regular basis.

 

This is true.

I'm not a fan of drilled rotors at all but I do like slotted for the function. The car does get driven hard so I might just go this route.

 

There is not function in slotted. Obviously you have you heart set on them because RED-ED and Tyson already gave you the correct answer and I agree 100% with them. Your not listening though.

Tyson has track experience not sure if Red does but they are correct. I have a track CRX for race course (closed circut...NOT STREET RACING) and I have had the drilled and slotted when I was young and stupid and you know what they did for stopping distance? NOTHING

 

hawk hp front and rears pads ive never had a prob. with them and they got great stopping power.

 

Your wrong.

You obviously don't comprehend what you read. I asked if anyone has personal experience with oem size slotted rotors. I asked if anyone had opinions about the slots being worth while because of the small friction surface that is there to start with. I plan on running blanks but I figured I would make a thread so people could discuss the subject.

I know what the function of slotted rotors, which you obviously don't as you stated above.I'm sorry that you actually paid money to buy drilled/slotted rotors.
I wouldn't run drilled rotors if they were given to me.

I participate in several sanctioned bodies and I do a lot of driving. I don't hype "driving" on the street but I do hit a back road once in while when it's late and nobody is around. The area I live in has a lot of land near by that is free of people, house and so on.

 

I'm running on a set of brembo max and bendix metal king pads for my setup.So far no complain as it's still doing great after heavy breaking during touge session.

 

I run brembo blanks with rebuilt calipers and Hawk HPS+ pads on the street and on a lot of mountain roads. I have the stock sized brakes on a 1990 hatch with rear drum. The HPS+ in my opinion are too aggressive for the type of driving that I do. I do a lot of late and corner braking and have run into lockup situations many times. I have a lot of seat time under me and I am thinking of backing down to the Hawk HPS pads. I have run slotted in the past (very past), and have never felt a difference.

Aside from the release of gasses the slotted rotors provide they also "scrub" the pad surface to minimize glazing.

If you drive on the street and do some hard driving every once in a while(even if it is track time) I would have to agree with TYSON and the rest who share his opinion.Go with a blank rotor and a mild brake pad.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Chris1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Your wrong.

You obviously don't comprehend what you read. I asked if anyone has personal experience with oem size slotted rotors. I asked if anyone had opinions about the slots being worth while because of the small friction surface that is there to start with. I plan on running blanks but I figured I would make a thread so people could discuss the subject.

I know what the function of slotted rotors, which you obviously don't as you stated above.I'm sorry that you actually paid money to buy drilled/slotted rotors.
I wouldn't run drilled rotors if they were given to me.

I participate in several sanctioned bodies and I do a lot of driving. I don't hype "driving" on the street but I do hit a back road once in while when it's late and nobody is around. The area I live in has a lot of land near by that is free of people, house and so on.</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Chris1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I wouldn't run drilled rotors if they were given to me.</TD></TR></TABLE>


same here ihave had crossed drilled rotors and they crack to easy.

 

I agree.

Blanks it is.

 

Hawk performance ceramic and Brembo blanks.

 

i love my OEM blanks along with Hawk pads.

i use ot have Brembo drilled and slotted, doesn't make any difference. waste of money, just the bling factor.

 

I have had horroble results with Hawk HPS pads. I tried them for a couple hundread miles and they wouldn't bite or stop the car. I was standing on the brake pedal and they just didn't stop the car! Many people run them and are happy with them but not me, just my personal experience.

I really like the Axxis metalmaster pads for street/Auto-X. Cheaper and bite really well. The crossdrilled rotors also help cool the rotor in between stops and minimize fade and work fine for normal use. They are okay as long as you dont use them for serious track duty. Cross drilled rotors come factory on many porsche/mercedes vehicles and they do serve a purpose, but they are structurally weaker.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by gringo7718 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> Cross drilled rotors come factory on many porsche/mercedes vehicles and they do serve a purpose</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes, bling. but seriously.... the amount of cooling recieved by drilling the rotors is negligible. i would rather have that area touching the brakepad. You will also notice that they have brake pads the size if bananas and 14-15 inch rotors minimum. If i had rotors that big i wouldnt see a problem hving a couple holes in them. I would just have a hard time looking at my ef jacked on 19 inch wheels.

I just answered this question on a local forum the other day. I suggested the brembo blanks with hawk pads and upgraded lines if it was going to see heavy use/abuse.

Who says you can't still get good helpful info on H-T???

 

I have had horroble results with Hawk HPS pads. I tried them for a couple hundread miles and they wouldn't bite or stop the car. I was standing on the brake pedal and they just didn't stop the car! Many people run them and are happy with them but not me, just my personal experience.

Were you getting them to the operating temperature that the pads were rated for?
A lot of people buy pads that they think they need and don't, drive the car and say that the pads suck because they don't realize you have to get the pads to the heat range they are designed for. Not saying you don't but i'm just asking.

 

You hit the nail on the head on this one.

This wasn't really a question but more of a thread to get knowledgeable people to discuss the topic.

I love threads like this.

 

The HPS are the High Performance Street compound, so they arent that aggressive(not the HP+). They were broken in properly, bedding the pads to brand new rotors, brakes bled, etc.

Cold they were not great but I would heat them up at Auto-X and agressive street driving and they never improved performance. Even to the point I could smell them burning and they never worked - they just didnt stop the car - So temperature range was not the problem. After my brakes failed to stop my car and I slid into and intersection at a red light, I removed them. My experience with Hawk pads was not good. I ordered another set of Axxis metalmasters and I have been happy ever since.

Crossdrilled rotors help dissipate heat and reduce fade. They also help wet weather braking. If you are running a really aggressive pad under harsh track conditions, you may break the rotor, but that does not change the fact that they do provide some degree of improved braking.


Modified by gringo7718 at 7:12 PM 9/28/2008

 

I run OEM blanks and OEM pads, Never been happier with the way the brakes perform. I autocross and HPDE the car too, at Miller Motorsports park......

Plus the oem pads never pre wear the rotor and they all wear evenly.

 

That's crazy. I've never heard of anyone really having any real complaints with the hawk pads. I suppose not to many people actually try different pads either. Most just hop the band wagon and call it a day. I will be looking into those metalmasters that your talking about. Any place that I could find some literature on them?

I agree with the drilled rotors for wet weather and the aid of brake fade for a street setup but I would rather run blanks or slotted rotors with a hot pad at the track and then toss the rotors when i'm done.