new tb new problems help!
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k so i just my 68mm tb on my car and it runs like ****, it run so much better with the stock tb. well its sticking, i think thats the butterfly, sometimes after i let of the gas and put it in nuertual it will stay a like 3grand and now when i went to start it, i wont keep an idle it stays at like 100 rpms and if i drop the clutch at all it dies, i messed with the idle screw and nothing, i even took the idle screw all the way. its like its not getting enough air? but it idled fine with the stock one. so i'm super confused, could it have something to do with the tps or what
anything helps
anything helps
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mod list (if it helps)
9.1 cp pistons
eagle rods
acl bearings
ported head
4 angle valve job
supertech valve train(retainers, springs, valves)
victor x i/m
stock exhaust
this is on a gsr motor and now my motor is built for boost but dose not have a turbo yet
9.1 cp pistons
eagle rods
acl bearings
ported head
4 angle valve job
supertech valve train(retainers, springs, valves)
victor x i/m
stock exhaust
this is on a gsr motor and now my motor is built for boost but dose not have a turbo yet
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so i put my stock one back on, since it was running like **** and now it starts but wont idle, it dies. so i'm guessing my tps is bad. but i'm not sure how to check the voltage of the tps sensor so if someone could explain, please and thank you
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Spody02 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so i put my stock one back on, since it was running like **** and now it starts but wont idle, it dies. so i'm guessing my tps is bad. but i'm not sure how to check the voltage of the tps sensor so if someone could explain, please and thank you </TD></TR></TABLE>

set voltimeter to volt dc
voltimeter red lead to signal wire
voltimeter black lead to ground
0.45v @ idle or close tb

set voltimeter to volt dc
voltimeter red lead to signal wire
voltimeter black lead to ground
0.45v @ idle or close tb
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 98vtec »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you dont check it with the engine running.
key to "on". The point to where the fuel pump primes</TD></TR></TABLE>
Just need to get power into the system. You measure the voltage when the throttle is closed and when you hold the throttle wide open. Should be something like .5V closed and 4.5V WOT. if, you aren't getting these readouts, then adjust the tps in either direction.
EDIT: I also recommend getting the 70mm professional products throttle body. It's perfect in every way. Never sticks or anything. Closest to OEM you could ever get. Got mine from member "chris" on HMT.
key to "on". The point to where the fuel pump primes</TD></TR></TABLE>
Just need to get power into the system. You measure the voltage when the throttle is closed and when you hold the throttle wide open. Should be something like .5V closed and 4.5V WOT. if, you aren't getting these readouts, then adjust the tps in either direction.EDIT: I also recommend getting the 70mm professional products throttle body. It's perfect in every way. Never sticks or anything. Closest to OEM you could ever get. Got mine from member "chris" on HMT.
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i have a pp buts its a 68mm, and it has done nothing but bring problems
i having problems with it sticking when it was on
but its been raining all today so i'm gonna test it tomorrow
I'll let you guys know what happens
i having problems with it sticking when it was on
but its been raining all today so i'm gonna test it tomorrow
I'll let you guys know what happens
PP TB's are top of the line, i run the'yre 68mm TB as well, very nice piece and no problems here, the problems for you were installation error, you didn't set your tps to begin with..
Its not your tps. Its your IACV. The IACV controlls air for idle. Make sure the gasket for the TB is not blocking the hole inside the TB. That TB is way to big for you currnet setup anyway. Even if your planning on going turbo, you can get better results using stock TB and upgrading somewhere else!!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by QuickDxEk »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Its not your tps. Its your IACV. The IACV controlls air for idle. Make sure the gasket for the TB is not blocking the hole inside the TB. That TB is way to big for you currnet setup anyway. Even if your planning on going turbo, you can get better results using stock TB and upgrading somewhere else!!</TD></TR></TABLE>
oh.. so anytime you take your tps off, and slap it back on, its always going to show the correct voltage to the ecu?
Damn i didn't know that.... f'n retard..
the tps is his problem.., he even said he didn't adjust his tps correctly..
oh.. so anytime you take your tps off, and slap it back on, its always going to show the correct voltage to the ecu?
Damn i didn't know that.... f'n retard..
the tps is his problem.., he even said he didn't adjust his tps correctly..
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so put the stock one back on, adjusted the tps sensor and got it to .45 at idle and 4.34 at WOT, and it still wont start, so i'm gonna go mess with 68mm one and see if i can get it to run with that
any ideas?
any ideas?
just for *****..
put the 68mm tb back on... set the tps volts to .54 and see if it starts.. dont worry about WOT, just set your regular volts
Turn the key on, but dont start the car.
Ground your volt meter, then hook your prog to the signal wire, and set the tps to .54.
Lemme know what happens.
put the 68mm tb back on... set the tps volts to .54 and see if it starts.. dont worry about WOT, just set your regular volts
Turn the key on, but dont start the car.
Ground your volt meter, then hook your prog to the signal wire, and set the tps to .54.
Lemme know what happens.
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ok so i put the 68mm on there and set it to .54, its starts up but has a really low idle, like 200rpms if that, i adjusted the idle screw and nothing, just 200 rpms
so now what? lol
so now what? lol
K.. What you need to do is, Get the car to keep running, obviously it runs fine on .54 volts but idles low..
Make sure the tps screws are in the tb, but not too tight to where you can move it back and forth, and now keep your volt meter on it, and move it back and forth until the idle is where you want it, You basically moving it from .45 to .54 volts you richen it up, so What you need to do is, maybe go back to .50 and see how that runs for you..
If it dies out, Set it up by 1, like .51,.52 until it stays running.. From there, Adjust your idle stop screw, which is under the spring throttle stop that opens the plate.
From there you should be good..
Make sure the tps screws are in the tb, but not too tight to where you can move it back and forth, and now keep your volt meter on it, and move it back and forth until the idle is where you want it, You basically moving it from .45 to .54 volts you richen it up, so What you need to do is, maybe go back to .50 and see how that runs for you..
If it dies out, Set it up by 1, like .51,.52 until it stays running.. From there, Adjust your idle stop screw, which is under the spring throttle stop that opens the plate.
From there you should be good..
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well integra type r guy thanks for all your help, i feel really really really dumb
i figured out the problem, if any one has put on a victor x i/m they know you have to make the wires longer for the IACV, well when i was driving one of those wirings came loose, so put that wire back in and it start right up
...wow all that work, and it was just a loose wire, i tho i looked over everything but i guess not, atleast i learned you have to adjust your tps thanks everyone
i figured out the problem, if any one has put on a victor x i/m they know you have to make the wires longer for the IACV, well when i was driving one of those wirings came loose, so put that wire back in and it start right up
...wow all that work, and it was just a loose wire, i tho i looked over everything but i guess not, atleast i learned you have to adjust your tps thanks everyone
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Spody02 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well integra type r guy thanks for all your help, i feel really really really dumb
i figured out the problem, if any one has put on a victor x i/m they know you have to make the wires longer for the IACV, well when i was driving one of those wirings came loose, so put that wire back in and it start right up
...wow all that work, and it was just a loose wire, i tho i looked over everything but i guess not, atleast i learned you have to adjust your tps thanks everyone
</TD></TR></TABLE>
i figured out the problem, if any one has put on a victor x i/m they know you have to make the wires longer for the IACV, well when i was driving one of those wirings came loose, so put that wire back in and it start right up
...wow all that work, and it was just a loose wire, i tho i looked over everything but i guess not, atleast i learned you have to adjust your tps thanks everyone
</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by IntegraType-R »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
oh.. so anytime you take your tps off, and slap it back on, its always going to show the correct voltage to the ecu?
Damn i didn't know that.... f'n retard..
the tps is his problem.., he even said he didn't adjust his tps correctly.. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Do you always talk down to people you dont know?
Be nice...We are all here to learn, help out, or be helped out
oh.. so anytime you take your tps off, and slap it back on, its always going to show the correct voltage to the ecu?
Damn i didn't know that.... f'n retard..
the tps is his problem.., he even said he didn't adjust his tps correctly.. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Do you always talk down to people you dont know?
Be nice...We are all here to learn, help out, or be helped out
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