Picked up a iequus Water temp gauge from oreilily's for pretty cheaped, figured i'd use it.
I went ahead with the oil plate adapter on the oil filer location so that i can later add my oil temp as well with easy.
Got it 50 bucks from lightningmotor sports thx to CC for the recommendation.


I've now moved on to the water temp gauge install, and after about 2 hours of searching i've seen some ratical installs.. but which??

1) Tapping the upper rad hose with a giant T fitting.
2) Tap the heater hose line that leads to the firewall

I'm trying to avoid tapping or drilling anything, the fitting i have with the temp sensor is a 3/8s fittin but i also have a two more bigger fittings this can screw in, i'm partion to buying the giant T for the upper rad hose, but which will be the best location any people having installed a water temp, just chime in and let me know.

 

Ideally, most convenient location I would think is remove the thermo fan switch.

Install a M18x1.5 to 3/8NPT fitting and be done.

Jump the fan switch, and your good to go.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pgpbubble &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Ideally, most convenient location I would think is remove the thermo fan switch.

Install a M18x1.5 to 3/8NPT fitting and be done.

Jump the fan switch, and your good to go.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Ideally maybe..
I'd like to keep everything stock as possible i do not like tapping or cutting anything that would keep my fans coming on at the correct temp or not..

Possible Ting off that fitting maybe, then i run into the problem of vibrations.. anyone else?

 

I plan on removing the plug where an ITR or 94-95 GSR normally has a coolant nipple for the oil cooler. It should be on the rear of the block, up and to the right of the oil filter. If the motor is still in the car, it may be hard to gain access to it though.

 

Thats not for water temp is it.. ? you mean your trying to tap into the water jacket?

 

I used a water feed nipple from the water neck on the head. I cut it off, drilled out the steel left over, taped it 1/8 npt for the sending unit.

It reads very hot in this position, fan comes on when guage ~210. I thought id would be best to read from the hottest spot in the system. I'll try to get a pic tonight.


Modified by Furyof4 at 12:26 PM 9/22/2008

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Furyof4 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I used a water feed nipple from the thermo housing. I cut it off, drilled out the steel left over, taped it 1/8 npt for the sending unit.

It reads very hot in this position, fan comes on when guage ~210. I thought id would be best to read from the hottest spot in the system. I'll try to get a pic tonight.</TD></TR></TABLE>

What i'm looking for is the best reading, ideally honda put they're themo on the head which i'm assuming it reads the most accurate. I Was going to T off the line going to my IACV that steams off the Top Rad hose going into the head, Where I'd assume i'd have the same temps.. What i probably will end up doing is T-ing off the Top radiator hose and doing it there.. It seems like the most likely and easiest..
Again i'm straying away from Drilling, tapping, and cutting anything stock..

 

If you look on the water neck on the head where the upper hose goes, there are two cast datum points used for machining. They should already be blind holes. There is over .750" of cast wall there. Thats the best place, and the cleanest.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by FST GSR 1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you look on the water neck on the head where the upper hose goes, there are two cast datum points used for machining. They should already be blind holes. There is over .750" of cast wall there. Thats the best place, and the cleanest. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Keep in mind the head is still on a running car.. Again i'm trying to avoid drilling anything although it would be the neatest, and cleanest installion probably.

 

Right...The water neck housing is removable.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by IntegraType-R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Again i'm straying away from Drilling, tapping, and cutting anything stock..</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

IACV coolant return + JB weld

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 98vtec &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">IACV coolant return + JB weld

</TD></TR></TABLE>
was an opition i'm glad someone else thought of it , as i have.. i was seriously thinking about thi slol.

 

You don't really want to just hack this in do you?

 

No, as i said, i'm not looking to drill or tap anything, i'm thinking about buying a big enough T fitting for the hose, i believe that will be the easiest and probably one of the most accurate places.
Alot of people have done this and have no problems, as long as everything is secure. I do Not want to alter the stock fan switch, or housing, this is a 3/8th nipple anyway which is twice the size of the stock sensor.
I was just getting some ideas...thats all.

 

I understand...T fittings are just another problem area IMO. 3/8" is pretty big for a temp feed line.

I have a brand new IACV plate off my new IACV valve, what if I weld another nipple on it for you or a 1/8" NPT boss to thead into? I don't run any lines besides the two radiator hoses.

 

drill and tap the water neck.

thats not something that will be detrimental to the car if it doesnt work. hell a new one is like $20 if you want to go back.

you never want to T off with more hoses than necessary or more hose clamps that you have to.

dont hack it. do it at the water neck

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RPRacing &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">drill and tap the water neck.

thats not something that will be detrimental to the car if it doesnt work. hell a new one is like $20 if you want to go back.

you never want to T off with more hoses than necessary or more hose clamps that you have to.

dont hack it. do it at the water neck</TD></TR></TABLE>
pic of proper placement?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by FST GSR 1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I understand...T fittings are just another problem area IMO. 3/8" is pretty big for a temp feed line.

I have a brand new IACV plate off my new IACV valve, what if I weld another nipple on it for you or a 1/8" NPT boss to thead into? I don't run any lines besides the two radiator hoses.</TD></TR></TABLE>

This isn't your average autometer gauge..
Its one i bought from oreilies i'll get pics when i get home but the sensor is huge.
Which is why i need alot of room i'll get pics tonight.

 

I wouldn't use that gauge. Again, use one of the Datum print points off the casting, depending on what year you have. The top blind hole has the most wall available. GL.

 

You can also use a inline water/ sensor fitting in the upper Rad hose. I think Jegs or Summit have them. Cut the hose, install. That would read the hottest water.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by IntegraType-R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Thats not for water temp is it.. ? you mean your trying to tap into the water jacket?</TD></TR></TABLE>

It's already tapped, it flows coolant for the oil cooler. I just removed the heater hose fitting and removed the oil cooler.
If your block didn't come with an oil cooler isn't there just a plug that you can remove or will you have to tap into the water jacket?
If not, Summit has the autometer T-fitting kit for like $30, you can use that on the heater core hose.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DonF &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You can also use a inline water/ sensor fitting in the upper Rad hose. I think Jegs or Summit have them. Cut the hose, install. That would read the hottest water.</TD></TR></TABLE>
This is what i'm going to do, alot of people have done this.
It gives the most accurate readings, its the easiest / quickest and will look decent.

 

http://www.iequus.com/download...B.pdf

Is the manuel to the gauge i bought.
It gives the measurements.
http://www.iequus.com they're performancer series is what i bought it was a great deal 20 bucks.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by IntegraType-R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
This is what i'm going to do, alot of people have done this.
It gives the most accurate readings, its the easiest / quickest and will look decent.</TD></TR></TABLE> I disagree, but at least you have a plan now. GL.