I was wondering how did it melt? Is it because its too close to the battery? I have so many questions...hope ya'll have an answer. Well here it goes.... What is the best fuse holder that wouldn't melt and would be water proof, so I've read that ANL fuse is good. If so is there a certain brand I should go with? What about a capactior? Do I need it to prevent it from melting again, if so which one is good/best? Now I think that fuse holder is too close to my battery...is there a way to move the fuse holder more towards my trunk? Now the spec that I have on my speakers is 3 10" kicker comps connected to 1600W Monoblock performance teknique amp for my lows. i also have a alpine amp connected to my highs. The problem is that I dont really remember which wires i used....but if I didn't have the right ones the guy who installed it wouldve let me know if it would work.







THANKS IN ADVANCE!!


3x
Kicker Comp 10"
# 10" 4-ohm subwoofer
# polymineral cone
# double-stitched foam surround
# suitable for free-air use
# power handling: 50-150 watts RMS
# peak power handling: 300 watts
# frequency response: 30-500 Hz
# sensitivity: 87.3 dB
# top-mount depth: 5-1/16"
# sealed box volume: 1.0 - 2.4 cu. ft.
# ported box volume: 1.25 - 1.75 cu. ft.

Connected to.....

http://www.millionbuy.com/pericbm780.html

# Max Output Power: 1600 Watts
# Power Output: 500 Watts @ 1 Ohm
# 450 Watts @ 2 Ohms
# 250 Watts @ 4 Ohms
# Variable Low Pass Filter: (35 Hz ~ 250 Hz) (24dB/Oct.)
# Variable Bass Boost: (0 ~ 18 dB) (40 ~ 120 Hz)
# Built-In Subsonic Filter: 15 Hz (12 dB/Oct.)
# Wired Bass Remote Control: 20ft
# Double Sided PCB
# 2 Gauge Power Terminal
# RCA Line Output
# Thermal, Overload, Short Circuit, and Reverse Polarity Protection
# Soft Delay Power On
# Power and Diagnostic LED Indicator

other amp is a alpine MRPF300

 

either your connection towards the battery came in contact with ground (before the fuse) or your wire isnt thick enough you should have 0/1 gauge running 2 amps especially a medium sized class d.

wiring your fuse too close to the battery would not cause that you're supposed to wire it as close as possible!!!! as a matter of fact did your connection some how come in contact with your battery bracket?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sr20hardbody &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

wiring your fuse too close to the battery would not cause that you're supposed to wire it as close as possible!!!!</TD></TR></TABLE>

exactly.

Another guess to why it melted is that there was some sort of resistance between the fuse and the fuse holder and that voltage drop caused it to heat up and melt it. with 2 amps running off of that one wire there would be a lot of current going through that resistance and would cause it to heat up. Just a thought.


Modified by imadigitalgod at 1:52 AM 9/21/2008

 

Is there a way to check the gauge on the wire?

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by imadigitalgod &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

exactly.

Another guess to why it melted is that there was some sort of resistance between the fuse and the fuse holder and that voltage drop caused it to heat up and melt it. with 2 amps running off of that one wire there would be a lot of current going through that resistance and would cause it to heat up. Just a thought.


Modified by imadigitalgod at 1:52 AM 9/21/2008</TD></TR></TABLE>

and what do u mean some sort of resistance on the fuse holder? So I guess your saying that i need 2 wires running to each amp? Will a capacitor work/ help?

 

i get this a lot at my work when we install cheap 4awg kits. what i have been doing is changing the fuse to a ANL and that has fixed the problem. most the time those cheap AGU holders just suck. just yesterday i had someone come back with 4awg(cheap really like 8wg) with a melted holder. and if i remember correctly she had a powerbass 400.2 and one of those cheap 4ohm blue pioneers.

 

Ok which ANL holders would be best?

 

Both imadigitalgod and doggworld1233 have it correct, the problem is the fuse and fuse holder, with the amount of current being drawn through the fuse and holder and the resistance of the fuse and holder, [because of their many connections and relatively high resistance of the AGU fuse itself] heat is produced, and it is extensional, heat = more resistance = more heat = more resistance and so on.
I also agree you need to replace the fuse with an ANL fuse, although I would go the extra step and add a second power cable.

Assuming the power cable you have now is a 4ga, run it directly to the sub amp and eliminate another "resistor", [splitter/distribution block] then add an 8ga for the Alpine amp, install ANL fused on both lines, 150A on the 4ga and 100A on the 8ga, use a basic "post" fuse holder... http://www.scosche.com/product...D/282 they do not have to be waterproof.

The fuse holders should be mounted as close to the batt. as possible, no more then 18" from it.
Ring terminals that are soldered to the power cables should be used at the batt. and input and output of the fuse holders, and any other place on the power and ground leads where possible.

A 1 farad cap installed as close to the sub amp as possible is also probably a good idea, it will help supply current to the sub amp at peak draw moments. 94