SLow B16, Details inside.. Input is appriciated..
Hi all,
I would like to ask you guys about the problem I am facing with my car, the car is ef3 with B16A (PR3) swap in it,
Specs
USDM B16A
Crowers Stg.2 Cam
Crower valve springs and titanium retainers.
SRR cam gears currently at +4 intake, +1 exhaust.
Single layer Oem Head gaskit.
2.25 ID pipe staright,
FGK 3” intake Muffler “ JASMA “
3 “ Shot ram intake
Tuned on Crome,
AFR is 12.5 to 13 in WOT.
Welded Diff..
NO A.c nor P.S
Weighs 1850 pounds
Ign timming is 18 degrees at idel
Cam gears are at I was running -+4in, -6 exh. I just changed it to +4 intake , -1 exhaust
I don’t have dyno available to fine tune my car cam gear setting a very small difference in top speed is there after altering with cam gears.
(+4in.-6exh) was to get the max overlap which will yield more hp in high RPMs a theory I red at Team-integra.
Spark plugs gapped to 0.049’(1.25mm)
Compression test.
I have 150 to 155 psi in all cylinders
Tyres are Yokohama AVS ES100 (205/55/15)
Added oil
Compression raised to 250,200,210,220(long time since I rechecked I cant remember the proper result but there was gain every cylinder after adding oil.)
In other words the compression raised in every cylinder after adding oil.
I only use this car for Racing ..
Currently I am reving till 9k, car don’t smoke, nor any thing else, starts up fine,
No Heating problem at all…
But the car is not running the way it should have to be, at ¼ mile car meter is hitting 150 km/h max, I am fast among b16 in the area but that’s just weight.
In third gear the pull gets very laggy , 1st and second are good I must say that,
I raced k42a4 with 5 speed tranny, he was dead equal with me at ¼ aftet it he was ½ car a head but I know I am faster, had a problem shifting the gear
Video
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GyUBGRltdJY
Me vs Fastest d16 in 96 civic vti
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_YDRGgRmX3I
me vs 250zxr kavasaki
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yggDB8HgdrQ
your inputs are more then welcome…
Thanks..
Salman
I would like to ask you guys about the problem I am facing with my car, the car is ef3 with B16A (PR3) swap in it,
Specs
USDM B16A
Crowers Stg.2 Cam
Crower valve springs and titanium retainers.
SRR cam gears currently at +4 intake, +1 exhaust.
Single layer Oem Head gaskit.
2.25 ID pipe staright,
FGK 3” intake Muffler “ JASMA “
3 “ Shot ram intake
Tuned on Crome,
AFR is 12.5 to 13 in WOT.
Welded Diff..
NO A.c nor P.S
Weighs 1850 pounds
Ign timming is 18 degrees at idel
Cam gears are at I was running -+4in, -6 exh. I just changed it to +4 intake , -1 exhaust
I don’t have dyno available to fine tune my car cam gear setting a very small difference in top speed is there after altering with cam gears.
(+4in.-6exh) was to get the max overlap which will yield more hp in high RPMs a theory I red at Team-integra.
Spark plugs gapped to 0.049’(1.25mm)
Compression test.
I have 150 to 155 psi in all cylinders
Tyres are Yokohama AVS ES100 (205/55/15)
Added oil
Compression raised to 250,200,210,220(long time since I rechecked I cant remember the proper result but there was gain every cylinder after adding oil.)
In other words the compression raised in every cylinder after adding oil.
I only use this car for Racing ..
Currently I am reving till 9k, car don’t smoke, nor any thing else, starts up fine,
No Heating problem at all…
But the car is not running the way it should have to be, at ¼ mile car meter is hitting 150 km/h max, I am fast among b16 in the area but that’s just weight.
In third gear the pull gets very laggy , 1st and second are good I must say that,
I raced k42a4 with 5 speed tranny, he was dead equal with me at ¼ aftet it he was ½ car a head but I know I am faster, had a problem shifting the gear
Video
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GyUBGRltdJY
Me vs Fastest d16 in 96 civic vti
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_YDRGgRmX3I
me vs 250zxr kavasaki
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yggDB8HgdrQ
your inputs are more then welcome…
Thanks..
Salman
my car is tuned through sending my car spec to a tunner and getting the Map for it, then with wide band i corected the whole maps AFR...
we dont have Dyno...in our locality
we dont have Dyno...in our locality
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by zccr-xsi »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what where your air/fuel readings in wot??</TD></TR></TABLE>
12.8 to 13.2 AFR@WOT
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 89s1 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what transmission is it?
No CELs?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Nah no engine check.
tranny is S1
12.8 to 13.2 AFR@WOT
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 89s1 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what transmission is it?
No CELs?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Nah no engine check.
tranny is S1
Trending Topics
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by salman »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
12.8 to 13.2 AFR@WOT
</TD></TR></TABLE>
u got a logger??
12.8 to 13.2 AFR@WOT
</TD></TR></TABLE>
u got a logger??
Honda-Tech Member

Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 5,957
Likes: 0
From: nothing is real unless it is observed
Sounds to me like your rings are shot from the compression numbers and the after results with oil. And your guessing at your cam gear settings may be hurting you quite a bit. Try making yourself a cheap cam degree fixture and setting them to spec. they were designed to work best this way, although not the best in every application it would be the best without aid of dyno.
The car is laggy on top end due to it falling out of its effective powerband. What type of racing are you involved with?
The car is laggy on top end due to it falling out of its effective powerband. What type of racing are you involved with?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Natural Aspirations »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Try making yourself a cheap cam degree fixture and setting them to spec. they were designed to work best this way,
</TD></TR></TABLE>
HOW to do that.
Car is only used for drag racing.
1/4 mile Ends at 3rd gear@9k rpm . 147to 150 km/h
</TD></TR></TABLE>
HOW to do that.
Car is only used for drag racing.
1/4 mile Ends at 3rd gear@9k rpm . 147to 150 km/h
That's really low compression results for a b16a... An engine w/ that comp ratio should be upwards of 170. For example a healthy LS will blow 170 psi across the board. And your numbers are scattered when you add oil... You've got a !50 psi difference from highest to lowest! Do an in car rebuild, a quick hone 240g stones, then a bead hone, new rings maybe some taller pistons while your at it, new rod bearings if need be and call it a day. If it's a track only car I'd prefer to re-use the factory rod bearings as long as there's no copper showing (of course keeping them in their original places).
I don't trust them, as cheap as it is for genuine Honda... cheap insurance the way I see it. Just think of it like this, you burnt up your factory rings, why go with a lower quality version this time around? Here, I just found them for $27 per piston...
http://www.hondapartsdeals.com just look it up for a 99 civic Si, engine, crankshaft/piston
BTW, I've heard good things about Honda... never heard of TP
Modified by AK_CRX at 9:16 AM 9/19/2008
http://www.hondapartsdeals.com just look it up for a 99 civic Si, engine, crankshaft/piston
BTW, I've heard good things about Honda... never heard of TP
Modified by AK_CRX at 9:16 AM 9/19/2008
are you in pakistain? hum. did you do your compression check with the throttle open? so gauges just read low, i would use a leakdown test.
i would start by zeroing out the cams, and working on the timing. maybe make sure your timing is synced dizzy with the ecu.
i would start by zeroing out the cams, and working on the timing. maybe make sure your timing is synced dizzy with the ecu.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by abnaasefmb »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">are you in pakistain? hum. did you do your compression check with the throttle open? so gauges just read low, i would use a leakdown test.
i would start by zeroing out the cams, and working on the timing. maybe make sure your timing is synced dizzy with the ecu. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Yup, I know a little about honda'z,
Comp test
WOT
Injector DC
ECU dc
Leak test, Dont have the guage, but will try find it.
I bought this long block 4 months from an engine importer here, this is Completely stock, Seal block is what the grantee he gave me...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by goforbroke »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Stock bottom end?</TD></TR></TABLE>
YES!
Took out the cam gears today and installed the stock, still not completed,
may be tomorrow..
i would start by zeroing out the cams, and working on the timing. maybe make sure your timing is synced dizzy with the ecu. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Yup, I know a little about honda'z,
Comp test
WOT
Injector DC
ECU dc
Leak test, Dont have the guage, but will try find it.
I bought this long block 4 months from an engine importer here, this is Completely stock, Seal block is what the grantee he gave me...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by goforbroke »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Stock bottom end?</TD></TR></TABLE>
YES!
Took out the cam gears today and installed the stock, still not completed,
may be tomorrow..
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by goforbroke »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Your bottom end appears like it needs a rebuild.</TD></TR></TABLE>
All i can do right now is to add rings.. Would that be enough??
1/4 in 3 gears@ 14* km/h..
this is killing me,
Should i open the engine ?? and take out the pistons...
I mean is it final that its Rings problem???
All i can do right now is to add rings.. Would that be enough??
1/4 in 3 gears@ 14* km/h..
this is killing me,
Should i open the engine ?? and take out the pistons...
I mean is it final that its Rings problem???
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Natural Aspirations »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">finish what your doing with the gears. Any smoke or oil use?</TD></TR></TABLE>
thats what i will do tomorrow after work..
No smoke, no oil use,
will also check compression tomorrow...
thats what i will do tomorrow after work..
No smoke, no oil use,
will also check compression tomorrow...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by gearhead16 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">try putting ur gears on 0 and see if it gets better but you really need it tuned and possibly rings because of the jump in comp from oil</TD></TR></TABLE>
Just courious, If the rings are ok, even by adding oil to cylinders the compression will not bump ??
Just courious, If the rings are ok, even by adding oil to cylinders the compression will not bump ??
yes, oil doesnt compress extremely well, compresion would go up either way.
With an S1 tranny and ending the 1/4 in the top of 3rd you've definatly got an ls tranny on there, and that will hurt the acceleration a litte bit.
With an S1 tranny and ending the 1/4 in the top of 3rd you've definatly got an ls tranny on there, and that will hurt the acceleration a litte bit.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 89s1 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
With an S1 tranny and ending the 1/4 in the top of 3rd you've definatly got an ls tranny on there, and that will hurt the acceleration a litte bit.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Is there any way to confurm that, the sticker on the tranny say S1,
With an S1 tranny and ending the 1/4 in the top of 3rd you've definatly got an ls tranny on there, and that will hurt the acceleration a litte bit.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Is there any way to confurm that, the sticker on the tranny say S1,


