Just wanted to know if i would be able to run these spec without a camber kit. and how bad is the tire wear on these setting? i understand that camber setting is not the main cause of tire wear but how long do you guys last? Also does having this high negative camber put alot of stress on other parts?

 

Im running that on my S2k on falken azenie RT 615s. I get about 10k out of the rear tires. The front last longer. And yes you can run those settings without a camber kit.

 

if you don't mind can you tell me your offset for your rear rims?

 

stock ap1 rims runing that setting tires lasted around 10k Toyo Proxy 4s

 

you're running that much camber dave? those things are probably sunken in like battleships haha

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Type_D &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Just wanted to know if i would be able to run these spec without a camber kit. and how bad is the tire wear on these setting? i understand that camber setting is not the main cause of tire wear but how long do you guys last? Also does having this high negative camber put alot of stress on other parts?</TD></TR></TABLE>

The tire wear may be noticeable depending on how you drive it. Also, AP1s will generally show more wear because they use more toe in in the rear.

You failed to mention anything about your car....

My first question is why are you thinking about running -3.5 deg of camber?

Do you track this car at all? I'm going to guess this is being done for wheel fitment or the ability to ride hard parked.

It will put more stress on your upper ball joints. I'm not sure how much shorter the lifespan of your upper ball joints will be, but it will be shorter than normal.

I'm running -2.5 front and -3 rear with 225/45/17s and 255/40/17s. 17X7.5,17X9 +45 all the way around. Front fenders have the little tabs for the liners folded in, and the rear fenders have the lip folded in adn the bumper screw relocated. No rubbing issues ever. I've been to the track and driven it as hard as possible. Never rubbed.

 

Thank you B serious. YOu basically answered my question lol. It was due to fitment issues. Everytime i drive the car hard it would always rub the rear. The front are the safe offset the rear i have agressive offset. I see that yours is +45. I have +44 at the rear. Im not sure if different rims play a different role in offset but yea. but i dunno i still think -3.5 is to much. did you ever try -2 or -2.5 with rolled fender + bolt relocate? does it still rub?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Type_D &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Thank you B serious. YOu basically answered my question lol. It was due to fitment issues. Everytime i drive the car hard it would always rub the rear. The front are the safe offset the rear i have agressive offset. I see that yours is +45. I have +44 at the rear. Im not sure if different rims play a different role in offset but yea. but i dunno i still think -3.5 is to much. did you ever try -2 or -2.5 with rolled fender + bolt relocate? does it still rub?</TD></TR></TABLE>

What width are your wheels? What tire size? How low is your car? What is it lowered on? What year is your car? Type as many details as possible. help me help you.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Type_D &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Thank you B serious. YOu basically answered my question lol. It was due to fitment issues. Everytime i drive the car hard it would always rub the rear. The front are the safe offset the rear i have agressive offset. I see that yours is +45. I have +44 at the rear. Im not sure if different rims play a different role in offset but yea. but i dunno i still think -3.5 is to much. did you ever try -2 or -2.5 with rolled fender + bolt relocate? does it still rub?</TD></TR></TABLE>

when i first lowered my s2k i had 2.5 degrees in the rear, it rubbed on just about every bump . with 3.25 degrees it only rubs on the rear bumper bolt on big dips/bumps. btw i have a 17x9 +40 with 255/40-17 tires

 

Chris, Do you think i'll be able to get away with -2.5 or even 3? I don't really want to go more than -3 rear camber. You have +40 and i have +47 think i can get away with it with -2.5 or -2.75?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Chris. &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

when i first lowered my s2k i had 2.5 degrees in the rear, it rubbed on just about every bump . with 3.25 degrees it only rubs on the rear bumper bolt on big dips/bumps. btw i have a 17x9 +40 with 255/40-17 tires</TD></TR></TABLE>

That is an easy fit

If you haven't done so already, roll your rear 1/4's flat. Relocate your rear bumper bolt, and cut a piece out of your rear bumper lip.

You are rubbing on the rear bumper bolt and rear bumper guaranteed.

With the -3.25, you will clear night and day if you just do the things above

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by - BSeRiouS - &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you haven't done so already, roll your rear 1/4's flat. Relocate your rear bumper bolt, and cut a piece out of your rear bumper lip.

You are rubbing on the rear bumper bolt and rear bumper guaranteed.

With the -3.25, you will clear night and day if you just do the things above </TD></TR></TABLE>

rear 1/4 are rolled flat. all i rub on is the bolt and the part of the bumper if i pull into a steep driveway. do you have a picture of where you mounted your bumper bolt & where you cut?

 

Yea, I'm curious on what you have to do to move that bolt.

In for pics.

 

yeah I did a DIY a while ago. https://honda-tech.com/zero...age=2

Look on the 2nd page. There are some pics. It's very short and self explanatory. Look for yourself and you'll see it's SOOOOO obvious.

 

Only bitches run less than 90 degrees of negative camber!

 

-3.5 rear... which is nothing compared to people like IIGQ4U running -5. I cleared 9.5 +35 in back when I test fitted some other RG1's. My 1/4 was shaved and then pulled.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B serious &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yeah I did a DIY a while ago. https://honda-tech.com/zero...age=2

Look on the 2nd page. There are some pics. It's very short and self explanatory. Look for yourself and you'll see it's SOOOOO obvious.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Gotcha thx. I think that is what mine is rubbing on too.

Only on bumps/etc though. I'll get some camber and go from there.

Sidenote: How do you know how much to run f/r?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ExVtec &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Sidenote: How do you know how much to run f/r?

</TD></TR></TABLE>

Depends on what you want to do. I just test out which angles work the best for me at track events.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B serious &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Depends on what you want to do. I just test out which angles work the best for me at track events. </TD></TR></TABLE>

So basically you are saying take it to an alignment shop, get aligned.

Track day.

Take it to an alignment shop, get aligned.

Track day

Take it to an alignment shop, get aligned.

That would take forever to find the right combo.

This car is mainly street driven, with some spirited back roads.

Like to try out an auto-x, do drag and perhaps even a road course this coming year.

 

it's recommended that you keep a -1 degree camber stagger between front and rear.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ExVtec &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

So basically you are saying take it to an alignment shop, get aligned.

Track day.

Take it to an alignment shop, get aligned.

Track day

Take it to an alignment shop, get aligned.

That would take forever to find the right combo.

This car is mainly street driven, with some spirited back roads.

Like to try out an auto-x, do drag and perhaps even a road course this coming year.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

Well you kind of make an educated guess as to what angles will work. From my experience, I tried a setting that was close. Then I went back to the track with a setting that I thought would be better. It's probably as good as it's going to get. The setup that I'm running currently has made me very happy and after experience from past setups, I don't think there's too much room for improvement in alignment angles with my mods and driving style.

I've had 4 different setups. Stock being one of them. This is over 11 or so track days. Since mine sees an average of 1 track day every 1k miles, trying new setups really isn't a big issue.

It depends on a lot of other things. I play around with toe angles as well.

It depends on wheel and tire sizes, spring rates, etc. etc. etc. It depends on about 1 billion things. Driving style being a big factor.

Go to the track with the car stock or as is. Then come back and post up what kind of behavior the car was exhibiting.

Example: It's over steering. One solution may be to add a little toe in the rear.

Camber is fairly easy. Go to the track with the car as is and drive it as hard as you can. Then look at the edges of your tires. If you're using the whole tire without rolling it over onto the sidewall, your camber angle is probably good. If you've got a part of the tire that isn't scuffed out or looks like it really hasn't been touching the road, you've got too much camber or you're not driving it fast enough.

You do have to go back to an alignment shop to change things, however. Every angle will change when one angle changes. Get a lifetime alignment. Get to know your alignment guy. Talk him through the alignment, tell him what angles you want, and make sure he does everything right. Obviously knowing what angles you want takes some understanding of how suspension dynamics work.

I'm not saying I'm an expert by any means. Not even close. I just know a good setup when I drive one, that's all.

 

Thanks.