I am having some serious clutch issues and was hoping someone on here might have some insight. A couple of weeks ago my act disk clutch with xtreme pressure plate started slipping. Its been in my car for quite some time so I figured it was just worn out. I ordered a new competition stage 4 clutch setup and put it in the car. When i pulled the old clutch out the flywheel looked like it had quite a bit of hotspots. I sanded it down good and hoped it would do alright without getting it resurfaced. Unfortunately it seems to have not worked and my brand new clutch was slipping bad right at the first pull I made. So I went ahead and installed a brand new competition flywheel this morning hoping that would clear all of my problems. Unfortunately it didn't and it was slipping again almost right away . Do you think its possible my new clutch disk got glazed over from the original flywheel so bad that now its slipping with a brand new flywheel?

This is on a sohc making probably in the 3-350whp range. I'm pretty sure this clutch shouldn't have any problems with it.

 

what kind of clutch disk is it? ceramic or full face oragnic material?

are you sure the clutch is fully dissengaging? is that clutch rated for the ammount of power you are making?

 

cable trans ?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by non-VTEC &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what kind of clutch disk is it? ceramic or full face oragnic material?

are you sure the clutch is fully dissengaging? is that clutch rated for the ammount of power you are making?

</TD></TR></TABLE>
its a 6 puck. The clutch should easily be able to hold the power, and it seems to be fully disengaging.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DaveF &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">cable trans ?</TD></TR></TABLE>
its hydro

 

I doubt it got glazed over, those ceramic clutches should start holding again once they cool down if they slip. Mine (comp clutch 6 puck) has NEVER slipped on me, but a buddy has an Ebay clutch and he slipped it bad and it overheated, slippin gin all gears down the track. but after letting it cool he was able to trap 114mph on the next run so it was holding. This was also a 6 puck ceramic clutch.
does it slip bad? in all gears? Was the rear main seal or input shaft seal leaking at all?

It sucks you have to pull the transmission out again. I feel your pain. But check to make sure the clutch is fully disengaged.

 

it slips bad in all gears...mainly the worst in higher gears obviously. I dont have any leaking seals either.

I dont see how it wouldn't be fully disengaged because I can push the slave cylinder in by hand when the clutch pedal is let out so it couldn't be putting hardly any pressure on the fork.

 

bump anymore ideas?

 

did you get the flywheel turned?

if not do it youll thank me later

 

are you sure the disk fit properly on the splines of the trans. ive seen some discs that had alot of slop.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LA_HONDAS &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">did you get the flywheel turned?

if not do it youll thank me later</TD></TR></TABLE>
the flywheel i just put in there is brand new

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DaveF &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">are you sure the disk fit properly on the splines of the trans. ive seen some discs that had alot of slop. </TD></TR></TABLE>
I didn't really check honestly. I'll check when it comes out next time.

 

sux dude, what did you use to sand it with?
was the clutch alittle smooth/shinny when u changed the flywheel?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 95dxsir2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">sux dude, what did you use to sand it with?
was the clutch alittle smooth/shinny when u changed the flywheel?</TD></TR></TABLE>
yes the clutch pads were a bit smooth.

 

should try and scuff em up

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 95dxsir2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what did you use to sand it with?</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

I don't know how much validity this holds, but I think you're supposed to "break it in" for 500 miles first.

Did you clean off the flywheel with some brake-kleen before installing it? Oftentimes flywheels, like rotors, are shipped with a film on them to prevent rust.

 

Brand new or not, scuffing the flywheel might be enough to throw it off. If you have to pull the tranny again, spend the $15 to get the FW resurfaced. As was mentioned the break-in might be an issue as well.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tippyman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I don't know how much validity this holds, but I think you're supposed to "break it in" for 500 miles first.

Did you clean off the flywheel with some brake-kleen before installing it? Oftentimes flywheels, like rotors, are shipped with a film on them to prevent rust.</TD></TR></TABLE>
i've only really ever had to break in full faced clutches. Even so I still put about 100 miles on this one before getting down on it. Also yes the film was cleaned off.

 

You need to start with completely flat surfaces and the disc has to seat to the friction surfaces. Until it is broken in, not all of the disc pads will be making contact. If you did not have it surfaced, you are not getting a full clamp on it. All clutches need some break in. Sometimes you can get away with slipping it pretty hard a few times on metallic discs, but if you are close to the capacity of the clutch, it will have to be fully seated to get the most out of it. D series clutches are so small that they don't hold much power. I would say you need to surface the flywheel and give it some breakin time and you should be fine.
Where is the pedal when the clutch engauges(grabs)? If it is to high, it could be partially disengauged with the clutch pedal out.

 

I'm sure you would have caught this with the flywheel off, but just throwing it out there: rear main seal OK?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by turbotypeR@SPEC &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You need to start with completely flat surfaces and the disc has to seat to the friction surfaces. Until it is broken in, not all of the disc pads will be making contact. If you did not have it surfaced, you are not getting a full clamp on it. All clutches need some break in. Sometimes you can get away with slipping it pretty hard a few times on metallic discs, but if you are close to the capacity of the clutch, it will have to be fully seated to get the most out of it. D series clutches are so small that they don't hold much power. I would say you need to surface the flywheel and give it some breakin time and you should be fine.
Where is the pedal when the clutch engauges(grabs)? If it is to high, it could be partially disengauged with the clutch pedal out. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Shouldn't it have been fine once I put the brand new flywheel in? True the d series clutch wont hold as much as the b series, but i would expect a competition stage 4 to at least hold for one or two passes on a low 300whp setup. The pedal actually engages pretty low so i think that should be fine.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tippyman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm sure you would have caught this with the flywheel off, but just throwing it out there: rear main seal OK?</TD></TR></TABLE>
yep no leaks

 

You should definitely do a break in period. This puts an even surface on the disc. Which allows for full surface grab.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SOHC_MShue &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Shouldn't it have been fine once I put the brand new flywheel in? True the d series clutch wont hold as much as the b series, but i would expect a competition stage 4 to at least hold for one or two passes on a low 300whp setup. The pedal actually engages pretty low so i think that should be fine. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Man, I'm sorry. I must have overlooked the new flywheel in the original post. My bad.
I am not sure what their torque capacity is, but I hope it would hold that much power. You do need to give it some breakin time. Since you ran it on a non flat flywheel at first, it may take a little extra breakin.

 

yea i'll try putting some miles on it i guess before I pull the tranny. Maybe it will start to grab once everything gets worn even again.

 

I never did a break in on my 6 puck clutch and its holding great.