I've adjusted the valves a few times on my H22A1. I was planning to do so again very soon, but wanted to find out what specs others adjust them to. I know that intake specs are .006-.007 and exhaust specs are .007-.008, but with those ranges should I try for the high end or low end? or does that even matter as long as it's between the ranges?

I pretty much want to quiet down my valves as much as possible without putting my engine at risk or losing performance. I know this engine just has loud valves by nature but I'd like to try to minimize it if I can.

Thanks


[Modified by BryanS, 5:59 PM 7/25/2002]

 

Adjust them to the "tight" spec....meaing .006 on intake and .007 on the exhaust. This will be most beneficial for quiestness and power.

 

thanks... what's the danger of going tighter than that spec? I figure that there are specs for a reason, but didn't know if going down to .005 was dangerous or anything like that?

 

"As valve clearance increases the valves tap more. The Honda spec is rather loose and adjusting to it will generate the typical Honda "tick." You can safely shave .002" off the Honda spec. On the 96+, going tighter will yield a check engine light.

Having valves too tight will yield low compression as they will not close all the way, drastically reducing power. Too loose and you can burn valves by running to little duration and decreasing flow through the head."

Quoted from marcucci of Preludeonline.com

 

so I could safely go .004 on intake and .005 on exhaust?


[Modified by BryanS, 7:52 PM 7/26/2002]

 

I would only go .001 lower personally. I wouldnt want to risk going to tight.

 

I went .005 on the intake and .006 on the exhaust (.001 under the min specs) and it quieted down my valvetrain nicely. Every time I adjust them I kick myself for not dropping $40 or whatever on the tool to do it... it's such a pain to do with a screw driver and torque wrench/ratchet. thanks for the advice

 

Yeah I'm going to try those specs next time around too. The Snap-on tool kicks ***, you should get one

 

where can i pick one of those up at?

edit: nevermind i found it....here it is for you guys that are also looking for it...

cheap one: <A HREF="http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=45113
" TARGET="_blank">http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=45113
</a>

high quality version: http://buy.snapon.com/catalog/search...e=snapon-store


[Modified by 4bidden, 12:22 PM 7/29/2002]

 

Heck I was lazy I just tighten em both to .007 with the feeler..

Oh yeah big cation don't wrench down those valve cover nuts, they only need around 16lbs of torque or something weak like that.

 

how do you actually do a walve adjustment?

 

it's a bit complicated to cover like this, but basically (on a VTEC at least) you pull off the valve cover, set piston 1 to TDC use a feeler gauge to measure the space between the camshaft and rocker arm(I think that's what it's called), then use a special tool (or a torque wrench or ratchet and screwdriver) to adjust that space to where you want it... factory specs are .006-.007 for intake and .007-.008 on exhaust for the VTEC. Once you do that cylinder you put another cylinder on TDC and adjust those valves... etc. I got it out of a crappy Chilton's manual that I got off Ebay for $4.00

 

not to sound too ignorant but what is TDC?

 

Top dead center... you can tell when different pistons are at TDC by looking at markings on the cam gears... for example when piston 1 is at TDC the arrows on the cam gears point straight up and there are lines on the gears that will line up with eachother. As you rotate the engine to put other pistons at TDC the cam gears rotate and the markings will indicate when you are "there"

 

thanks. I'll give this a shot tonight. My engine sounds like a tractor the valves are so bad.

 

I'd try to search out more detailed instructions than what I gave above... I have done it 4 times or so and it took me almost 3 hours to do it all from beginning to end.

As far as tools, you will need at a minimum a flathead screwdriver, metric socket set, flat screw driver, and feeler gauges in the .005 to .008 range. I wouldn't do it without my torque wrench and I think I'm gonna invest in a special tool to make it easier before I do it again... that tool was mentioned above.

 

this might explain it a little better

http://www.jpprelude.hondapowered.co...adjustment.htm