i bought my first EF around mid june of this year, i went to emmissions and failed. my hydrocarbons were triple what they should be. so i did some maintence work, new plugs, cap, rotor, things of that sort. took it back and failed again.

i figured it wasnt getting spark, plus it kept dying, took my alt off and went to autozone to get it tested, it failed so i bought a new one, put it in along with some seafoam. then i got it retested at emmissions and failed again. i went home and did a compression test, all seemed well til i got to the number 3 cylinder and the compression read.....0. i took off the head and discovered a exhaust valve that was pretty much half gone [it was chipped like a mo fo] so i replaced that and cleaned my head like all get out. i had 150-160psi all across the board, put on a new exhuast from the cat back at USA muffler, replaced the o2 sensor, fuel filter, and ran some more seafoam threw it for good measure. took it back today, worse then ever.

i really dont know where to go from here guys. the idle loops up and down once it gets up to temperature. and when i hold it at about a 2k idle my check engine light comes on. any input would be much appreciated guys cause im seriously at a brick wall.......with a fat guy standing in front of it....telling me i suck.....oh by the way the motor is just the stock d15b2, no mods done to it, however i did buy it off a ricey kid from teh hood who had a fart can on it.

 

When the CEL comes on it stores a code. Just jumper the service connector with the key in the on position with the motor not running. The CEL will blink when you have done this correctly, or the LED on the ecu will blink.

Look for long blinks and short blinks. long blinks are 10, short ones are 1's

Once you have the code number get back to us and we can give you more info. I suspect a eld code.

I was having a problem with my battery connectors just the other day, first it would not start. Then once it was warm the idle started to bounce.

I got a new positive connector and cleaned the stripped wires and clamped them down and tada fixed.

So check or should I say clean the battery connectors and check the grounds where they attached. That might fix that part.

Now for the emissions, Is there an O2 reading on the tests? what are the numbers? See if you can scan a test report for us to see too.

 

ok i went and check my code. when i turned it on the on position it did 2 blinks with long pauses in between then it did 16 quick blinks.


the battery connections are fine, i forgot to mention that i replaced them....actually come to think of it i only replaced one....ill have to check into replaced the other one for the 2.00 it would cost lol.

ill scan a picture of my result a little later, im having my friend scan it at his house tonight...

 

ok, 2 is for oxygen content and 16 is for injectors.

So lets ohm out the injectors they should be between 23 and 28 ohms first.

then we will go to checking the seals and such...

 

and also the engine timing!!my timing was off because I forgot to jump the connector inside the car before setting it. Made a world of difference.

 

my timing is spot on, had it checked by a mechanic, i thought the same thing.


ill get on the injectors tomorrow becasue i dont have a meter to measure the ohms, ill get on tomorrow after work, thanks for the quick responses guys!

 

For you up and down idle, take off your fitv and tighten the inside.