I have a d16z6 with d16a1 aka p29 pistons in it... Stock head Skunk2 IM, Short ram, z6 4-2-1 header w/ 2.5" catback... My question is with my stock p28 can i start it up with no worries of it running too lean or will it detonate... I will be getting it tuned in a couple of days i was just curious to if i can crank it over... Thanks

 

Hears a lil Teaser

 

 

Bump I need a answer

 

You should be ok to start the engine & run it as long as you have a wideband monitoring the a/f ratios. I would simply retard the distributor timing to 10-12 deg btdc for base timing.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mtber &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You should be ok to start the engine & run it as long as you have a wideband monitoring the a/f ratios. I would simply retard the distributor timing to 10-12 deg btdc for base timing.</TD></TR></TABLE>

X2

 

thanks for the comments im getting a base map in the mail tomorrow.... so ill wait till then and not take any chances... if it dosent show up ill try n start it...

 

incase anybody was wondering you can start a p29 z6 build with a stock p28 and let it idle... safely

 

it made 128 whp and 99 ft lbs of tq... ran a 14.96 @89.6 mph in a eg hatch and just blew between 250-260 accross the board... everything seated fine

 

this thing is pimp.

 

sweet *** numbers man. sweet *** build too. more pics would be killer.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SinglecamMitch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have a d16z6 with d16a1 aka p29 pistons in it...</TD></TR></TABLE>

I´m interested in doing the same setup in my Z6, but are the P29 pistons plug&play? If so what rods/sleeves and other parts should I use? Are you using OEM P29 Pistons, or some other brand?

Can anyone give me a clue about what should I do?

Thanks

 

i just got a piston kit off ebay and reused the stock rods... Get std bore if u wanna just hone the block and have it "plug n play" its a very cheap and effective setup and ill post some pics in a lil

 

are there any other rod options that could improve upon this setup?

 

stock rods hold to 200+ whp no need to upgrade just adding weight to the stroke if you do...

 

I´m waiting for the pic´s and some more info...do you use your ride in a daily basis?

 

Still waiting...

 

hey if your still wondering i am very happy to say that it is daily driven and this is a great build to do if cost is a problem. The only down fall i could think of is the price of gas for 93 but is going down so its all good

 

Nice build but never mind putting up pics of your engine build here. That's for the All Motor forum. Put up some of your stock ecu, running the 12:1 CR engine technical information.... After all this is the EMS and tuning forum.

I would like to know more about what your AFRs & ECTemps and other parameters were like when you started the engine on the stock ECU. I am interested to see how safe it is to run that high compression on a stock ECU.

Is this still on the stock ECU or tuned?

 

he said he was waiting to get it tuned, so i'm guessing it's tuned. Plus, i knew someone that did run this setup on a stock ecu, and it would mis quite freaquently.

I am curious as to how much timing was pulled to run 93 octane. I have the same pistons in a y8, but i was running race gas, and added timing, i think, i haven't messed with the car in over a year, let alone driven it, so i can't remember.

 

I sincerely don't mean this as any kind of criticism, but I make similar numbers with my stock D series (okay about 9 less hp but same torque) with only an ebay intake, DC header, custom exhaust; AEM EMS, AEM UEGO. My compression is stock 9.6:1. So is 128hp, 99 torque just your baseline and you need tuning? Or is my engine some kind of fluke?



Since that dyno plot I've sorted out some things and worked on the tune so no doubt I'm making more power. My engine is a JDM 96+ D15B.

 

Your comparing dynos that have nothing in common. Not saying your motor isn't close in horse power to his, but unless your both dynoing on the same day at the same place on the same machine, then blah..... As for the engine, with that much compression and pump gas, the tuner probably took out a decent amount of timing to get it running good, which is hurting horsepower. He would be much better off with race gas, thus allowing him to use the upped compression. Not to mention a aftermarket cam. I don't have any numbers but i did the same build, but with home made ITB's and the top end is way more fun then a stock engine ever was, and throttle response is great on the road course, but i miss my turbo.

 

I have quite a similar build. I did a d16a6 stock bore (strongest d series block imo) and transferred stock rods to the p29's. Car was converted to e85 and parts are as follows:
-75mm block honed
-p29 pistons
-Hastings Rings
-walbro 255
-short ram intake
-All acl bearings and Thrust washers
-d16z6 full pp, 5 angle valvejob, decked, edlebrock tit. nitride valves, zex springs, zex stg. II cam.
*Now i've calculated my compressinon to be around 13.5:1 with my set-up which obviously requires race gas which is why I converted to e85. Had a buddy with a bit milder build at 12:1 comp and he made 185whp with a nice header and 2.5" world sport exhaust. You should have more than 125hp i'd assume...Much tuning is needed w these motors to get every hp out. My buddy is a tuner and had like 5-6hrs in his. My car should be up and running soon i'll post more later.

 

Hi!
I just built D16Z6 with P29 pistons 76mm bore (+0.40). Had my first 50 miles or so and the problems are coming one after another. First of all, O2 sensor failed. Other thing is that, when the engine is warm it idles very bad and usually when I shift gears it chokes. I believe its tuning problem. Im using stock P28 ECU. Maybe someone could help me out by giving some bin file that I could use for my car just to get my engine drive up. Please Help!!!

 

ok a base map for a p30 with the p28 fuel map overlayed and set your fuel pressure to 55 PSI and Don't run Vac to it for the best Spey pattern (stock fuel pressure give a cone of fuel spray @45 Degree's leaving raw wet fuel to drip into the motor but at 55 PSI you get a Fog of fuel) also if useing Crome remember to change this in the fuel map settings. found that this gives a 10-15Hp gain.