Ok got a little bit over my head this is my 1st swap and i didnt quite look in to it like i should have so i need some help...... I need to know what needs to be done to put an OBD1 GSR into a CF hatch(91) correct me if I'm wrong here

-Engine harness
-ECU harness

am i missing anything? Feel so stupid because of this.

 

uh yea your missing a dick ton of stuff. Do you mean you have a HF civic btw? So long as you have a mpfi engine in there stock, then you wont have to worry bout converting from dpfi to mpfi

-Engine, Trans, and Ecu Itself
-Rywire obd0 to obd1 conversion harness
-DA integra axles, abs or non-abs doesn't matter
-DA 5spd intermediate shaft
-DA teg throttle cable
-b-series into EF shift linkages (ebay, avid, innovative, hasport)
-b-series into EF motor mounts (see above^)
-LS b18 cable tranny speed sensor (assuming you want to retain your stock cable gauge cluster)
-DA integra driverside engine bracket (part that bolts to the block)
-DA 5spd rear tranny bracket

You need to solder all 5 wires that are going into your resistor box into eachother, and remove the box altogether. Should be 4 red 1 yellow.This is assuming you intend to use the obd1 injectors on the gsr engine. Otherwise use obd0 injectors and retain the box.

You also need to pry the dust covers off the backside of your axle hubs so that the axles don't bind up.

You'll need to move/extend the coolant temp fan switch wires from the back of the block (where the fan switch is located on the d-series) to the thermostat housing (fan switch location on b engines).

Also you will need to make clearance for your alternator pulley. It will hit the frame rail otherwise. You will see a square shape hole on the frame rail area near where the alternator sits. While you have the old engine out hop in the engine bay and bang away 2 inches below that square shape hole. If you get lucky you wont have to have your engine in and out 17 times.

One final thing. When your dropping the engine in, leave the transmission bracket off, and start by lining up the driver side mount. Then with the engine kinda half way into place, half not, slide the rear trans bracket into place. If you try to install it to the engine and drop it in bolted up, it wont fit. And if you drop the engine all the way in and try to slide the bracket into place afterwards, you also wont have anywhere near enough room to do so. So while the engine most of the way in, but not quite, is when you should work on installing the rear t-bracket loosely. Its a pain in the *** and you'll see what i mean once you get to the install.

Heres a pic of dust seal being removed from hub


and pics of where the frame rail clearance needs to be made



And i think that just about does it