I have a 93 civic with a zc single cam.

 

your oem is plenty

 

well my car is overheating so i wanted 2 replace.

 

then its not the radiator. Check thermostat or bad water pump .

 

how would i check the water pump?

 

The man asked whats a good radiator nobody can ever give someone a straight answer on here. Maybe he knows that his water pump is jacked up or needs a new thermo. Anyways If I had to pick a radiator to run it would be a Koyo Thats what I got and I havent ever had any problems with it

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by h-duced &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The man asked whats a good radiator nobody can ever give someone a straight answer on here. Maybe he knows that his water pump is jacked up or needs a new thermo. Anyways If I had to pick a radiator to run it would be a Koyo Thats what I got and I havent ever had any problems with it</TD></TR></TABLE>
But hes putting a band aid on a bigger problem if its overheating why would I send him to spend 150 dollars on a radiator and he still has the same problem!

What if he needs a water pump or a 10 dollar thermostat than his problem is solved. besides the Koyo is a replica of the OEM its just aluminum. The best would be a Fluidyne but its not cheap.

 

whats the symtoms of your problem were trying to a buck here.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by slvrcvc93 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
But hes putting a band aid on a bigger problem if its overheating why would I send him to spend 150 dollars on a radiator and he still has the same problem!

What if he needs a water pump or a 10 dollar thermostat than his problem is solved. besides the Koyo is a replica of the OEM its just aluminum. The best would be a Fluidyne but its not cheap.</TD></TR></TABLE>

koyo is a replica of oem. I didnt know honda was making full core radiators almost 2" thick. Tell you what you find me a OEM like that and I will give you my KOYO.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by h-duced &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The man asked whats a good radiator nobody can ever give someone a straight answer on here. Maybe he knows that his water pump is jacked up or needs a new thermo. Anyways If I had to pick a radiator to run it would be a Koyo Thats what I got and I havent ever had any problems with it</TD></TR></TABLE>

If you went to a pharmacist and said "I've had a persistent cough for 3 weeks and would like some cough medicine", it may not be an out of the world question for the pharmacist to ask what your other symptoms are.

Maybe you have bronchitis. Cough syrup won't cure that. You're supposed to go after the problem, not the symptom.

The OP wants a racing radiator based on the fact that his car is over heating. That sounds a little ridiculous....just like taking cough medicine for a persistent cough that has lasted 3 weeks.

A stock single cam doesn't exactly run hot. If the thermostat or water pump is bad, putting a HUGE *** radiator paired up to a SMALL *** engine is not the solution. If his single cam is stock and overheating, there's an issue there.

Maybe the issue is the radiator. In which case, a stock replacement will do.

Maybe the issue is a water pump. In which case, putting a bandaid on it and driving like normal will cause much more damage later on. Not to mention, the bandaid may not cure the issue.

Maybe the issue is a thermostat. Putting a huge radiator in probably won't cure that problem either.

Maybe the issue is just a temp gauge, sensor, or sender unit. In which case, your recommenation for buying a $300+ radiator would have just put him out of $300.

OP...diagnose first, buy parts later. Your stock radiator is more than enough for your (im assuming) stock motor or close to stock motor.

If you had a turbo and you were driving the hell out of the car, the racing radiator may be a good idea. You'd be surprised as to how good the Honda cooling systems are. Or maybe it's because the engine is aluminum and open deck....

You probably don't need additional cooling. Solve the PROBLEM. Not the symptom.

 

This guy does have a point

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hondaprodigy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">how would i check the water pump?</TD></TR></TABLE>

How old is the engine? How many miles are on it? It's a good idea to replace the water pump every 60K-90K or 5-7 years on those engines, IIRC.

If the water pump goes bad, often times, coolant will come out of the weep hole. Is there a puddle of coolant on the ground after you park? It will be by the timing belt area.

 

For what you're running OEM is more than enough, theres lots of people running GS-R swaps on OEM EG rads. If its overheating its possible the rad is partially plugged, bad thermostat, blown head gasket, bad waterpump, coolant leak, bad fan, bad fan switch. But to answer your original question Mishimoto seems to make a pretty nice aluminum rad.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by h-duced &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">This guy does have a point </TD></TR></TABLE>

I've actually never been wrong about anything. Ever.

 

I agree with the guys above. If your overheating, then there are other issues besides your radiator.

But to answer your original question, if you want a racing radiator, then look for an all aluminum one like a Fluidyne:
http://www.fluidyne.com/
Do you have AC? Do you need AC? If not, then you can go with a full-width ITR or GSR radiator. Or balz out with a full width Fluidyne or comparable aluminum one off ebay.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mrlegoman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I agree with the guys above. If your overheating, then there are other issues besides your radiator.

But to answer your original question, if you want a racing radiator, then look for an all aluminum one like a Fluidyne:
http://www.fluidyne.com/
Do you have AC? Do you need AC? If not, then you can go with a full-width ITR or GSR radiator. Or balz out with a full width Fluidyne or comparable aluminum one off ebay.</TD></TR></TABLE>

The dude lives in canada. Do you have any idea how long it takes even a B18C to heat up its full length STOCK radiator? It's annoying even in Illinois with a B series.

He lives in Canada with a D series. If he gets a big *** radiator, it's going to be super annoying. I had to cover up my GSR's full length radiator with cardboard so the damn thing would warm up within 8 hours in the winter time.

Lots of people with GSRs, other Integras, and EFs have the same complaint. It takes too damn long to warm up with a full length radiator.

The stock half radiator is fine until you SERIOUSLY mod the **** out of the engine to where it needs cooling.

 

True.
Since he specified a 'racing radiator', I thought it was from a track/racing perspective in which overheating is an issue. If his single cam is overheating from daily driving, then I agree and the radiator is defiantly not the issue

 

ZC engine with koyo radiator.. hmm not a very good looking combo. The car will cool down even with the engine is on. lol

oem is the best. If the radi is the problem, just find oem ones. But it is most unlikely that the radiator is causing the overheating issue.

 

lol They do you dummy its the one on the automatic lmao Noobs<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by h-duced &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

koyo is a replica of oem. I didnt know honda was making full core radiators almost 2" thick. Tell you what you find me a OEM like that and I will give you my KOYO.</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by slvrcvc93 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">lol They do you dummy its the one on the automatic lmao Noobs</TD></TR></TABLE>

The OEM automatic radiators are not quite 2'' thick. Double core, yes. 2'' thick, no.

Are the older OEM double cores even aluminum?