Need help with first alarm install.
The car I will be installing the alarm in is a 93 Civic DX.The alarm I'll be installing is a Autopage RF-315 http://www.autopageusa.com/t_i...25c51 .Since this is my first time installing an alarm and have no experience with alarms I'm gunna need some help.First I want to know wheres the best place to mount the brain,shock sensor and starter kill relay(I was thinking of mounting the brain on the knee bolster)?Also I need to know where the best places are to attach the following wires:positive door trigger,negative instant,negative door trigger,parking light relay output.
You should be hiding the alarm brain a little better then just under the dash, "knee bolster", first place a crook will look, pull the instrument cluster and see if it will fit up there someplace.
You should also start by removing, [depinning] any leads from the alarm harnesses that you do not need, [like the pos.(+) door trigger] your car has neg.(-) door triggers so the pos.(+) trigger is not needed so get rid of it.
This will help... http://64.85.6.121/diagrams/pr...eID=3
http://www.the12volt.com/insta....html
Feel free to IM me if you have questions.
94
You should also start by removing, [depinning] any leads from the alarm harnesses that you do not need, [like the pos.(+) door trigger] your car has neg.(-) door triggers so the pos.(+) trigger is not needed so get rid of it.
This will help... http://64.85.6.121/diagrams/pr...eID=3
http://www.the12volt.com/insta....html
Feel free to IM me if you have questions.
94
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fryman »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Great wiring diagram,just what I was looking for.But where do I put the negative instant wire?</TD></TR></TABLE>
The negative instant wire is generally used for a trunk pin. I can't remember if that body style civic has a factory one or not.
The negative instant wire is generally used for a trunk pin. I can't remember if that body style civic has a factory one or not.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fryman »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Great wiring diagram,just what I was looking for.But where do I put the negative instant wire?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Should go to a backup battery thats should be installed with this alarm.
Put the trunk on the door wire if you choose to go with a trunk trigger and diode isolate it from the doors to keep the cluster from showing trunk and doors open at the same time if your cluster is set up that way.
I strongly suggest that the back up battery has it own trigger. This is because of the alarms n.p.s or if a theif decides to leave a trigger open hoping that the alarm will bypass that trigger. Ie. back up battery on hoodpin trigger. theif pops hood and leaves it open or doors. If the back up battery is tied to it will be bypassed till the sensor is brought back on line. And if the theif kills the battery its not going to trigger the alarm. But the alarm will still be powered by it. If possible use a relay to switch polarity to ground and use it on the 12 door trigger input. imo
Should go to a backup battery thats should be installed with this alarm.
Put the trunk on the door wire if you choose to go with a trunk trigger and diode isolate it from the doors to keep the cluster from showing trunk and doors open at the same time if your cluster is set up that way.
I strongly suggest that the back up battery has it own trigger. This is because of the alarms n.p.s or if a theif decides to leave a trigger open hoping that the alarm will bypass that trigger. Ie. back up battery on hoodpin trigger. theif pops hood and leaves it open or doors. If the back up battery is tied to it will be bypassed till the sensor is brought back on line. And if the theif kills the battery its not going to trigger the alarm. But the alarm will still be powered by it. If possible use a relay to switch polarity to ground and use it on the 12 door trigger input. imo
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by kleen98accord »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Read suspended hatch's FAQ/Thread on auto security. You'll learn a lot from it.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I was reading it and decided I want to get a tilt sensor and glass break sensor.So for my alarm I would wire them to the door trigger or shock sensor or where?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by wrx-killer-Sti-eater »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Should go to a backup battery thats should be installed with this alarm.
Put the trunk on the door wire if you choose to go with a trunk trigger and diode isolate it from the doors to keep the cluster from showing trunk and doors open at the same time if your cluster is set up that way.
I strongly suggest that the back up battery has it own trigger. This is because of the alarms n.p.s or if a theif decides to leave a trigger open hoping that the alarm will bypass that trigger. Ie. back up battery on hoodpin trigger. theif pops hood and leaves it open or doors. If the back up battery is tied to it will be bypassed till the sensor is brought back on line. And if the theif kills the battery its not going to trigger the alarm. But the alarm will still be powered by it. If possible use a relay to switch polarity to ground and use it on the 12 door trigger input. imo
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So I would attach the negative backup battery terminal to the negative instant wire and then connect the positive wire from the backup battery to the main power wire for the alarm?
</TD></TR></TABLE>I was reading it and decided I want to get a tilt sensor and glass break sensor.So for my alarm I would wire them to the door trigger or shock sensor or where?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by wrx-killer-Sti-eater »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Should go to a backup battery thats should be installed with this alarm.
Put the trunk on the door wire if you choose to go with a trunk trigger and diode isolate it from the doors to keep the cluster from showing trunk and doors open at the same time if your cluster is set up that way.
I strongly suggest that the back up battery has it own trigger. This is because of the alarms n.p.s or if a theif decides to leave a trigger open hoping that the alarm will bypass that trigger. Ie. back up battery on hoodpin trigger. theif pops hood and leaves it open or doors. If the back up battery is tied to it will be bypassed till the sensor is brought back on line. And if the theif kills the battery its not going to trigger the alarm. But the alarm will still be powered by it. If possible use a relay to switch polarity to ground and use it on the 12 door trigger input. imo
</TD></TR></TABLE>
So I would attach the negative backup battery terminal to the negative instant wire and then connect the positive wire from the backup battery to the main power wire for the alarm?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fryman »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
So I would attach the negative backup battery terminal to the negative instant wire</TD></TR></TABLE>
Hell no, man!
The backup battery ground goes to chassis ground. The backup battery blue wire is your instant trigger that is used to set off the alarm.
http://causeforalarm.thecarthi....html
So I would attach the negative backup battery terminal to the negative instant wire</TD></TR></TABLE>
Hell no, man!
The backup battery ground goes to chassis ground. The backup battery blue wire is your instant trigger that is used to set off the alarm.
http://causeforalarm.thecarthi....html
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by baller status »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Hell no, man!
The backup battery ground goes to chassis ground. The backup battery blue wire is your instant trigger that is used to set off the alarm.
http://causeforalarm.thecarthi....html</TD></TR></TABLE>
Ohh ok.Thanks.
Hell no, man!
The backup battery ground goes to chassis ground. The backup battery blue wire is your instant trigger that is used to set off the alarm.
http://causeforalarm.thecarthi....html</TD></TR></TABLE>
Ohh ok.Thanks.
Ok I hooked up the basic wires to make sure everything works.I tested it and everything seems to work fine.Here is how it looks now(keep in mind this is just temporarily wired to ensure everything worked).

Door trigger = white/red wire
Ignition input = black/yellow wire
So do I just splice those two wires in or what?Also according to the wiring diagram fcm gave me,the parking lights wire is the red/black wire in the green plug on top of the fuse box....I tested the wire and it got power when I turned on the parking lights but when I connected the white parking light relay wire,the alarm kept churping every few seconds and wouldn't respond when I tried to program it.Only after removing the wire did it stop churping and I was able to program it.....is that the wrong wire?

Door trigger = white/red wire
Ignition input = black/yellow wire
So do I just splice those two wires in or what?Also according to the wiring diagram fcm gave me,the parking lights wire is the red/black wire in the green plug on top of the fuse box....I tested the wire and it got power when I turned on the parking lights but when I connected the white parking light relay wire,the alarm kept churping every few seconds and wouldn't respond when I tried to program it.Only after removing the wire did it stop churping and I was able to program it.....is that the wrong wire?
You can use the park light free-pin for the park light flash, it is one of the terminals like the one you have the alarms power connected to.
The door trigger is light green/red not white/red.
The best way to make the connections is to depin the cars wire you need from it's plug and then solder the alarms wire to the terminals, [pin] shank, you must be careful not to interfere with the pins ability to be repined into the plug, [and lock into place].
94
The door trigger is light green/red not white/red.
The best way to make the connections is to depin the cars wire you need from it's plug and then solder the alarms wire to the terminals, [pin] shank, you must be careful not to interfere with the pins ability to be repined into the plug, [and lock into place].
94
I tried the plug I have my tach back light and it worked.But is it safe to have it there since the tach is attached and the back lights for my cluster?Do you know where the door trigger wire is located?I looked behind the rug that's under the hood release but didn't see it.
There are a number of places you can find that lead, low in drivers kick panel, at one of the plugs in or around the fuse box, at the leads running up the drivers "A" pillar to the dome light, at the dome light, at the pass. door pin switch, [do not use drivers door pin switch, it is isolated by the ICU from the other door(s).
There are more then one light green/red lead in the car, so test the lead you think it is before you connect to it.
94
There are more then one light green/red lead in the car, so test the lead you think it is before you connect to it.
94
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fcm »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> There are a number of places you can find that lead, low in drivers kick panel, at one of the plugs in or around the fuse box, at the leads running up the drivers "A" pillar to the dome light, at the dome light, at the pass. door pin switch, [do not use drivers door pin switch, it is isolated by the ICU from the other door(s).
There are more then one light green/red lead in the car, so test the lead you think it is before you connect to it.
94</TD></TR></TABLE>
Ok I found the wire for all the doors and I installed everything and it all works great
.Thank you all for the help
.One thing I'm wondering though is,does the alarm use much power when armed but not triggered?I don't drive the car much so I'm wondering if its best for the battery to keep it off while its at my house since its in the driveway and I keep it covered up.
There are more then one light green/red lead in the car, so test the lead you think it is before you connect to it.
94</TD></TR></TABLE>Ok I found the wire for all the doors and I installed everything and it all works great
.Thank you all for the help
.One thing I'm wondering though is,does the alarm use much power when armed but not triggered?I don't drive the car much so I'm wondering if its best for the battery to keep it off while its at my house since its in the driveway and I keep it covered up.
The alarm uses very little power when just armed and unless you are leaving it for weeks at a time, you will not have a problem, also keep in mind a large percentage of cars are stolen right out of peoples driveways.
94
94
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fcm »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> The alarm uses very little power when just armed and unless you are leaving it for weeks at a time, you will not have a problem, also keep in mind a large percentage of cars are stolen right out of peoples driveways.
94</TD></TR></TABLE>
Oh ok I'll leave it armed then...also I should work on getting a driveway gate
.Thanks boss
94</TD></TR></TABLE>Oh ok I'll leave it armed then...also I should work on getting a driveway gate
.Thanks boss
Theres a little plastic screw on the top of the shock sensor,you adjust it by that screw.I discovered the shock sensor isnt very good though(as I was told by many people)...best to get a glass break sensor,I'm gunna get one of those along with a tilt sensor.But anyway the shock sensor works,just not all the great.I'm guessing the way you adjust it is turn it all the way sensative and keep arming and hitting the car,slowly adjusting the screw to be less sensative until its where you want it.
The shock sensor should work fine, for it to work properly it must be installed and adjusted properly.
What is the problem you are having with it?
Where and how is it mounted?
94
What is the problem you are having with it?
Where and how is it mounted?
94
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fcm »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The shock sensor should work fine, for it to work properly it must be installed and adjusted properly.
What is the problem you are having with it?
Where and how is it mounted?
94</TD></TR></TABLE>
I mounted mines on the driver side "kick panel",near where the wire harness is that has the door trigger wire.There was a free place for a screw so I got a 10mm screw and put it there.Its just not as sensative as I want it.I set it all the way sensative and I had to hit the car really hard for it to go off or even warn.I wanted it to where you bang on the window or hood and it goes off or warns.
What is the problem you are having with it?
Where and how is it mounted?
94</TD></TR></TABLE>I mounted mines on the driver side "kick panel",near where the wire harness is that has the door trigger wire.There was a free place for a screw so I got a 10mm screw and put it there.Its just not as sensative as I want it.I set it all the way sensative and I had to hit the car really hard for it to go off or even warn.I wanted it to where you bang on the window or hood and it goes off or warns.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fryman »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I mounted mines on the driver side "kick panel",near where the wire harness is that has the door trigger wire.There was a free place for a screw so I got a 10mm screw and put it there.Its just not as sensative as I want it.I set it all the way sensative and I had to hit the car really hard for it to go off or even warn.I wanted it to where you bang on the window or hood and it goes off or warns.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Shock sensors work a lot better if they are zip tied to a wire harness as opposed to mounted on something solid.
I mounted mines on the driver side "kick panel",near where the wire harness is that has the door trigger wire.There was a free place for a screw so I got a 10mm screw and put it there.Its just not as sensative as I want it.I set it all the way sensative and I had to hit the car really hard for it to go off or even warn.I wanted it to where you bang on the window or hood and it goes off or warns.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Shock sensors work a lot better if they are zip tied to a wire harness as opposed to mounted on something solid.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 8520 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Shock sensors work a lot better if they are zip tied to a wire harness as opposed to mounted on something solid.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Oh maybe thats the problem.I'll do as you said and see if it works better.Thanks for the tip
Shock sensors work a lot better if they are zip tied to a wire harness as opposed to mounted on something solid.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Oh maybe thats the problem.I'll do as you said and see if it works better.Thanks for the tip
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 8520 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Shock sensors work a lot better if they are zip tied to a wire harness as opposed to mounted on something solid.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Ditto that, I will wire tie a shock sensor to the steering column, if that does not give me the sensitivity I want, [without going all the way to the top, or bottom, of the adjustment range] then I will move it to a main wire harness bundle and try it there.
Impact sensors are diff. from brand to brand so how and where they are mounted for best results will differ form one to the other and where it will work in one car it may not work as well on another car.
Some impact sensors will not work very well if wire tied to a harness, the Compustar and Alpine ones for instance, on the other hand the DEI impact sensors work well wire tied to a harness and even better wire tied to the steering column.
Also, check your install guide and make sure your impact sensor does not have an "up" side/end.
94
Shock sensors work a lot better if they are zip tied to a wire harness as opposed to mounted on something solid.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Ditto that, I will wire tie a shock sensor to the steering column, if that does not give me the sensitivity I want, [without going all the way to the top, or bottom, of the adjustment range] then I will move it to a main wire harness bundle and try it there.
Impact sensors are diff. from brand to brand so how and where they are mounted for best results will differ form one to the other and where it will work in one car it may not work as well on another car.
Some impact sensors will not work very well if wire tied to a harness, the Compustar and Alpine ones for instance, on the other hand the DEI impact sensors work well wire tied to a harness and even better wire tied to the steering column.
Also, check your install guide and make sure your impact sensor does not have an "up" side/end.
94
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