So last night I am driving down the street and all of the sudden my car dies, I pulled it over and tried to start it a few times but it would crank but not fire. I had been noticing the when I tried to start it before that I would hear clicking, I would have to try it a few times before it would turn over. now since the car died I have not heard the clicking noise but it does. It had been running excellent before. So I ran some basic test, I hooked a power senor light to the negative and to several spark plug wires and cranked it over but the sensor was showing the I am not getting any spark. so I plan on replacing the rotor. But I honestly have a feeling it might be the cylinoid, start, or the Timing belt(which I pray to god it’s not) what are some of the best ways that you use to check these items to narrow down what the problem is? has anyone had this problem before and if so what’s the best way to go about fixing it? I have never had to change a timing belt and it is a little concerning, I know this is more of a noob question but I really need help.

 

First thing is first CHECK FOR SPARK!!!!

To check for spark I commonly place a screwdriver in the spark plug wire tube and place the screw driver on a ground bolt of the sort. Have someone crank the engine and you should be able to see sparks come off the screw driver onto the ground.
You might see whitish blue which means a strong spark or might see yellow/orange which is weak meaning ign coil, rotor cap. But if theres spark its spark. Next

Checking for fuel.

(a)I commonly like to remove the rear seat and have someone switch the key to the ON position and place my ear over the fuel pump to hear it prime, If you dont hear anything either the fuel pump is bad or the main relay (fuel pump fuse) is blown.
(b)Loosen the 17mm bolt on the fuel filter and unscrew it make sure you dont lose the washers one it yes it two, one under the line and one on top kind of like this

<> Bolt
0 Washer
P Line
0 Washer
[] Fuel Filter
Have someone put the key on the ON position and you will see gas shoot out with pressure. If not return to relay or pump.

Next step is simple, check all your grounds. Valve Cover, Battery, Thermostat.

If all of these are working then your problem lies somewhere in timing.

I would then start but taking a 19mm Socket and Ratcher with bar or whatever turn crank to TDC.

Removed Valve cover. First signs should be your cam gears. Both camgears should point directly UP
not at an angle or anything both must be on point. There are other marking when they are next to each other at TDC its like an engraved line
through both that should be directly on point kind of like

^ ^ Arrows point up.
-- Inner Side of cams lined up.
This is how it should be most likely if all steps above were done correctly it this should be off and needs repair.

Get yourself a HELMS when doing this to do it right!
This is a small explanation of what needs to be done in a summary. There more little things to check others might do differently but this is me.

Also is there a CEL?

 

Ok so i checked the fuses, the fuel pump and finally did the screwdriver test with the spark plug wires, It turns out that i am not getting and spark from the distributor. So just to narrow it down even further i turn on the ingition and did a power test to so if power is going to the Distributor and that checked out fine. I checked for play on the rotor and there was none, it looks a little worn so i was going to replace it but i cant get to the screw. I attempted to turn the engin over to spin the rotor where it was more accessablt but it will not spin. Does that men the timing belt it out? what am i missing?

 

check the coil

 

if you can't get to the screw, and can't crank it over enough to get to the screw, pull off the dizzy and change it.

 

Something similar happened to me recently. It turns out that the screw on that held they rotor to the dizzy fell out and was bouncing around chewing stuff up. Possible similar problem?

 

Yup might as well pull the dizzy off and turn by hand.

 

So after running every fricken test imaginable it was the timing belt. the belt snapped while going about 25-30 mph. so that explains why its turning over and not firing and the distributor is not spinning and i was not getting any play. Thanks for all your help

 

Got it back from the shop today, it runs like a champ. the mechanic said that i was very lucky that i was only going about 25mph when the belt broke because had i been moving at higher RPM i would have mostlikely bent the valves or busted a piston head. tanks for all of your input

 

I don't see how you could have been cranking the engine over with the cams not moving and NOT have bent some valves. Is the B18B1 engine a non-interference design?

 

the starter was turning but the distributor was not firing so the pistons wouldnt move. I did some research and it said that 9 out 10 times nothing bad would happen on a interferance engine if you are at low rpm and speed when the belt breaks, but if the belt were to jump a tooth it would severly throw the timing off and f**k up your enigine. I am not having any symptoms of bent valves such at noise, high rev, knocking, smoke or anything for that matter. when i get home today i plan on doing a leak down test and i am planning on having the valves adjusted soon anyway

 

If the starter is turning, then you're pistons are moving. Your valves wouldn't be moving after a T-belt snap, but the pistons almost always slam into them and bend them. If you really didn't bend any valves, you're are a very luck man. I don't see how it's possible either though...