Timing belt broke as I was starting my 90 Accord. Are the velves bent?
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From: Lawrenceville, GA, USA
Timing belt broke as I was starting my 90 Accord. Are the valves bent?
The car was running fine with 175,000 mi. It was hard to start one day after work but it ran fine and I got it home with no incident. The next morning, it began to "dog out" every time I got above 1500 rpm and I turned around about a block from my house and put it in the driveway until I could decide what to do. Over the next few days I started it for a few seconds twice just trying to figure out the problem. On the third try I heard the belt snap and only heard the pistons going around (no compression because the valves were stuck in various states of "open") I knew immediately that the timing belt had broken.
What are the chances of valve damage in that instance? Do you think I can get away with just changing the belt(s) and pump? Or is my poor little baby toast?
What are the chances of valve damage in that instance? Do you think I can get away with just changing the belt(s) and pump? Or is my poor little baby toast?
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Re: Timing belt broke as I was starting my 90 Accord. Are the valves bent? (theheilious)
most likely can get away with a new belt since engine was not under load when the belt snapped
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From: strathcedar, nsw, australia
Re: Timing belt broke as I was starting my 90 Accord. Are the valves bent? (YeuEmMaiMai)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by YeuEmMaiMai »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">most likely can get away with a new belt since engine was not under load when the belt snapped</TD></TR></TABLE>
IMO engine load has little to do with it, engine speed does, i.e. how fast the pistons were moving when they impacted the open valves.
If the belt broke as you were cranking it over but the engine hadn't actually fired up, then you might be very lucky, but I seriously doubt it. At this point I think you need to fit a new belt then do a compression test, or just drive it if it starts and drives like it did before the belt broke.
Good luck, I'll keep my fingers crossed for you...
IMO engine load has little to do with it, engine speed does, i.e. how fast the pistons were moving when they impacted the open valves.
If the belt broke as you were cranking it over but the engine hadn't actually fired up, then you might be very lucky, but I seriously doubt it. At this point I think you need to fit a new belt then do a compression test, or just drive it if it starts and drives like it did before the belt broke.
Good luck, I'll keep my fingers crossed for you...
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From: Lawrenceville, GA, USA
Re: Timing belt broke as I was starting my 90 Accord. Are the valves bent? (YeuEmMaiMai)
That was sort of my feeling as well but I'm going to have a hard time convincing a mechanic not to talk me into a top end overhaul.
How much should I expect to pay for a belt and pump job?
How much should I expect to pay for a belt and pump job?
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From: Lawrenceville, GA, USA
Re: Timing belt broke as I was starting my 90 Accord. Are the valves bent? (theheilious)
Does it take any specialized tools to do the job? Or just the same basic hand tools I used to do my clutch a few months back?
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Re: Timing belt broke as I was starting my 90 Accord. Are the valves bent? (theheilious)
see the timing belt write-up thats linked in the FAQ.
a few things will be slightly different because of the different engine but the tools required will be the same and you'll get an idea of what it'll take to do the job.
Overall it's not a very difficult job to do IMO. Time consuming yes but not very difficult. Just allow plenty of time and follow a manual, the Helm manual is pricey but it's more than worth it's cost.
a few things will be slightly different because of the different engine but the tools required will be the same and you'll get an idea of what it'll take to do the job.
Overall it's not a very difficult job to do IMO. Time consuming yes but not very difficult. Just allow plenty of time and follow a manual, the Helm manual is pricey but it's more than worth it's cost.
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From: strathcedar, nsw, australia
Re: Timing belt broke as I was starting my 90 Accord. Are the valves bent? (TouringAccord)
If you have a reasonable level of mechanical ability then it's not really all that hard to do, but it is awkward and time consuming due to having to disconnect engine mounts, front subframe etc, and lower the engine to do the job.
The problem you have is that to put a new belt on just to see where you stand, you'll have to do all this, and then you might well still have to pull the head etc, if the valves are bent.
The problem you have is that to put a new belt on just to see where you stand, you'll have to do all this, and then you might well still have to pull the head etc, if the valves are bent.
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Re: Timing belt broke as I was starting my 90 Accord. Are the valves bent? (johnlear)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by johnlear »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">front subframe etc, and lower the engine to do the job.</TD></TR></TABLE>
What do you have to do with the front subframe?
What do you have to do with the front subframe?
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From: strathcedar, nsw, australia
Re: Timing belt broke as I was starting my 90 Accord. Are the valves bent? (TouringAccord)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TouringAccord »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
What do you have to do with the front subframe?</TD></TR></TABLE>
As part of lowering the engine to gain better access to the 'front' of the motor, you need to remove the two subframe bolts on the left side of the car, and loosen the two on the right side, so the subframe can be lowered on the left side along with the left side of the engine.
You need to do this because if you leave the subframe in situ then (from memory) the AC compressor hits it before the engine has lowered more than a couple of inches. Of course you might remove the compressor, but it would be a lot easier to just lower the subframe. If you don't have AC then you might not have to lower the subframe...
Of course I now expect somebody to chime in saying that I'm an idiot and that it can be done without lowering the subframe, and / or that the belts can be changed without lowering the motor, but I couldn't see any other way.
What do you have to do with the front subframe?</TD></TR></TABLE>
As part of lowering the engine to gain better access to the 'front' of the motor, you need to remove the two subframe bolts on the left side of the car, and loosen the two on the right side, so the subframe can be lowered on the left side along with the left side of the engine.
You need to do this because if you leave the subframe in situ then (from memory) the AC compressor hits it before the engine has lowered more than a couple of inches. Of course you might remove the compressor, but it would be a lot easier to just lower the subframe. If you don't have AC then you might not have to lower the subframe...
Of course I now expect somebody to chime in saying that I'm an idiot and that it can be done without lowering the subframe, and / or that the belts can be changed without lowering the motor, but I couldn't see any other way.
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