1995 H22 Accord is cutting ouy at 7k
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From: Shagging a SanSational chick, USA
My girls Accord is fully tuned and randomly started cutting out 7k. When your on the gas and get to 7k it looses all power. Sometimes when your cruising on the interstate between 3k and 5k you will just be cruising, not accelerating it will starting like its hitting a rev limiter. It usually happens at 3750 when I'm driving but she said she has seen it anywhere between 3k to 5k. Usually you have to let off and let the RPM's go down a couple thousand and its fine. Sometimes as soon as it gets back up to whatever RPM it bounced off the limiter it will do it again. Nothing was changed with the setup when it started happening.
I changed her fuel pump about a month ago but it rane very very well after that. She even had it at the track once and it ran very well. But ever since the tach has been jumping around. She has an Auto Meter tach that has always had a twichy needle. She wants to get rid if it but is waiting to get a new A-piller so theres no holes. But the stock tach just started doing it. I dont think there related cause they started happening at different times.
What I have already tried. Plugs, Wires, map, checked the connection for the tach wire inside the dizzy and found that the Auto Meter had been installed with a wire connector so I soldered it and also found that the MSD coil had been cut and wire connected in so I soldered all of those also and used heat shrink on everything and taped over it. Didnt fix anything.
Is there a good way to test the tach signal wire? Is there a tach pickup inside the ECU that could be bad?
Thanks in advance for any help. I'm pulling my last couple hairs out with this. I blew my motor the same night at the track and haven't been able to touch my car cause this has been taking up my time.
I changed her fuel pump about a month ago but it rane very very well after that. She even had it at the track once and it ran very well. But ever since the tach has been jumping around. She has an Auto Meter tach that has always had a twichy needle. She wants to get rid if it but is waiting to get a new A-piller so theres no holes. But the stock tach just started doing it. I dont think there related cause they started happening at different times.
What I have already tried. Plugs, Wires, map, checked the connection for the tach wire inside the dizzy and found that the Auto Meter had been installed with a wire connector so I soldered it and also found that the MSD coil had been cut and wire connected in so I soldered all of those also and used heat shrink on everything and taped over it. Didnt fix anything.
Is there a good way to test the tach signal wire? Is there a tach pickup inside the ECU that could be bad?
Thanks in advance for any help. I'm pulling my last couple hairs out with this. I blew my motor the same night at the track and haven't been able to touch my car cause this has been taking up my time.
No Cels? Sounds like limp mode
Also, CHeck the grounds that USED to mount to the back of the intake mani... Ive had them come loose and reek havoc with very similar tach symptoms that you are experiencing... Both my Autometer and stock were doing it. MAKE SURE the ground (there are actually four wires that go to the ground) is tight...
Also, CHeck the grounds that USED to mount to the back of the intake mani... Ive had them come loose and reek havoc with very similar tach symptoms that you are experiencing... Both my Autometer and stock were doing it. MAKE SURE the ground (there are actually four wires that go to the ground) is tight...
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From: Shagging a SanSational chick, USA
I don't know of any grounds on her intake mani. She has a Rosko Racing Euro R intake mani that I put on a year ago and I didnt see any grounds to the stock mani. Where do the grounds come from on the car? I can find a place to connect them if I can find them. If I can't find them can I just run a ground from the body to the intake or is it an accessory ground?
They are the ECU grounds i believe....
On the F motor, they attatch on the rear of the Intake manifold... On the Aftermarket H22 manifolds the provision isnt there (at least not on the S2PS mani i have)... So I ran it to the therm housing...
Just look for the ground that has four wires going to it and make sure its grounded... My car was doing the same tach ****, and would break up randomly at different RPMS... I went [freak]ing crazy trying to figure it out.... 3 dizzys, plugs (which I was runnning non resistor plugs which was [freak]ing it up too) wires... Everything. Tightened the ground, and put resistor styl plugs in it and have not had 1 problem since
On the F motor, they attatch on the rear of the Intake manifold... On the Aftermarket H22 manifolds the provision isnt there (at least not on the S2PS mani i have)... So I ran it to the therm housing...
Just look for the ground that has four wires going to it and make sure its grounded... My car was doing the same tach ****, and would break up randomly at different RPMS... I went [freak]ing crazy trying to figure it out.... 3 dizzys, plugs (which I was runnning non resistor plugs which was [freak]ing it up too) wires... Everything. Tightened the ground, and put resistor styl plugs in it and have not had 1 problem since
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From: Shagging a SanSational chick, USA
You were right. That fixed it. I forgot I had to extend the grounds and move them to the bolt for the throttle cable. THanks you so much for your help. That fixed it.
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