Aluminum VS Steel

Brand Name VS No Name


For any car that actually gets driven and tracked, what do you trust, and have you had any bad experiences with either. I figured this would be a good question with the large selection of lug nuts we have to choose in 12x1.50 for our Hondas.

Possibly stir up some possiblities or to end any fear of shearing aluminum lugs, whether they be cheapys or expensive brand name ones from people who have experience with metals. (granted I think anything can shear if over tq'd but I am trying to base this off of just a driving/racing standpoint).

If I get some replies this would be cool as its a little debate I have always wanted to start, and I think this is a good section to start it in and something to keep me entertained while sick in bed with a headcold.

 

I used to run Buddy Club because of there light weight (blah, blah, blah). They would work loose and gaul very bad. Now I run generic steel nuts from my local America's Tire Co. I am much happier with them, as they don't really loosen up between sessions. +1 for steel.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tarmac Junkie &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I used to run Buddy Club because of there light weight (blah, blah, blah). They would work loose and gaul very bad. Now I run generic steel nuts from my local America's Tire Co. I am much happier with them, as they don't really loosen up between sessions. +1 for steel.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I have personally ran Rays aluminum, as well as cheap steel nuts without issue. I wish there were more lugnuts made in steel in the same designs as some of the aluminum nuts, I think I can sacrifice the small weight difference. What would be nice is if we could get a bowl of experiences to see if any particular design/metal is more prone to loosening up and or the threads shearing.

I personally am in the market for another set and figured this would be a good time to get some experiences.

 

I have the buddy club aluminium. I am happy with them, and don't get any loosening. I do use a wee bit of ani-seize to lubricate the threads.

what used to worry me is every time I'd gun them on and off there's be thin little "chips" of aluminium that the steel studs had "machined" off... I'm over it now though

 

i use OBX aluminum open ended lugs. they are a good throw away item,but yet havent had a set fail as i dont use an impact on them. but there is 9 pages of archives in this section on lugs. and the common result is most have gone with the steel version are better, or the aluminum work just fine.




Modified by jdm civic 2000 at 12:36 AM 9/4/2008

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tarmac Junkie &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I used to run Buddy Club because of there light weight (blah, blah, blah). They would work loose and gaul very bad. Now I run generic steel nuts from my local America's Tire Co. I am much happier with them, as they don't really loosen up between sessions. +1 for steel.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I've run Buddy Club Aluminum lugnuts (torqued to 85 lb-ft) on my racecar for four years and I've never had any issues with them - and this is the original set of 16 that have lasted four years of continuous use. I'm running 5Zigen Alloys on the Integra and no problems. I do not use an impact gun on them and maybe this is why I haven't had any issues. Sam Rothschild has raced on his original set of 5Zigens for three years and has used the impact gun on them and they're still going strong.

 

No issues with lite weight lug nuts either! HOWEVER... I consider them consumables and change mine out every so often

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Johnny Mac &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I've run Buddy Club Aluminum lugnuts (torqued to 85 lb-ft) on my racecar for four years and I've never had any issues with them...</TD></TR></TABLE>
So that's, what, about three races?

 

I have the Skunk2 lugs torqued at 85 ft/lbs for 3 years of dd, and 1 year of autox and still perfect. I was never worried about them, but so many people kept commenting on how "scary" it was to have aluminum lugs and that made me worry a little, but they are still perfect and ill continue to use them

 

During some searches over the day or two, there are a few companies that are releasing steel/chromoly versions of some more visually appealing lug nuts.

http://twincamtech.stores.yaho....html

http://www.evasivemotorsports....de=L1


They seem to be all the same design for the most part.

Better for peace of mind, but the debate comes down to whether these would hold up better, in my experience with tracking aluminum lugs I had no issue, but I know others have.

 

I don't remember were i bought them but i ordered them from some tire/wheel place online.

I got a bag of 150 aluminum lugs for $125 dollars plus shipping. That was 4 years ago, and i think i have something like 75 left.


Never had a problem with them loosening up, the galling isn't bad either only thing that scews them up is when i just pop lug nuts on with the impact. Some times they fcked up doing that. THe nice thing is it just ruins a cheap lug nut and not my stud.

 

I like steel ones fine, but finally gave in and tried some fancy pants aluminum ones tq'd at 85 ftlbs, with no problems so far. Its been said the main benefit isn't weight, but the fact that they will sacrifice themselves instead of taking out your studs. As for the on track angle, I'd rather lose a wheel on track than on the freeway anyway, but it doesn't seem an issue either way.

 

I've never used aluminum lug nuts. I've used Honda OEM lug nuts, and aftermarket (Autozone) lug nuts, both with ball-shaped seats on Honda/Acura wheels. I've never had any problems with either when I've torqued them to 80 ft-lbs when cold (although I recently learned why NOT to do so when the wheels are hot, coming off the track).

Oh, and I'm sure most of you know this, but just in case... it's important to get lug nuts with the same shaped seat as the wheels. The "seating area" (or "seat") is the area of the lug nut, and the area of the wheel, that come in contact with each other. Stock Honda/Acura wheels have a ball/radius/spherical shaped seating area, and need lug nuts (such as stock lug nuts) which also have the same shaped seat. Aftermarket wheels use a tapered/conical/cone shaped seating area and need lug nuts (including most tuner lug nuts) which also have the same shaped seat. No, it is not safe to mix and match (stock wheel with tapered lugs or vice versa); the contact between the lugnut and the wheel will be insufficient, putting undue stress on them and potentially allowing the lug nuts to loosen easily.

 

i think anyone who races would already know that. and i'm rockin steel just tires lug nuts.

 

I'm with Johnny Mac here, been using my Buddy Clubs for awhile now with zero issues, but I don't use an impact on them either. With the prices I've seen for OEM stuff recently, I don't feel completely ripped off either

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Stinkycheezmonky &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm with Johnny Mac here, been using my Buddy Clubs for awhile now with zero issues, but I don't use an impact on them either. With the prices I've seen for OEM stuff recently, I don't feel completely ripped off either </TD></TR></TABLE>

Same here, I found a thread recently with people paying damn near 5-9 dollars a lug nut from the dealer. sheesh

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nsxtasy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I've never used aluminum lug nuts. I've used Honda OEM lug nuts, and aftermarket (Autozone) lug nuts, both with ball-shaped seats on Honda/Acura wheels. I've never had any problems with either when I've torqued them to 80 ft-lbs when cold (although I recently learned why NOT to do so when the wheels are hot, coming off the track).
</TD></TR></TABLE>
My experience is identical.

 

I used Rays "Duraluminum" lugs for 6 months.
Car is used for daily driving, autocross, and HPDEs.
Lugs were only ever hand tightened with a torque wrench (no impact, ever).

After 6 months, the threads were starting to shear off of the lugs, and left little bits of metal on the studs after removal.

If that wasn't bothering me enough as it was, I then had my car broken into and the fsckers stole (amongst many other things, helmet, race wheels and tires, jack, tools, etc...) my wheel lock. Rays lugs use a 7 sided lug as the lock. 5 minutes, a hammer, and a 12 point 19mm socket later, and I found out exactly how little "protection" the Rays locks actually offer.

Yeah, no more stupid lightweight lugs for me. Of all the places to try and save weight, the nuts that hold my wheels on are far too important to even consider saving 2oz.

For the record, I love my McGard spline drive lugs. And even though they don't mention it, they are (slightly) lighter than stock.

 

I got some open ended ball seat Honda ones from Majestic online at like less than a buck each. That was a while back.

5 to 9 bux each is ridiculous, its no wonder people call them stealerships.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mos &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I got some open ended ball seat Honda ones from Majestic online at like less than a buck each. That was a while back.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Those (part number 90381-SV1-901) are still only $1.31 at Majestic Honda.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mos &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">5 to 9 bux each is ridiculous, its no wonder people call them stealerships. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Actually, I was the one who posted about the price of lug nuts, and I was far more surprised that the price at Autozone had tripled (to $3.27) than I was at the price at dealerships (typically $4-6). Given that they're $1.31 at Majestic and $3.27 at Autozone, who's doing the stealing, now?

 

^^GET IN THE ZONE.

 

using project kics car seen 4 track events so far no problems.

 

I'm using some generic alloy extended length lug nuts on my DSP autocross car. I needed them to make it easier to put the lug nuts on with my deep recessed keizers. I'm pretty religious about checking the torque on them. No issues yet, but the aluminum on aluminum galls quickly, so I keep a close eye on them and will replace them if it starts to look nasty. I would never use them for a track car though, as they tend to loosen as the wheel/hub heats up. (aluminum and steel expand at different rates)

 

You guys might all laugh, but I get my track only lugnuts at Costco's tire spot....They're hardened, the long studs go through, and they cost like $0.50 cents each HA HA HA HA HA.......

 

Never really thought about using aluminum lug nuts. The weight difference is essentially nothing. I never thought about the fact that the alum lug nut would strip befre the stud as people mentioned, which is a pretty good reason to use them. In the end, I'm not going to pay that much for lug nuts so I use generic closed end lug nuts for like $1 a piece.

http://store.summitracing.com/...w=sku