First i'd like to thank Brian Fisher at InlinePro for putting up with my piece of garbage car. Today was the 3rd time i went to dyno within the past 4 weeks. All the while we re-wired my FJO injector driver, removed my MSD 6AL and 2 step, replaced a Blaster 2 coil with a Blaster SS, swapped ECU's, swapped distributors, and replaced a boost solenoid.

The first dyno session which occurred 4 weeks ago was a low boost success day. The car made 542hp @ ~18psi (some creep). Last year it made 495 at the same boost level. The changes were 1600's, Pro1 cams, Jim Stewart headwork.

Today, he finally gets it to make 30 psi without ignition breaking up and it made 630hp. Last year it made 680hp @ 28 psi. I think its also worth pointing out that it made 630hp @ 24psi, essentially no gain in hp with 6 more psi.

The turbo is a T4/T67 with a .68 A/R turbine housing. Sorry no dyno graph yet.

Any ideas?

Hopefully Brian sees this too so he can add whatever he thinks is necessary.


Modified by Mikey3000 at 9:15 PM 9/3/2008

 

What exhaust manifold? Adjust both cams?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by alpha &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What exhaust manifold? Adjust both cams?</TD></TR></TABLE>

the manifold is a SpoolinPerformance ram horn. i dialed the cams in. there was no adjusting done on the dyno.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rota92 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Was last years 680 on the same dyno? But still wouldn't explain the adding 4 psi and no gain. My D did that...but that's a POS D-series haha</TD></TR></TABLE>

yeah same dyno.

 

Is vtec engaging the hi cam profile?

 

If it wasn't engaging there's no way he'd even make 630 HP at 24 psi.

 

sounds like it's got everything to do with cam timing. Maybe too much overlap up top?

 

If the head and block haven't been milled, they need to be set at -1 intake, +3 exhaust...no exceptions. They need 4 degrees separation between intake and exhaust. If the head has been milled or if the block has been decked, it may end up at 0 intake, +4 exhaust. The Pro1 H22 cams have the same centerline as the B-series Pro 1 cams. If you are way outside of these settings, then that is likely your problem.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Evans-Tuning.com &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If the head and block haven't been milled, they need to be set at -1 intake, +3 exhaust...no exceptions. They need 4 degrees separation between intake and exhaust. If the head has been milled or if the block has been decked, it may end up at 0 intake, +4 exhaust. The Pro1 H22 cams have the same centerline as the B-series Pro 1 cams. If you are way outside of these settings, then that is likely your problem. </TD></TR></TABLE>

the head and block have been milled. i'm still wondering why it would gain hp at the lower of the 2 boost levels, and drop off at the higher level. we were thinking that the turbo was choking it or something. i'll look at where i have the cam gears set though.

 

at the higher pressure you might be getting more backpressure in the manifold, so any overlap is exaggerated, would be my guess.

 

What intake manifold are you running?

Did you measure backpressure in the exhaust manifold?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Evans-Tuning.com &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What intake manifold are you running?

Did you measure backpressure in the exhaust manifold?</TD></TR></TABLE>

STR manifold. we did not measure back pressure. do u have to drill into the exh. manifold to measure bp?

 

That turbine housing is way too small for that motor at that power level. The backpressure starts getting out of control and the cams start costing you power instead of giving you power like they do at low boost when the pressure ratio is still favoring the intake.

 

thats the kind of answer i was looking for.

 

Either get the turbine side right for what you're trying to do or put smaller cams back in it and you'll be good.

 

tony with the answer

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AMLS4dr200whp &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">tony with the answer </TD></TR></TABLE>

as usual.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mikey3000 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

The first dyno session which occurred 4 weeks ago was a low boost success day. The car made 542hp @ ~18psi (some creep). Last year it made 495 at the same boost level. The changes were 1600's, Pro1 cams, Jim Stewart headwork.

Hopefully Brian sees this too so he can add whatever he thinks is necessary.


Modified by Mikey3000 at 9:15 PM 9/3/2008</TD></TR></TABLE>

What injectors were you running prior to the 1600's and were you previously using an FJO injector driver?

 

sounds like tony hit the nail on the head. every turbo h22 i have ever tuned has made the most power on stock cams.

ive done 4 h22's that we took out "insert brand name cams here" and put stock cams back in and have picked up 50-80 horsepower each time.

they have all had small exhaust housings as well....


throw a S372 on there

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Turbo-charged &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

throw a S372 on there </TD></TR></TABLE>

give me one.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by kamAccord &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

What injectors were you running prior to the 1600's and were you previously using an FJO injector driver?</TD></TR></TABLE>

It was using 1000cc and no FJO driver.

 

Would you guys recommend Pro 1 cams for a low boost H22 setup like mine? Would I actually see gains without major head work?

 

how would we know what your setup is if you don't tell us?

 

What fuel pump were you running last year and this year?

 

Hey Mikey, def too much back pressure! With that P-trim and .68 back housing, your just choking up. Untill your ready to be a big boy you can do a few different things:

1-stick with the Pro 1's and put a .81 back housing on which will prob only bring your numbers up to last years.

2-put stock cams back in and put a .81 back housing on and pick up maybe 20-40whp from last year.

3-stick with Pro 1's and get a .96 back housing and make the most of your set-up for now

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Green_Goblin &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hey Mikey, def too much back pressure! With that P-trim and .68 back housing, your just choking up. Untill your ready to be a big boy you can do a few different things:

1-stick with the Pro 1's and put a .81 back housing on which will prob only bring your numbers up to last years.

2-put stock cams back in and put a .81 back housing on and pick up maybe 20-40whp from last year.

3-stick with Pro 1's and get a .96 back housing and make the most of your set-up for now</TD></TR></TABLE>

i like option 3. i went to the track this past friday night and it was breaking up really bad. i guess i need a dist. bad.

 

I thought you just replaced those.