hey HTers

im doing my front brakes and using the article from team-integra. im at the part where i need to squeeze my pistons back in but they seem to be frozen. i have no clue what to do from here. i am using a vice grip like they said but the piston is not even budging. what else can i do to make it go back in.

how easy is it suppose to be to squeeze the pistons back in.


thanks

 

also i was alittle stupid and pressed on the brakes a few times... now the piston is out even more and wont go back in.

PLEASE HELP

 

come on guys, i need help now! its almost 10pm and i need my car running in the morning!

 

i had the same damn trouble. i struggle my *** to get them back in. with a c clamp but **** never went back in. so i decided to replace it with another oem one! and also the right rear one too! need the tool for the rears. good luck tho.

 

alright so last night i got my pistons in and got everything back on. the only problem i ran into, is that everytime i press on the brakes.. the pedal seems to shake and i hear a constant popping like sound. i know it cant be the rotors because my steering wheel does not shake at all. does anyone know what the problem could be?

maybe bubbles in the brake lines?
thanks

 

sounds like something was reinstalled wrong, there should be no air in the system unless u opened the bleeder valve, check all your bolts

gl

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by egsleepercivic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">sounds like something was reinstalled wrong, there should be no air in the system unless u opened the bleeder valve, check all your bolts

gl </TD></TR></TABLE>

did not open the bleeder valve, but i did open the reservoir. would a loose bolt cause my pedal to shake? if so then ill check it before i go to sleep tonight

 

I say take it all apart and start from the beginning again. The front pads on an integra are pretty easy to change...maybe you loosend something you shouldn't have.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dc2long &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

did not open the bleeder valve, but i did open the reservoir. would a loose bolt cause my pedal to shake? if so then ill check it before i go to sleep tonight</TD></TR></TABLE>

it was the popping sound that worried me about loose bolts, i would take the wheels back off and double check everything you touched the last thng you want to happen is to here a pop and then be like '' OH CHIT NO BRAKES'' , and then crash. brakes are important, just be safe and double check everything

gl

 

ALRIGHT i think i found out what the problem is..... after finishing up my brake job last night, i asked my friend to put my left tire on for me. the next day i recheck my brakes and found out that he didnt put the wheel on correctly. the wheel was not on flat with the rotor, and i think that was causing the popping sound.

so i took the wheel off and did it myself. im still hearing that sound so im thinking my studs are F'ed up. im taking my car to the shop tomorrow for the brake flush and new studs.

i did this job myself thinking i would save money taking it to the mechanic... but i think its costing me more than what the mechanic would charge.

 

if the piston is froze, the general rule of thumb is to replace the caliper. stock calipers are pretty cheap. like $40 for remans. the brakes are one place you definately want to know what you're doing. if your buddy can't even put a wheel on, have him buy the pizza. keep him away from the wrenches. let the guy watch for awhile. once the wheels are off you should:

1' losen the caliper bracket where it bolts onto the knuckle.
2. break the threads on the caliper sliders loose.
3. remove the caliper from the knuckle.
4. remove the old pads, take the top off the master cylinder and press in the pistons
5. remove the slider bolts on the caliper and greese them
6. reinstall the slider bolts
7. change rotors if needed. use the sander if they are pretty good.
8. clean your hands and put on neoprene gloves
9. get the brake pads and install them in the caliper
10. make sure the pads are seated and slide them on top of the rotor.
11. tighten the caliper bolts back on the knuckle and check the slider bolts to make sure they are tight
12. put the wheel on and tighten in a criss cross patten.

 

Its kind of hard to compress a caliper piston when the system is sealed. I opened the bleeder valve and compressed it with a giant plumbers wrench and just refilled it as necessary.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CompanyFlow &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Its kind of hard to compress a caliper piston when the system is sealed. I opened the bleeder valve and compressed it with a giant plumbers wrench and just refilled it as necessary. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Just try popping the top off the MC/Resevoir...this should allow you to press the piston back in, and will save you the headaiche that comes with bleeding brakes.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Topher. &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Just try popping the top off the MC/Resevoir...this should allow you to press the piston back in, and will save you the headaiche that comes with bleeding brakes.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

x2

 

I actually tried that my first time around and had to deal with brake fluid spilling everywhere.

 

make sure if u open the bleeder bolt to have a line going into a bottle of brake fluid so you dont get any air in the brake system and end up having a mushy pedal

 

there should be no reason to crack the bleeder unless you are doing a fluid change. find yourself a turkey baster and suck a little out of the master cylinder before you compress. it does help prevent the overflow. if the calipers are seriously frozen they should be replaced though. at that point you might as well bleed the whole system and change fluid. when you bleed start with the furthest from the master cylinder and work up to the closest. keep in mind what the pedal does, it makes the job seem simplier. all the pedal does is push fluid. if it's down your compression, let up and it will suck in air if a valve is open. that's why you pump and hold with the two guy bleed job. only after the valve is closed do you let off the pedal.