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5-lug conversion on a 4th gen--- (for those of you who've already done this or considering this)

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Old Sep 2, 2008 | 01:21 PM
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Default 5-lug conversion on a 4th gen--- (for those of you who've already done this or considering this)

Alright guys, I already read through the thread that was archived as found in the faq. but I have some more questions.

I've got Legend Calipers, Brembo Rotors, and Axxis Pads.

I just picked up 4 spindles from a 97+ prelude from a local junk yard.

So I'm ready to start this this weekend.

I have a few questions before I begin however---

1. A lot of DIY's i've read state that you need to use some sort of washer to help feed enough teeth to get a bolt or two properly seated. To those of you who've gone through tihs converison, could you please tell me the specs on the washers u've used? I want to get exactly what I need from home depot rather than have to modify or use several different ones or make several different trips.

2. My particular spindles have some wear on them, they're useable but a little rusty, any tips on cleaning them up before I put them on?

3. One of the dust covers is missing on one spindle and another is bent up. Can I use the dust covers from my 4th gen? If not, where can I pick some up?

4. I know many of you have done tihs conversion and have had it for quite sometime, do you have any negative comments against it? Anything I should definitly look out for or consider doing now rather than later in terms of the swap?

Thanks in advance!
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Old Sep 3, 2008 | 06:06 AM
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someone must know or know where I can find the info.
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Old Sep 3, 2008 | 06:36 AM
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From: dover, de, use
Default Re: (starbai)

my car already had the swap, but im pretty sure its basic take old one off and put the new one on, the washer is for the axle, or you can just get 5th gen axles.
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Old Sep 3, 2008 | 06:46 AM
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getting and installing 5th gen axles are I'm sure a lot more work than putting in a few washers.

Thanks for the tip.

But I need to get some more info on the washers needed. I just need inner and outer diameter, and the over all thickness needed. (or the combined washer size) some places I've read people using as many as 4 in between, and thats great but 4 of what thickness?

Someone please chime in thats done this, I dont wanna be caught going back and forth to teh store more than I need to.

Plus I dont want to have to modify the washers if I dont have to, I dont want to mess with the structural integrity of em'.
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Old Sep 3, 2008 | 07:17 AM
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From: Further down the spiral, TX, usa
Default Re: 5-lug conversion on a 4th gen--- (starbai)

Use a wire wheel on a drill to get all the rust off, then use some kind of paint-able rust-neutralizer on the metal and either paint them or spray some rustproof on them....rustproof would be a lot better for protection. It's like a rubbery black spray.

Sorry, not sure about your other questions
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Old Sep 3, 2008 | 09:30 AM
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all i've found so far is the following regarding washer size is this:

The dimensions and geometry of the 5th generation knuckles means that the axle extends farther through the knuckle than it does on the stock 4th generation knuckle. As a consequence, the axle nut will run out of threads just before fully seating on the hub face. If you drive the car without correcting this problem, you will eat through wheel bearings pretty quickly (@ about $80 each, plus labor).
Here you can see the axle extending through the hub, without any washer or nut in place:

To correct this issue, I chose to use washers between the axle nut and hub face, so that the axle nut bottoms out on the washer before reaching the end of the threaded portion of the axle. However, the dimensions of this washer need to be fairly specific

OUTER DIAMETER: the washer needs to be small enough to fit into the recess on the hub where the axle nut tightens, while still being larger than the axle nut itself.

INNER DIAMETER: clearly, the inner diameter needs to be large enough to fit over the threaded portion of the axle. However, it also needs to be large enough to fit over the SPLINED portion of the axle. If the inner diameter does not clear the shoulder on the splined portion of the axle, the nut will still be unable to adequately tighter down on the hub.


i figure if anyone has done this they've been able to find the correct size needed without having to modify them.
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