so, car had some issues, specifically valves with chunks missing, swapped out the head for a new one (d15 dpfi), new cap, rotor, plugs, wires, oil. gets fuel, spark, and has compression. now for the problem, car turns over but won't start, timing is dead on. i'm guessing it's something small/retarted but i don't have time to keep looking (single dad), i'm hoping you guys might be able to help me out with a listing of things i should check or ideas. 1990 honda civic wagon dx, EE2 FTW.

 

forgot to mention, it was throwing codes 1,6,10, and 16, we reset the ecu and now it only blinks once when the key is turned. is this a code or is it just a check light to show its working? only blinks once when the key is turned, doesn't continue to blink once over and over

 

did a broken timing belt do that damage? what kind of compression numbers are you seeing with the new head?

 

ARE yousure you have the spark plugs wires in the correct order on the cap???
I did that once..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Maxcapacity &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ARE yousure you have the spark plugs wires in the correct order on the cap???
I did that once..</TD></TR></TABLE>
That happened to me a little while ago, and yes that one light is to show it's working
I know this is the spark plug order for the motor but not sure on the dizzy

[dizzy cap] (motor) timing belt
[43] (4321)
[12]

 

wires are in correct order, already checked that too, not sure if belt broke with previous owner, there was a lot of carbon buildup, our thought was it made it high compression and we got detonation.

compression numbers between 110-130, motor is worn but it should still crank up, with the old head 1,3,4 had 150 and 2 had 0

thanks for the quick responses

 

shouldnt it be (3 4)
(1 2)??? 1342 firing order????

 

it should look like this.

3|4 on the dizzy. and 4321 on the engine.
1 2

check your vacume hoses. make sure they are all hooked up. had a problem with my car starting up and once it was shutdown would not start again unless i reset the ecu. turned out to be a loose vac hose to the map. hope you get it figured out.

 

checked the vac hoses, they all appear to be hooked up. does the dx have a map, where is it? checked the wiring too, don't see anything grounded out, no blown fuses. i'm swapping the fpr tonight...just a hunch. on the dpfi setup, does the green or brown plug go to the main injector (top one)? still looking for some more possibilities....

thanks for the help

 

did u check the pgmfi realay?
spark?
fuel?
u know u have compression....

http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/mainrelay.html

 

main relay is good, i'm getting fuel and it turns over but wont crank. and again yes i checked spark, and compression numbers are 110-130...it should still crank

thank you for your response at least it bumped it unlike the 100+ views where nobody said anything

 

if u get spark, fuel, and compression it should fire.

i would check your timing again and make sure the #1 cylinder is at tdc when you check the timing.

 

that's why we are confused too...

had two other people check the timing as well, both work on cars for a living, it's on...

 

up

 

contact inside are worn out..



check out this thread
http://www.d-series.org/forums...94227


also open the dizzy up and see if anything is loose..

you still selling that trans

 

i've got spark...i'm not to sure it's the dizzy, for some reason i think its fuel related. i forgot to mention my friend was driving it when it died, about 2 min after he started it. fuel tank was low i'm thinking maybe it sucked something up. will replace feul filter tonight and install a fuel pressure gauge to try and get a good diagnosis. thanks for that link, there are a few thinks on there that will be really helpfull

yes, i still have the trans, you got pm

 

if u ran the tank dry, or really relly close u willo fry the fuel pump

 

disconnected the return line, and primed the pump, got about a 1/4 inch of fuel in the bottom of the cup. i was expecting to see a little more, is this right. next i pulled the plug on the number 2 to check for spark, using an old plug i grounded it to the head, first time i turned it over i got combustion out the top of the spark plug well....i've got spark...help????

 

just double checked, everything is connected, no dangling hoses, what are the two plugs on the top side of the manifold along the runners? air filter looks brand new, only a little dirt on the bottom side, come on guys, need some help, putting the kid to bed in 15 then i have about an hour to work on it, give me some more ideas....

 

on the runner is your air temp sensor. and the other might be the eacv(electronic air control valve). what do you mean it turns over but won't crank? the starter engages and turns the motor over, right? or does it not turn the motor?

 

the starter would engage and turn the motor over but it wouldn't fire up and run, i use past tense as i just found the problem and she now runs and is smoking out the complex. i set everything at tdc again and was removing the cap to show the rotor was on #1 (i was going to post pictures for you guys), when i looked at the rotor i noticed it was pointing straight down between 1 and 2 and thought it was kind of weird. upon further inspection i noticed the screw was not in the rotor...this means the shaft was still spinning the rotor and i was still getting spark but it wasn't delivering the spark at the correct time, i found the screw in the dizzy and put it back in and she fired up first time. good thing i went to take pictures first before installing another $100 worth of parts.

thanks to all you guys for your help

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1989rexsi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">also open the dizzy up and see if anything is loose..</TD></TR></TABLE>

hook me up on the trans since we all helped you out