my cousins 88 civic sedan clutch went out. so we got down to putting in a new clutch.

we got an Exedy replacement clutch kit. so i changed out the clutch and the bearing and the throwout bearing on the tranny shaft. im sure it was done right cause i put it in the way it came out.

ive done 4 other clutch jobs and they all came out fine. this car for some reason does not go into gear. ive tighten the clutch cable and no luck. when the car is off it goes into gear but kinda sticky. when the car is on, <u>it doesnt go in at all</u>. and grinds like **** when trying to reverse (but was not forced in)

what could be the problem?

(ive searched bearing, throwout, clutch etc and nothing)

 

There could be a few problems. First, stupid question, but did you put oil into your tranny? Second, did you buy the clutch new or used? If the clutch is used, it could have a cracked pressure plate that is causing the fingers of the pressure plate not to disengage the clutch (this could be the case with a new one too. in that case, it's defective). Also, is there pressure on the clutch pedal when you push it in? If not, the throw out bearing fork on the clutch arm rod could be missing the bolt that goes threw it. And finally, have someone look at the clutch cable arm as you push the clutch in. I would check the cable first before ripping the tranny off, then go from there.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HaulingAddison &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">There could be a few problems.
1 stupid question, but did you put oil into your tranny?
2 did you buy the clutch new or used? If the clutch is used, it could have a cracked pressure plate that is causing the fingers of the pressure plate not to disengage the clutch (this could be the case with a new one too. in that case, it's defective).
3 Also, is there pressure on the clutch pedal when you push it in? If not, the throw out bearing fork on the clutch arm rod could be missing the bolt that goes threw it.
4 have someone look at the clutch cable arm as you push the clutch in. I would check the cable first before ripping the tranny off, then go from there.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

1. yes i did put in oil into the tranny using the 17mm near the axle.
2. clutch was new with pressure plate, disc, bearing for fly and throwout bearing
3. slight pressure almost to nothing. but i did put the 12mm bolt back on the rod under the spring.
4. i had my cousin/brother look at the clutch. it engages up and down. clutch cable is also adjusted.

any other idea?

 

could it be the throwout bearing spring? i mean i compared to a bent springs that i did on another clutch job and it looks ok..

 

help

 

I ran into this problem not to long ago. It ended up being the clutch disk. The disk was poorly machined, but had the correct amount of splines but still got stuck on the input shaft which wouldn't let the clutch disengage.

Was the transmission difficult to bolt up to the block?

Another possible problem, are you sure that you placed the clutch disk in the correct direction? If backwards the clutch disk wouldn't be able to disengage.

Since you've tried everything that doesn't require removing the transmission, i would suggest getting to work and pull it off again.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 90sedan &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I ran into this problem not to long ago. It ended up being the clutch disk. The disk was poorly machined, but had the correct amount of splines but still got stuck on the input shaft which wouldn't let the clutch disengage.

Was the transmission difficult to bolt up to the block?

Another possible problem, are you sure that you placed the clutch disk in the correct direction? If backwards the clutch disk wouldn't be able to disengage.

Since you've tried everything that doesn't require removing the transmission, i would suggest getting to work and pull it off again. </TD></TR></TABLE>

the disk being poorly machined? is that common with Exedy? when i bolted the tranny back up it went in fine besides trying to align the shaft with its teeths holding it in mid air. im sure i put the clutch in the correct position with the non flat part facing out to the passenger side right? cause i did that with other cars and it came out fine. i am going to start to tear it back down so i can get this car out of the way.

any idea on the spring? better to just replace it anyways?

 

I have the same problem with my crx..after the new clutch change was grinding like a mother beeper...so the cause of it was mainly due to the clutch cable..somehow its not adjusted properly to disengage the clutch disc..so here is what I did..try to get a buddy to help you out...loosing the clutch cable to the minimum all the way..then once loosing the cable have a buddy to step in the clutch and try to put it in gear..make sure you or your buddy dont force it ..if you do you might mess up the throwout bearing...once he step on the clutch and try to put in gear...if he cant then adjust the cable..tight it alittle more..and try to put it in gear again..keep doing this until it goes into to gear..after that it should solve the problem...if not try to get a new clutch cable your cable might be stretch..hope it help

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by My_EFsedan &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

the disk being poorly machined? is that common with Exedy? when i bolted the tranny back up it went in fine besides trying to align the shaft with its teeths holding it in mid air. im sure i put the clutch in the correct position with the non flat part facing out to the passenger side right? cause i did that with other cars and it came out fine. i am going to start to tear it back down so i can get this car out of the way.

any idea on the spring? better to just replace it anyways?</TD></TR></TABLE>

My problem wasn't with an Exedy clutch. However, its unlikely that this is your problem. Well, i would double check to make sure that the disk is in the correct direction, sounds as if it is (springs on disk facing transmission?) and double check to make sure all of the pressure plate bolts are torqued, if loose, they could cause the disk to not disengage.

The spring should be fine, but inspect the release bearing movement and if it doesn't appear to be moving far enough replace the spring as it might not have enough tension.

 

i have had this problem with another brand of clutch a 6 puck stick it in gear and drive it around the disc just needs to break in or u can start it and try and slip the clutch i just drove down the road for a few mins and it begain to losten right up with no problems

 

hmmm. you should also upgrade the flywheel. it could possibly the flywheel not torqued right and just floating around.

i could be wrong.

 

i got around to remove the tranny and the clutch today..clutch was placed properly. bearing was placed properly. spring is looks good/straight

i used this
http://www.geocities.com/senpa....html

i out of ideas of "why wouldnt it go into gear"

 

when car is running? or not running?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by natedawg500 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">when car is running? or not running?
</TD></TR></TABLE>

gear goes in sticky when off, and when on doesn't go in AT ALL.

 

put in reverse or 1st. start the car let the clutch out and go. This is common on LS1-t56 cars... Not sure why they do it though.

Drive it around and switch through the gears after that should be fine. Just don't hit anything the car might move a little bit when u start it in gear but the brakes will hold the car.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by natedawg500 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">put in reverse or 1st. start the car let the clutch out and go. This is common on LS1-t56 cars... Not sure why they do it though.

Drive it around and switch through the gears after that should be fine. Just don't hit anything the car might move a little bit when u start it in gear but the brakes will hold the car. </TD></TR></TABLE>

kinda confused on that..slap it in 1st and drive like that? and " just dont hit anything" what do you mean? sometimes i smell a burnt smell when driving on 1st (after slapping in 1st and start the car) but dont know if thats anything with the clutch/tranny..but havent attempted to shift to second..the pedal kidna grabs pretty high still?

 

I dunno my 240 with a LS1 swap had some issues with the car going in gear when running. So I started it in gear drove it down the road a few times. Worn the clutch in and was fine from then on out. Burn smell is the clutch. Adjust the cable first though. prob just need to wear the clutch in I've never had this prob. in a honda though.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by natedawg500 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I dunno my 240 with a LS1 swap had some issues with the car going in gear when running. So I started it in gear drove it down the road a few times. Worn the clutch in and was fine from then on out. Burn smell is the clutch. Adjust the cable first though. prob just need to wear the clutch in I've never had this prob. in a honda though. </TD></TR></TABLE>

are you sure about this one?? cause i inspected everything and its fine. i mean imma put everything back and hope this technique of yours work cause i dont want to uninstall everything for the 3rd time.

 

Tighten your clutch cable back up bro - all the way.

You need several inches of movement from the arm for it to activate proper with the engine running. Pull up hard on the lever and then tighten the adjustment nut down nice and snug.

I just had the EXACT same problem/symptoms after a clutch job. I was like WTF for two days before I tightened the clutch cable up all the way (not just snug, but tight).

If you're still having problems you probably have a stretched clutch cable.

For what it's worth, I've never heard of having to "wear" the clutch in. Especially on a Honda. Some cars with 500 lb ft tq might need this done, or if it's on some sort of heavy duty application, but you should not in ANY capacity expect to have to do this with an replacement clutch.




Modified by Jonathan_ED3 at 8:53 PM 9/7/2008

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Jonathan_ED3 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Tighten your clutch cable back up bro - all the way.

You need several inches of movement from the arm for it to activate proper with the engine running. Pull up hard on the lever and then tighten the adjustment nut down nice and snug.

I just had the EXACT same problem/symptoms after a clutch job. I was like WTF for two days before I tightened the clutch cable up all the way (not just snug, but tight).

If you're still having problems you probably have a stretched clutch cable.


</TD></TR></TABLE>

done that..im starting to think its the stretched cable..cause the clutch pedal does release high..

 

It's gotta be a stretched cable or you don't have it adjusted tight enough. I'm really thinking to recheck the adjustment because a cable doesn't just wear out in the time period it takes to change the clutch.

It was working before you swapped them out right? Then it should work now. You didn't go with like a three thousand pound pressure plate did you? It's a stock Exedy/fake ebay unit? Those things can be engaged with sewing thread.

Do you have a spare cable lying around you could try?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Jonathan_ED3 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It's gotta be a stretched cable or you don't have it adjusted tight enough. I'm really thinking to recheck the adjustment because a cable doesn't just wear out in the time period it takes to change the clutch.

It was working before you swapped them out right? Then it should work now. You didn't go with like a three thousand pound pressure plate did you? It's a stock Exedy/fake ebay unit? Those things can be engaged with sewing thread.

Do you have a spare cable lying around you could try?</TD></TR></TABLE>

its my cousins car, from what he said was the car just one day didnt want to start (its daily driven) he bought a new starter and it wasnt that. while at the same time i had changed my sisters BF clutch and it was the same symptom my cousin had. so my cousin decided to go buy a clutch and change that out. its a legit Exedy clutch kit. (bearing for fly and tranny, disc and pressure plate) so we replaced that and this problem accures.

before did the clutch job the car wont turn on. it was like turning the key to on and trying to crank over without the clutch pedal being pressed on (but it was stepped on). when we push start the car and drive it the car doesnt grab til the clutch pedal being almost all the way up.

when we did the clutch we had tighten the cable to the point to where the threads are nearly gone? (tighten all the way)..i might have a spare clutch cable around so imma try that.

 

Sounds like the clutch cable was already stretched by the time you ever touched the car. New clutch possibly pushed it over the limit.

I'm curious as to why you guys changed the clutch because the car wouldn't start, though?

It's an EF - did he think to check the main relay?

Your sisters BF car wouldn't start so you changed the clutch? ?

Not seeing a connection here bro!!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Jonathan_ED3 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Sounds like the clutch cable was already stretched by the time you ever touched the car. New clutch possibly pushed it over the limit.

I'm curious as to why you guys changed the clutch because the car wouldn't start, though?

It's an EF - did he think to check the main relay?

Your sisters BF car wouldn't start so you changed the clutch? ?

Not seeing a connection here bro!!</TD></TR></TABLE>

seems like it was already stretched before i got to work on it. cause it had grabbed so high when releasing. the new clutch probably did put an end to the clutch cable because that was probably the issue the whole time. i got to work cause he had the problem and already bought the kit (he doesnt know too much about cars) so i went ahead and just did the work for him. i didnt read about stretched cables til last month and it came to mind that it just might be the problem cause i never knew the cable could stretch.

my sister's bf car started up one night when he was leaving my house..started up put in 1st drove..reversed for a 3pt turn..suddenly doesnt go into 1st and the rest of the gears..read a bit and every one ht that replied said clutch went out. so i got an exedy clutch and did that. car drover perfectly since. and his clutch was completely gone.

so my cousin took his story and matched it with his problem which made him come down to a new clutch kit. but!! this whole time it seems that the problem was the CABLE! but i will confirm once the other cable is on

 

i dont know what the hell is wrong. i changed the clutch cable with another from an 88 crx si i had..still doesnt solve the problem.

but this time im able to drive the car down the street by sticking it in 1st and then start the car. i can go through all the gears. when stopped. back to square one. what is the problem??

the car is an 88 civic sedan. the tranny was switched out by last owner with an 89 L3 tranny which has different spine (20 spines) we bought the clutch for an 88 but didnt fit. so we returned and got a clutch kit for the 89 tranny..i dont know if the owner replaced the flywheel too? and does that matter? and does the fly matter for the starter as well?