B16 flooding
Just tried to crank over my 88 crx Si with a 1st gen b16 in it, and just got the vtec wiring hooked up to the pr3 ecu. Cranked the starter switch...turning over turning over...CLANK...Tried starting it again...CLANK, no turnover at all. Check the plug connections, grounds, fuses, obstructing materials in the engine bay. None. Tried to push start it. No go.
Turns out when pushing the car back into my garage i noticed liquid poaring out of the front passenger side corner of the bumper. It was fuel. Popped the hood, looked around, couldn't understand why fuel was coming out of the corner of the bumper. Took off the intake to get a better look, found out it was fuel from the intake filled up intake manifold. My friends who have done multiple swaps as well as a good friend who is a mechanic is at a loss for what it could be. This has happened before with another b16 ecu, so i don't think it is the ecu itself, but perhaps electrical problems. I noticed the injector resistor box got incredibly hot ecen thought he engine never started.
Could it be that the fuel pressure is somehow so high that the stock fuel pressure regulator (i have not replaced the stock FPR with an aftermarket one just yet) isn't allowing fuel to exit on the return line? Any/all advice on this matter would be most appreciated.
p.s. - I have managed to get the fuel out of the intake manifold and the cylinders, so that is not a problem at the moment.
Turns out when pushing the car back into my garage i noticed liquid poaring out of the front passenger side corner of the bumper. It was fuel. Popped the hood, looked around, couldn't understand why fuel was coming out of the corner of the bumper. Took off the intake to get a better look, found out it was fuel from the intake filled up intake manifold. My friends who have done multiple swaps as well as a good friend who is a mechanic is at a loss for what it could be. This has happened before with another b16 ecu, so i don't think it is the ecu itself, but perhaps electrical problems. I noticed the injector resistor box got incredibly hot ecen thought he engine never started.
Could it be that the fuel pressure is somehow so high that the stock fuel pressure regulator (i have not replaced the stock FPR with an aftermarket one just yet) isn't allowing fuel to exit on the return line? Any/all advice on this matter would be most appreciated.
p.s. - I have managed to get the fuel out of the intake manifold and the cylinders, so that is not a problem at the moment.
If the engine cannot be spun by the Starter, dont force it.
I guarantee you you will bend the connecting rods.
Drain the flooded fuel out of the cylinder through the spark plug whole.
Remove each injectors and try to crank (with no spark plug so u dont get hydrolock). IF the injector pulses then ur fine. If it stays open and just pours fuel, u have to check wiring.
Keep a lot of rag beside u as you will make a mess with the injector spraying fuel. Disconnect power to distributor so there will be no spark.
I guarantee you you will bend the connecting rods.
Drain the flooded fuel out of the cylinder through the spark plug whole.
Remove each injectors and try to crank (with no spark plug so u dont get hydrolock). IF the injector pulses then ur fine. If it stays open and just pours fuel, u have to check wiring.
Keep a lot of rag beside u as you will make a mess with the injector spraying fuel. Disconnect power to distributor so there will be no spark.
As i had said above, i know how to remove fuel that has flooded the engine, and succeeded, i shot fuel 12 feet in the air by using the d16 stock pm6 ECU and turning over the crank after draining out all the oil/gas int he oil pan and putting jsut enough new oil in to show up on the dip stick, then started turning the engine over, worked great. I just wish i could pinpoint the problem, if it is either electrical or fuel track
It would be weird to have an electrical problem holding the injectors open... and easy to diagnose with a $20 multimeter. Just check for voltage between the pins on the injector clips. Your injectors are probably stuck open.
Cranking the engine over by hand if the thing won't turn by starter won't bend your rods... c'mon how strong do you think you are?
You'll be bending the valves, not the rods. If your starter's clicking but not turning then it's probably gone.
Cranking the engine over by hand if the thing won't turn by starter won't bend your rods... c'mon how strong do you think you are?
You'll be bending the valves, not the rods. If your starter's clicking but not turning then it's probably gone.
After i use the multimeter and find out the resistances and such, and if in fact the injectors are stuck open, what would be the solution? Put in a different functioning injector resistor pack?
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If you're getting a constant signal then the injectors are probably fine but the problem's in your wiring, god knows where. If your injectors are stuck open then the wiring's probably fine, but the injectors need replacing/servicing.
I had a similar problem in my b16 in 91 hatch. Cylinder #2 and #4 were flooding with fuel. The problem was that the wire that ran from the ecu to injector #2 and the wire running from the ecu to injector #4 were exposed and shorting out on the intake manifold. What I might do:
run 4 brand new wires from the ecu to the 4 injectors
I wouldn't suspect that anything is wrong with the injector resistor box. Hope this helps.
run 4 brand new wires from the ecu to the 4 injectors
I wouldn't suspect that anything is wrong with the injector resistor box. Hope this helps.
Very interesting. The one thing i cannot understand is that the engine runs well with the 88 crx Si pm6 ecu, minus the obvious problems such as no vtec and a third less power, but no fuel filling the cylinders and intake manifold. That's the part that throws me off.
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