1994 Integra GSR.
Skunk 2 Full coilovers
New inner and outer tie rods
New upper control arms
New CV Shafts
New lower Ball joints
New Front end polyurethane bushings on everypart including sway bar.
New front sway bar end links
New Rear LCA's with Poly bushings
New rear sway bar bushings
New rear sway bar end links
New 205-50-15 Kumho ATX tires

Car just got aligned after all these new parts and seems to handle as poorly as with the old stuff. Doesnt want to go into corners and when it does it feels like the rear is gonna swing around sideways. Like the front and the rear of the car are not connected? Any ideas? Im stumped

 

I'm guessing you're still riding on your OEM shocks mated with the S2 Coils. Dump those and get yourself a set of koni/GC's with stiffer spring rates. Swap out your toothpick LS rear sway bar and throw on a ITR rear sway bar with a Subframe reinforcement kit and your set.

 

No I have the full coilover setup from skunk 2. I do have the stock rear sway bar with an SSR Rear under tie bar though. I had an 01 GSR before this with stock suspension with the exception of KYB AGX's mated with Sprint springs and it would out handle this like no tomorrow.

 

just like the guy above said.. try to stiffen up your chassis more.. strut bars or whatever helps!

 

I think Something else is the issue here. The car bone stock should handle fairly well. I had a 2006 Scion TC and it would eat this 94 GSR alive in handling.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by precisionsc54 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">1994 Integra GSR.
Skunk 2 Full coilovers
New inner and outer tie rods
New upper control arms
New CV Shafts
New lower Ball joints
New Front end polyurethane bushings on everypart including sway bar.
New front sway bar end links
New Rear LCA's with Poly bushings
New rear sway bar bushings
New rear sway bar end links
New 205-50-15 Kumho ATX tires

Car just got aligned after all these new parts and seems to handle as poorly as with the old stuff. Doesnt want to go into corners and when it does it feels like the rear is gonna swing around sideways. Like the front and the rear of the car are not connected? Any ideas? Im stumped

</TD></TR></TABLE>

I see no mention of new trailing arm bushings. Old, torn, TA bushings could explain the behavior that I bolded.

 

What pressure do you run your tires at? Do you have stock front sway bar and stock rear lower control arms with no rear lower tie bar?

 

Umm I will have the check the tire pressure. I just got everything finally aligned and tires put on today. Front and rear sway bars are stock. Rear LCA's are blox. Sway bar end links are new oem's. Rear tie bar is an SSR piece I had lying around off my 01 GSR.

 

hmm good point I did not replace those. I wasnt quite sure how to get them out. All the rest of the pieces I took to machine shop and had pressed out.

 

i don't know how good those kumho tires are but maybe a set of toyos or better rubber might help. but definately a thicker rear sway bar will give you better handing.

 

thanks for the help but at this point its def something mechanical. Def not tires. Like I said I replaced all these items to try and get rid off this problem and the fact that the car has well over 100,000 miles. So I figured after all this it should be much better. It is to a point but the rear is still exactly the same as before.

 

Try putting a 22mm type r sway bar, tower and tie bar on it, and get better shocks

 

i'm having stock shocks but type r sways, it handles pretty good

 

I have brand new skunk 2 PRO-S coilovers so new struts are not needed

 

I don't think little things like tire pressure are going to matter here. The tires would have to be pretty off-pressure to handle like crap just daily driving (assuming that's what you're doing)

What are your rear spring rates? A heavier rear spring rate plays a large part in the car's handling, some people like them because the stiffer rear springs correct understeer, as does the sway bar, but I'm wondering.. Did you by chance put the back springs on the front and the front springs on the back??? Lift up the car and check the rates, the bigger springs should be up front.

 

The Pro-S setup is 8kg/mm up front and 6kg/mm in the rear. Nothing wrong with the spring rates if you use a 22mm or 23mm rear sway bar to help neutralize the car (assuming relatively stock f/r weight ratio). If they were reversed it could possibly explain some awkward balance, but it wouldn't be terrible.

Trailing arm bushings are the most likely culprit (assuming nothing is bent). They're usually one of the first things I try to tackle when I decide a car needs suspension work. There are aftermarket options that are stiffer than stock but still rubber, and then there are spherical bearings...but we'll save that discussion for a later time.

 

1st thing in the morning Im going to check and see what springs rates are in the front and rear. If all else is good Im going to change the Trailing arm bushings. Whats the easiest way to go here?

 

ok the spring rates are an 8 in the front and a 6 in the rear so thats not the problem. I looked at the trailing arm bushing and they dont look all the way torn out but they do look dry rotted. So Wheres the best place to get a new set? I called acura and they quoted me $70 each side?

 

thats about right i got them for 60$ each a lot beter after instaling them

 

found brand new oem ones on ebay for $70 both sides. Some Honda dealer in Harrisburg

 

try changing the spring to something like 12-10 or 14-12 it might hadeling better

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jonni2000 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">try changing the spring to something like 12-10 or 14-12 it might hadeling better</TD></TR></TABLE>

Not if the trailing arm bushings are shot, it'll only extrapolate the problem by shifting the primary suspension movement from the shocks to the bushings. Also, 12/10 is almost always a bit much for a DD, and 14/12 is bordering on ridiculous.

It seems to me that this type of thinking is the larger problem behind a lot of poorly handling cars. All the emphasis ends up being placed on the obvious components while the less obvious (but equally critical) components go completely untouched. It also accidentally explains the front biased suspension setup. My car has 8kg/mm springs in the rear and it's too stiff, this is because every bushing in the rear suspension is either hard rubber or spherical. 8kg/mm springs are much stiffer than you think, but you'd never know it until you eliminate all the play in every other component. Since the front doesn't have the all important trailing arm bushings (and because it has a lot more weight on it) there's less unwanted play in the first place meaning that equal or stiffer springs might be necessary to neutralize the handling.

Sorry to rant, but I had to get that out there.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Kendall &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Not if the trailing arm bushings are shot, it'll only extrapolate the problem by shifting the primary suspension movement from the shocks to the bushings. Also, 12/10 is almost always a bit much for a DD, and 14/12 is bordering on ridiculous.

It seems to me that this type of thinking is the larger problem behind a lot of poorly handling cars. All the emphasis ends up being placed on the obvious components while the less obvious (but equally critical) components go completely untouched. It also accidentally explains the front biased suspension setup. My car has 8kg/mm springs in the rear and it's too stiff, this is because every bushing in the rear suspension is either hard rubber or spherical. 8kg/mm springs are much stiffer than you think, but you'd never know it until you eliminate all the play in every other component. Since the front doesn't have the all important trailing arm bushings (and because it has a lot more weight on it) there's less unwanted play in the first place meaning that equal or stiffer springs might be necessary to neutralize the handling.

Sorry to rant, but I had to get that out there.</TD></TR></TABLE>

this guy got it thanks for at least posting something that isn't

This was pretty much the first post that had any useful information in it at all in this entire thread. It almost hurt to read the whole thing. He's complaining on the back stepping out and someone actually suggested a bigger rear sway bar???????? If you get new busing for the TA make sure they are stock replacements, there was a good thread in here a few days ago about why it's bad to replace these with poly or spherical.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SleeperGSR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

this guy got it thanks for at least posting something that isn't

This was pretty much the first post that had any useful information in it at all in this entire thread. It almost hurt to read the whole thing. He's complaining on the back stepping out and someone actually suggested a bigger rear sway bar???????? If you get new busing for the TA make sure they are stock replacements, there was a good thread in here a few days ago about why it's bad to replace these with poly or spherical.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Spherical isn't bad in terms of handling. But for a DD it's probably overkill, and won't last as long as rubber under normal daily driving conditions.

Poly is just bad all the way around - doesn't last for crap, binds up, squeaks... all of the above.

 

yeah reading the mis-information in here was terrible.

but yes, go with the trailing arm bushings. if the problem still exists, find out the history of the car. maybe it was rear-ended and the chassis has taken considerable damage to the suspension and everything is more flexible than it was before the accident