Crx oem brake upgrade
Just wanna to know if I could upgrade my 88 crx si front brake assembly with the 90-91 ex sedan? Would it be a complete bolt-on, or do I need to make adjustment??..What do I need let's say, do i need the whole knuckles, hubs, rotors, calipers, etc...to complete the upgrade? Also how bout the rear disc brake from the 90-91 ex would that also work as exchange of my crx drum brake..any answer would be appreciated ..Thanks
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by turbosivtec »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Just wanna to know if I could upgrade my 88 crx si front brake assembly with the 90-91 ex sedan? Would it be a complete bolt-on, or do I need to make adjustment??..What do I need let's say, do i need the whole knuckles, hubs, rotors, calipers, etc...to complete the upgrade? Also how bout the rear disc brake from the 90-91 ex would that also work as exchange of my crx drum brake..any answer would be appreciated ..Thanks</TD></TR></TABLE>
For the fronts the 90-91 Civic EX Front brakes are a direct bolt on.
As far as the rears, the 90-91 EX Civic did not come with rear disc brakes. The perfect fit for your car would be the 90-91 CRX Si rear disc brakes and use the 90-91 CRX Si e-brake cables. You cannot use your stock e-brake cables because the clip that mounts the cable to your brake assembly are different for discs and drums, they will not bolt up.
For the fronts the 90-91 Civic EX Front brakes are a direct bolt on.
As far as the rears, the 90-91 EX Civic did not come with rear disc brakes. The perfect fit for your car would be the 90-91 CRX Si rear disc brakes and use the 90-91 CRX Si e-brake cables. You cannot use your stock e-brake cables because the clip that mounts the cable to your brake assembly are different for discs and drums, they will not bolt up.
I changed my 91 DX brakes to 90 Si, and I used everything. I do know that you'll have to have at least 14" wheels to clear the front calipers.
As far as the rear conversion goes, you need the entire rear trailing arm assembly from an Si. The rear brake lines are also different, so get them from an Si as well; and you need the Si e-brake cables too.
There's an order to taking the trailing arm off. Unbolt the brake lines from the caliper and the bracket on the wheel well. (you'll need a 10mm line wrench because those brake line bolts will round off if you're not careful). Then unbolt the e-brake cables from the back-side of the trailing arm assembly. You need to get some PB Blaster and SOAK all the bolts, maybe a few times, like a day before you do the job. Also, it's a PAIN to do by yourself (which I know from 1st hand experience!!
) , so have a buddy there!
The very first step in removing the trailing arm itself is to get a 14mm, 6pt box wrench and break the bolt at the front of the trailing arm loose. (further down i'll explain why). Then, you need to take the two bolts by the big bushing in the middle of the arm off. They are vertical, 17mm. Then unbolt the upper control arm, by the strut assembly-14mm. The reason you need to do these first is because of the way the bolt at the front of the trailing arm is. By doing it this way, you can "drop" the front of the trailing arm down, which you have to do, because there isn't enough clearance to get the front bolt out if it's up in the cavity in the body.
It's hard to explain, but that front bolt goes into another control arm. Just unbolt the trailing arm from the control arm, don't try to take the control arm off the body, because there's a nut that's inside the unibody, and it can break loose, then you need to cut a hole to get to it and hold it with a box wrench. So just avoid that headache! When you are taking that front bolt out, the whole trailing arm is going to twist (thus the reason for breaking it loose first), so have your buddy wedge something like a thick piece of wood in between the body and the top of the arm to keep it as still as possible. Use a wratcheting box wrench for this, not a socket and a drive.
Then unbolt the 14mm at the end of the lower control arm. Slide the whole assembly off, then get under the car and unbolt the e-brake cables. They are 12mm, and you'll need a 6pt box wrench to get to them (there is almost no clearance because of the gas tank. I even used a pair of channel locks and bent the lip of the gas tank down a little bit to get the bolts back in. When you get under there, you'll see what I mean) Then detach the e-brake cables from the handle itself inside the car. You'll need to remove the plastic trim and pull the carpet down. If this doesn't explain enough, get yourself a shop manual. It's a long job though! Good luck!!!
As far as the rear conversion goes, you need the entire rear trailing arm assembly from an Si. The rear brake lines are also different, so get them from an Si as well; and you need the Si e-brake cables too.
There's an order to taking the trailing arm off. Unbolt the brake lines from the caliper and the bracket on the wheel well. (you'll need a 10mm line wrench because those brake line bolts will round off if you're not careful). Then unbolt the e-brake cables from the back-side of the trailing arm assembly. You need to get some PB Blaster and SOAK all the bolts, maybe a few times, like a day before you do the job. Also, it's a PAIN to do by yourself (which I know from 1st hand experience!!
) , so have a buddy there! The very first step in removing the trailing arm itself is to get a 14mm, 6pt box wrench and break the bolt at the front of the trailing arm loose. (further down i'll explain why). Then, you need to take the two bolts by the big bushing in the middle of the arm off. They are vertical, 17mm. Then unbolt the upper control arm, by the strut assembly-14mm. The reason you need to do these first is because of the way the bolt at the front of the trailing arm is. By doing it this way, you can "drop" the front of the trailing arm down, which you have to do, because there isn't enough clearance to get the front bolt out if it's up in the cavity in the body.
It's hard to explain, but that front bolt goes into another control arm. Just unbolt the trailing arm from the control arm, don't try to take the control arm off the body, because there's a nut that's inside the unibody, and it can break loose, then you need to cut a hole to get to it and hold it with a box wrench. So just avoid that headache! When you are taking that front bolt out, the whole trailing arm is going to twist (thus the reason for breaking it loose first), so have your buddy wedge something like a thick piece of wood in between the body and the top of the arm to keep it as still as possible. Use a wratcheting box wrench for this, not a socket and a drive.
Then unbolt the 14mm at the end of the lower control arm. Slide the whole assembly off, then get under the car and unbolt the e-brake cables. They are 12mm, and you'll need a 6pt box wrench to get to them (there is almost no clearance because of the gas tank. I even used a pair of channel locks and bent the lip of the gas tank down a little bit to get the bolts back in. When you get under there, you'll see what I mean) Then detach the e-brake cables from the handle itself inside the car. You'll need to remove the plastic trim and pull the carpet down. If this doesn't explain enough, get yourself a shop manual. It's a long job though! Good luck!!!
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Have any one ever use the rear trailing-arm assembly from the 94-01 integra..to do the rear brake conversion for the 88-89 crx -civic. I heard they all direct bolt on too, so I just wanna to make sure if it will work as well...thanks
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EL Vap133 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">official-ef8....why would you upgrade your 90 DX to 90 Si brakes if they are the same size? Just wondering.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
:werd:
Plus, they both fit over stock 13" steelies too!
</TD></TR></TABLE>:werd:
Plus, they both fit over stock 13" steelies too!
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alexdog69
Honda CRX / EF Civic (1988 - 1991)
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Apr 15, 2004 03:28 PM




