88 CRX DX w/ MPFI swap
Previous owner did the wiring
I went through and re-did all wiring associated with distributor

Car ran great since the day I got it. Distributor went out, and while replacing it, I decided to re-do the wiring associated with it, just for peace of mind. Replaced it with another used one, has worked without any problems for a good ~6k now. Very happy to have the car back on the road.

When I replaced the distributor, I just used the cap and rotor that were already on it, rather than replacing them with the new ones I had sitting around. Also, I did not set the timing properly. Rather, I just threw the new (used) distributor on, centered it, and called it a day. Like I said, it has run fine for ~6k miles. Over the past 1k miles, it has begun to sputter a little during accel and while maintaining throttle. It will still hold speed no problem, and still has enough power to make it to 110mph (as fast as its ever been able to go haha)... so I attributed the problem to the old cap and rotor wearing out.

Today, I replaced the cap and rotor with a pair of new ones (less than 500 miles). Went to start the car, it will start, run fine for a minute or two, then begin to bog down and RPM-flutter like crazy, until ultimately CEL comes on, and I decide to kill it. I am getting codes 9 (Cylinder Position Sensor) and Code 16 (something about the fuel setup). My wiring for the cylinder position sensor is good, I am certain of that. So what's the deal? I wasn't having any Code 16 problems before I replaced the cap and rotor, so is it just a coincidence?

For what its worth, my key was in and in the "ON" position when I replaced the cap and rotor. I never "sparked" anything (blew a fuse, had wires touch, etc).

Thank you,
Brian

 

bump

 

mabey a bad oxygen sensor? i know that will make um run rough.

 

The cylinder position sensor in inside the dizzy. Replace the dizzy!(nothing to do with cap and rotor) and 16 is fuel injectors

 

I have had ongoing problems with code 16 for sometime now. It is VERY intermitent. With mine however, cyl. 4 was not getting fuel. The injectors themselves were not bad--its the wiring I think. I still have yet to fix this problem, and over the past 4 months of so, the car runs fine! But still throws code 16. Code 16 is the injector signal. Try probing the injector wires for proper resistance maybe?

 

what is your car, obd0 or obd1? resistor box removed? maybe if so.. the wires that have been bunched together from where they use to go to the resistor box have come loose? if your using obd1 injectors.. any more info on your setup?
And do your timing properly

 

ok so i just swapped my b16, and engine runs really good but i got cel 6, 9, 10, and 14 lighting me up... my pw0 is chipped, but my iacv has nothing to connect it to with from my harness and vtec works... what might i do to ix these