And this is what everyone thinks of when they call it bone stock. Stock b18b in my 96 ls, and a stock 2000 b16 head. every internals stock. all i got is a intake and i have stock exhaust and all. i must say. this was very well worth the money. all i need to do is get this thing tuned and rip some times at the track to be truely happy. One problem i am having, wich is why i need tuning any how, is my vtec hits at 6, so i drop in and out of vtec 1st to second, and sometimes third, i have a gsr transmission. for me dropping in and out of vtec 500+ rps and still only losing to my friends full bolt on gsr integra with 2 1/2 piping from header back with b16 transmission by only 1 and a half or 2 car lengths shows that if i open my exhaust, and i get tuned. oh the numbers are gonna shine over that gsr big time. So i was just showing the love for those stock bottom end ls vtecs out there. let me know what you think i should invest in before tuning guys. thanks

 

make sure you dont forget that just cause the head can be taken to 9,000rpms doesnt meant the bottom end can.

have fun with it there a blast, and if you going na i would throw some itb's on it.

 

i aint going for mass power lol. itbs are a no thanks haha. and i know. i only take the stock bottom end to 7500-7800 thanks tho man

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GEOz2k7 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i aint going for mass power lol. itbs are a no thanks haha. and i know. i only take the stock bottom end to 7500-7800 thanks tho man</TD></TR></TABLE>
I wouldn't even take it that high personally. 7500 at the most, but 7800? That's pushing it for bone stock internals. But eh, it's your car, do what you want with it. Glad you're enjoying it!

 

Your block wont hold up for long, you probably already know that tho. That has to suck loosing to your buddy with a fully bolt on gsr, that means you are probably going to be in the 15's. Stock integra's run 15's I dont see how that could make you happy or think its worth your money. I swear HT has some of the dumbest people in the world. Thats what keeps me coming back tho

 

get arp rod bolts. gsr water and oil pump. then you can take it up to 8 safely. and once again, tune tune tune.

 

Ls/vtec are really fun. You sthould look into ARP rod bolts and P30 pistons. Remember you got a stock bottomend, vtec heads work alot better with higher compression. You would have no problem beating your friend with those parts. I had a stock gsr head on my LS bottomend with just b16 pistons and a chipped ecu ran 13.97 street tires on my teg. Had just an intake. STock header and exhaust.

Have FUN! Be Safe!

 

get it tuned and lower the vtec engagement point, and swap out the gsr tranny for a b16 w/lsd, than you'll be cruising pass your buddy with ease.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GEOz2k7 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i aint going for mass power lol. itbs are a no thanks haha. and i know. i only take the stock bottom end to 7500-7800 thanks tho man</TD></TR></TABLE>

WOW, thats ballsy on a stock bottom end with no rodbolt upgrades. I have ARP 8mm rodbolts with a stock B16 valvetrain and no blockgirdle but I rarely push it to 7500.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Spoon84 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">get it tuned and lower the vtec engagement point, and swap out the gsr tranny for a b16 w/lsd, than you'll be cruising pass your buddy with ease. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I gotta USDM 97 spec ITR tranny with the same gearing as the B16, but after driving it I'd rather have GSR w/LSD. Its annoying crusing at 50-60 reving over 4000 in 4th, plus with the extra torque of an LS/V I think a GSR tranny would be a better marriage unless you source a JDM ITR tranny, then you have the best of both worlds.

 

Nice to hear that your enjoying it, im personally looking to ls/v by early next year with some mild upgrades.

grats :] gl with those tuning #'s

 

Wait let me get this straight,

You can vtec an LS with stock LS pistons and just throw on a GSR or B16 head some new ARP bolts, GSR water and oil pump and than tune it and you will be done?

why does that sound so much easier than all of those threads where people give a list of like 20 different things you need to get in order to safely drive an LS/V?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDMkid98ls &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Wait let me get this straight,

You can vtec an LS with stock LS pistons and just throw on a GSR or B16 head some new ARP bolts, GSR water and oil pump and than tune it and you will be done?

why does that sound so much easier than all of those threads where people give a list of like 20 different things you need to get in order to safely drive an LS/V?

</TD></TR></TABLE>

Because theres machine work involved with a few things,

1. ARP rodbolts require more torque because of there tensile strength, so by adding more torque to the rod bolts this alters the shape of the rod journal and cap to a more oval vs circular shape putting it out of spec. You need to machine a few thousandths worth of material off the rod-end to get proper clearance with ARP's or your likely damage your crank using them without the preparation.

2. You must tap and plug the original VTEC oil hole which is easy since most can buy the appropriate drill bit and tap at there local Hardware store.

3. The Intake dowels need to be machined within a small but accurate tolerance to mount the head on an LS block <U>unless</U> you use the more and more popular Golden Eagle, Full Race, and other name brand LS Vtec kits which usually start you off with tapered dowels (so you can mount the head on the Exhaust side of the block to avoid any machining) and other DIY components to make the project easier.

The list goes on as to lengths some people go to strengthen there setup's, but these are a few of the necessary areas that need to be prepped in order to last or work at all.


Modified by DC_Legacy at 1:31 PM 8/28/2008

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Rickdrizzle &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">get arp rod bolts. gsr water and oil pump. then you can take it up to 8 safely. and once again, tune tune tune.</TD></TR></TABLE>

gsr oil pump is the same as his 96 ls oil pump

and i hope he changed out the timing belt and water pump for the vtec ones

if i were him i would buy another ls block to start building up for when he eventually over revs the ls rods

good start though and im sure you wont regret going ls vtec

 

are they smog legal and pass reff?

 

sry i have not responded had no computer been moving houses no internet. but i have the stock ls oil and water pump. i now have bumped up to a type r header, 2.5 catback, intake, and i am gonna be getting tuned soon or a b20 bottom end. Maybe a gsr bottom, i love the torque. but man i wanna rev high to, and i aint got the money to balance the entire bottom end wich is costly of around 750 for it done at my local machine shop who has a very reputable name. right now i aint punching it just going to work and back, and it runs like a champ. going to save up and get me new suspension, solid mounts, and maybe a b16 transmission before i tune and or do any other mods. Seeing as i am just waiting for that so i can go to the track in the next 6-7 months. but i can honestly say, with opening up the exhaust a lot of power has been added since i ran my friends gsr. i think i will get him. just to much to lose right now, i am waiting for my license to be off of probation. Thanks for the info guys, if the bottom end goes, more fun begins

 

for u guys who say wow i dont even take mine to 7500. where does ur vtec hit? and what transmission u using? because i have the shittiest problem with dropping out of vtec by like 6-700 rpms and takes forever to get back in to it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EARLdaSQUIRREL &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
if i were him i would buy another ls block to start building up for when he eventually over revs the ls rods
</TD></TR></TABLE>

ls rods are fine, its rod bolts that should be upgraded, im sure thats what u meant.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by beginmyhonda &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">are they smog legal and pass reff?</TD></TR></TABLE>

yes. running no o2, chipped with crome

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GEOz2k7 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">for u guys who say wow i dont even take mine to 7500. where does ur vtec hit? and what transmission u using? because i have the shittiest problem with dropping out of vtec by like 6-700 rpms and takes forever to get back in to it.</TD></TR></TABLE>

im running b16 gears, vtec engagement at 6.5k. cut off is set at 9.5k. try adding a lightened flywheel and pressure plate along with a short throw so rev matching is a breeze, but if youre gonna do all that you might as well rebuild and do everything right in the first place.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GEOz2k7 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">sry i have not responded had no computer been moving houses no internet. but i have the stock ls oil and water pump. i now have bumped up to a type r header, 2.5 catback, intake, and i am gonna be getting tuned soon or a b20 bottom end. Maybe a gsr bottom, i love the torque. but man i wanna rev high to, and i aint got the money to balance the entire bottom end wich is costly of around 750 for it done at my local machine shop who has a very reputable name. right now i aint punching it just going to work and back, and it runs like a champ. going to save up and get me new suspension, solid mounts, and maybe a b16 transmission before i tune and or do any other mods. Seeing as i am just waiting for that so i can go to the track in the next 6-7 months. but i can honestly say, with opening up the exhaust a lot of power has been added since i ran my friends gsr. i think i will get him. just to much to lose right now, i am waiting for my license to be off of probation. Thanks for the info guys, if the bottom end goes, more fun begins </TD></TR></TABLE>

Damn that's pricey. My machinist balanced and assembled my last block for $400 Over 25k miles and still running strong

 

to keep your budget simple stick with the GSR tranny you have.. a b16 will only give you bad gas mileage, put more wear and tear on your block and also cruise at major RPM on the freeway.. GSR is perfect for the LS bottom end. Forget the ARP rod bolts and all of that if you are looking to save money. Have your engine package tuned and set the Vtec engagement to like 4800 RPM and dont go past the stock redline of the LS block. Anything past 7 grand and its going to blow. Not if, WHEN. Vtec from 48-7 isnt bad at all. I personally think you went to large with a 2.5 exhaust.. i mean your not running a turbo setup man wtf lol.. anyway good luck with everything AND DONT TAKE THAT BEAST PAST 7 PLEASE or you will be like everyone else and their mother thinking they can rev to like 8 grand on a stock LS block.. Gee Gee...

 

tune the car to make more power duh