First thing first, a relay is wired in if you want a certain function to be "killed" if the alarm is set off.

Therefore is this the right way of wiring a starter kill relay. Alarm is going on an AP1.

Input is appreciated.

 

If you have an alarm/remote start combo unit then yes, kind of....

The above assumes #30 is the ign. switch side and #87a is the starter side.

#85 would not be a 12V+ constant, it would be either "true" ign., [hot in run and start] or it would be start, [hot in start only].

The starter kill output an most alarms is "ground out when armed", if #85 is 12V+ constant the relay would be on any time the alarm is armed, if you use true ign. or start, [you can even "jump" from #30 to #85 with a very small thin wire] the only time the relay will energize is if someone tries to start the car when it is armed or alarming. 94

 

Its a 2 way clifford. Not using the remote start though. So i should switch 30 and 85?
30 would be the 12V+ constant and 85 is the ignition switch side.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fcm &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
The starter kill output an most alarms is "ground out when armed", if #85 is 12V+ constant the relay would be on any time the alarm is armed, if you use true ign. or start, [you can even "jump" from #30 to #85 with a very small thin wire] the only time the relay will energize is if someone tries to start the car when it is armed or alarming. 94</TD></TR></TABLE>

More explanation please. Thanks

 

You would do nothing with #30, it is only #85 that needs to change, it can not be a 12V+ constant or relay will be energized, [on] whenever alarm is armed, #85 needs to be "true" ign. or start.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by kleen98accord &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">More explanation please. Thanks</TD></TR></TABLE>

Explanation of what? 94

 

hmm how should i wire this up now?

 

Wire it exactly like you show in the diagram except change the 12V+ constant on #85 to a switched, "true" ign., [hot in run and start] or a start, [hot in start only]. 94

 

hmm. Can i put the 12v+ on 87? Im lost. What should be the hot wire. The starter)

 

No you can not put 12V+ on #87, [#87 is not used for this starter cut setup].

"Hot" refers to a lead/wire that is live or on, EG; an acc, wire is "hot" or on, when ign. switch is turned to acc. or run, an ign. wire is "hot" or on, when ign. switch is turned to run or start, a starter wire is "hot" or on, when the ign. switch is turned to start, a constant 12V+ wire is "hot" or on, all the time, even if ign. switch is off.

As I said, wire the relay exactly like the pix/diagram you showed, but instead of using a 12V+ constant, [red lead on #85] change that to a 12V+ true ign., [hot or on, when ign. switch is turned to run or start]
You can also use a start lead, [hot or on, when ign. switch is turned to start] to #85, the easiest way to use a start wire is to just use a jumper wire from #30, [where you have connected the ign. switch side of the cars starter wire]. 94

 

Ohhhh... I get it now. Thanks man.

So for a fuel pump kill would it wire up like this

pin 30- pump side of fuel wire
pin 87a- other side of wire
pin 85- alarm ground when armed (orange)
pin 86- ? HAHA. Im stuck on this on.

 

For a fuel pump kill just install a switch, [hidden] on the ground, [black lead] to the PGM-FI Main Relay, it will shut down the fuel pump, fuel injectors, one of the powers to the ECU/ECM and a few engine sensors, the ground is low current, [under 250mA] so a small, easily hidden, switch can be used. 94

 

Hmm... Yeah thats a lot easier though. But I rather have it killed if the alarm is set off.

 

Better that it is a "redundant" kill switch then controlled by the alarm, that way if they beat the alarm they still can't start the car, even if they have the keys and remote. 94

 

Where would the PGM-FI Mail Relay be on a MY00 Ap1?

So it would be better to install a switch for the fuel kill. Hit the switch when i get out and arm the car? That means when i get back in, i have to hit the switch again huh.

Fuel pump kill switch is fairly easy to wire right? Isn't it located in the Sercurity FAQ.

Im also going to do an ECU kill as well.

Thanks FCM.

 

First, what is an 00 Ap1?

Yes You will need to turn the switch off and on, unless you install "latching relays" on the ground to the PGM-FI Main Relay, then it would "arm" itself when you turn off the ign. and you would just need to hit a momentary switch/button to "disarm" it.
As I said, it is a better layer to the overall security not have the switch/relays controlled by the alarm, it would mean another layer a crook would have to get by to steal the car, cutting the ground to the PGM-FI Main Relay also cuts one of the powers to the ECU/ECM.

As far as I know the fuel kill switch in Security FAQ is a relay, [or switch] on the fuel pumps power wire and is easily bypassed by running power directly to the fuel pump plug under the back seat, and although the same can be done with a kill switch on the ground to the PGM-FI Main Relay, [the fuel pump can be powered directly] it will not help as the fuel injectors are also "killed" along with one of the powers to the ECU/ECM.

I have a top of the line Alpine alarm with starter disable, a redundant kill switch on the PGM-FI Main Relays ground and a redundant latching relay on my main ign. lead, it is a very effective anti theft system, yes I have to flick a switch and press a momentary button, [both well hidden] when I get into the car before I can start it, but so would a crook, after he has defeated the stealth installed Alpine alarm. 94

 

00 Ap1 is a 2000 S2000. A hidden switch isn't so bad to wire up. Yeah seems like the PGM-FI kill is pretty effective.

 

You need to get an alarm so you can be paged when someone cuts your top and tries to steal your seats!