My prelude has been boosted now since July 2007. It is now over a year later and the car is still running fine. This prelude is a daily driver. My first setup was a Greddy 18G turbo setup. I am currently on a different setup made to reach my power goals, which change from time to time. Anyway, its now time for me to put in my built engine and complete this performance nightmare lol. Most people that boost their cars find out that its not always a Cristal staircase. Matter a fact the oil seal on my 18G turbo went to crap which is what pushed me to switch setups.

The point of this car is to be a DD... always has been. I have two built engines ready to be put in... one is a Built 9.5:1 2.2L H22 and the other is a 9:1 2.4L H22. I think I have decided to go with the 2.4L. I plan to run low boost and to achieve around 330-350whp. I remember that this is a FWD street car... I dont feel the need for 400's +. My goal for my car has turned from being a fast DD to being a quick and most importantly, reliable dd. Here is my current setup:

- Precision SC6152e .63 a/r Turbo
- Revhard Manifold
- Greddy RS BOV
- Greddy 31V Intercooler
- Greddy Intercooler piping (Modified)
- Energy Suspension Motor Mount Inserts
- Precision 1000cc Injectors
- Chipped P28 / Crome
- Walbro 255

My two engines:

- 2.2L Built Block: (JE 9.5:1 Pistons, Darton M.I.D Sleeves (87mm), Scat forged rods, Micro-polished crank)
- 2.4L Built Block: (89mm Ductile Iron Sleeves, Arias 9:1 Pistons, Crower 4340 Steel Billet Rods, O-ring grooved block, Balance Shaft Oiling Holes Plugged)

Here are some pics from when it was first boosted and how it sits now... awaiting a transplant.







And now... yea shes dirty but I dont care lol
















Modified by ProjectBB6 at 7:25 PM 8/21/2008

 

sweet, which one too choose....what are you expecting on making? want to sell me one of the blocks haha. (seriously)

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Prudz_lude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">sweet, which one too choose....what are you expecting on making? want to sell me one of the blocks haha. (seriously)</TD></TR></TABLE>
"I plan to run low boost and to achieve around 330-350whp."

looks good frompa

 

Did you strap garden trim to your sideskirts and lip? eww hahah

The engine build is nice though

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by classified &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Did you strap garden trim to your sideskirts and lip? eww hahah

The engine build is nice though</TD></TR></TABLE>

it's actually garage door weatherstripping and it looks good. functional too. everything's lookin' good. can't wait to see the results.

 

If it's your dd why don't you run higher compression and use a smaller turbo for better response.

 

I am glad you asked that question. With my current 10:1 setup my car sees full boost at around 3500 rpms. That is another reason the revhard manifold I am using is ideal for this build. Not only will it spool my turbo faster than any other manifold I can get my hands on, but it also alows me to keep my AC. The only downfall to the manifold is that it wont give me as much power as a longer EQ tubular.

If you guys recall Ludetech made 333whp @ 10psi with this exact same size sc61 on stock block... using a large tubular manifold.

With the 2.4L 9:1 ... I give my self a quick spool and a huge margin for error (knock) at low boost. It will also maybe give me a little more low end trq . Trust me... this turbo is absolutely amazing on the street. It doesn't spool too quick and rob you of gas mileage but the power is always there when you need it. My gas mileage now is pretty much the same as it was when I was n/a depending on how I drive the car.

 

the 2.4L by itself should make off boost feel amazing. Ask me how i know

looking good buddy. I would definitely go with the 2.4L block

 

how do you know lol

 

btw, i really hope you are planning on doing all the install stuff like the head, engine swap...etc because some documentation as many of us have done with build threads is damn near required and gives more examples of how things are done. I mean after all, everyone is here to learn

please go with a better engine management.

 

My opinion is also to run the 2.4l and I have seen that turbo make 410-515 on a 2.2 and 2.34 comparatively, so I would say 350 is a safe easy number for a DD with that setup, and as Blake said, tune very well!

 

my main ? is will i be safe boosting 7.5 psi on my stock h22?

 

yes, search. Keep those kind of questions out thanks.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ethereal2pt2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

it's actually garage door weatherstripping and it looks good. functional too. everything's lookin' good. can't wait to see the results. </TD></TR></TABLE>
I can make a piece of a garbage can functional but I'm still not going to do it.

Nice HID retro are they TSX projectors?

 

goooooddd Im jealous

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by classified &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I can make a piece of a garbage can functional but I'm still not going to do it.

Nice HID retro are they TSX projectors?
</TD></TR></TABLE>

okay? lol then don't? no one is forcing you to? as for project and myself, when you drive a lowered car along with the lip kit, it is very hard not to scape, and i didn't exactly plan on spending all that time and money into painting it, just so i can do it all over again two weeks later. i say it's functional because it prevents the lip itself from scraping and takes the beating instead, which only costs 9 bucks so oh well. that and i think project would agree with me is that it looks very clean. especially on his black lude. well to each his own. project, put the 2.2 in and give me your 2.4 now! good stuff man.

iirc those are the e55's

 

Its looking like next week Monday or Tuesday that my car is going in the shop. The 2.4L block has been re honed and has new piston rings in it. While I was waiting I bought some necessary and unnecessary parts to complete the build.

It is official the 2.4L block is going in. The other 9.5:1 2.2L will be up for sale shortly after we put some brand new bearings in it.



List of parts:

1. ATTS Adapter plate ( for the 2.2L)
2. Kaizenspeed balancer shaft eliminator kit

For those of you who are curious as to what I am waiting on... I am waiting on my brothers 3000GT to get out of the shop. Its been in for a couple of months now after he spun a bearing. He has gone from his twin 13T turbo setup to a single T4 Masterpower T70 setup. The turbo is about the equivalent to a Garret GT4294

Master Power T70 Compressor Wheel:
69.1mm Inducer, 97.8mm Exducer. 50 Trim wheel

Garrett GT4294 Compressor Wheel:
70.3mm Inducer, 94.0mm Exducer. 56 Trim Wheel

 

Nice update. Did the machine shop tell you the specifications they put the bores to?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 98vtec &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Nice update. Did the machine shop tell you the specifications they put the bores to?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I called him up and asked him to measure it. The bore in inches is 3.503. The piston to wall clearance is 1.7 thousandths. I will post pictures of the block tonight. I thought it was assembled already but he is working on that right now. I had a question for you tho. Do you think I will be fine with my Auto tensioner?

Heres another little something I picked up...



List of parts:

1. ATTS Adapter plate ( for the 2.2L)
2. Kaizenspeed balancer shaft eliminator kit
3. Motec 3 Bar map sensor

 

i would not run the autotensioner for more reasons that i really want to explain.

89mm ftw.

that piston to wall clearance appears to be a little on the tight side. From some of the quick searching i did from questioning it, i have yet to see someone running them that tight.

here are a couple threads i was looking at to help you:
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=2337381
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=2028367

RIP Earl

 

Blake I cant thank you enough... you were right. He is fixing it right now free of charge. He is going to rehone it to .0035. Here's some pics of the pistons, rods, crank, and motor. The sleeves look really thin already dont they? I was given the following specs on the motor when I bought it.

Golden Eagle built block (http://www.goldeneaglemfg.com/)
-HD series good for 70psi boost/1300 HP
-89mm Ductile Iron Sleeves
-Arias 9:1 compression Forged Pistons (http://www.ariaspistons.com/)
-Crower 4340 Steel Billet Connecting Rods
-O-ring grooved block
-Balance Shaft Oiling Holes Plugged
All accessories, sensors, and gaskets were replaced with new Honda OEM parts
Oil Pan is included and has a -10an bung welded in. It also has a cap on it so it can be used NA

 

i knew it didnt sound right.

 

nice car...whered u get those eyelids

 

 

wow! super!