I have a 95 JDM h22 in a 94 Accord wired with a OBD1 P13

I've been having a surging idle since i bought the car last week, I have NO idea whats causing it. the top hole in the throttle body is SUCKINg WAY too much air, so much that it will barely start.

I've cleaned the IACV, FITV and ive blocked the EGR valve. I was getting a CEL 8 (TDS sensor) so i replaced the dizzy, no more CEL lights are coming up.

ive turned the idle all the way down and ive played with it to see if i could compensate but i havnt had any luck.

the only thing ive been able to do to fix this is put 3/4ths of my finger over the top hole in the throttle body and it will cause the idle to stop surging and drop to about 700 rpms and it sounds amazing. i can shut off the car and fire it right up if i cover up the hole 3/4ths of the way.

does anyone know what could be causing this?

 

come on someone give me something to work on...

 

bump

 

I mostly work on B and Ds and I'm trying to figure out what hole your talking about on the throttle body. Are you saying there's an open hole on the outside of your throttle body that is sucking in air, is it a hose connected to something, or are you covering up part of the throttle body butterfly to get it to idle normally?

 

I just completely blocked off my IACV and my FITV, and my car idles at 850 rpm like it was stock.

 

the 2 holes inside of the TB, the IACV hole and the FITV hole... my car will idle super high and had problems starting unless i cover 3/4ths of the IACV hole (the top hold)

 

I'm with gib, I'd probably just cover/remove them both, increase your idle and call it a day.

Wait, are you in a state where emissions would frown upon something like that?

 

Western WA, our emissions change by county... im in king, and its pretty strict but hey they only sniff test my car.

just get a piece of aluminumn put it right under the IACV or what?

 

Generally that's what I do, just cut it to shape and nobody will ever see it on there, leave it plugged in and the computer will never know the difference. Holy wow an ugly Jetta just passed by. This is the easiest solution really and what I'd personally do. If you have power steering or A/C still, you may notice the RPMs drop a bit when you turn your wheel or turn your a/c on which is why I will normally idle these cars to 900-950.

 

good call on blocking off the IACV, should i do the FITV too? although the IAVC is blocked im still getting vacuum from the top IACV hole in the TB, i'm not sure if i should be getting that or not.

also, im having horrible timing issues... to the point that the motor doesnt always want to start and even sometimes will attempt to start backwards. its weird, if i rotate the dizzy forward clockwise (towards the radiator) it puts the mark on the flywheel farther from from the sight (closer to firewall), im under the impression that that is advancing the timing? and if the mark was moving the other direction (towards the radiator) it would be retarding the timing.

if i set the dizzy so the mark on the flywheel is lined up with the sight the idle drops and the motor is boggy from 800 to whatever RPM i rev it to, it just misses and at times will backfire and wont even start if i shut it down. it gets worse the closer the mark gets to the sight.

if i go the opposite direction, moving the mark closer to the firewall, the idle speeds up, it starts fairly easy, but will still try to run backwards at times when starting, this is how i have it set now. the motor has power from 1.5-2k to 7k runs great, but if im idling and give it some throttle quickly, it bogs down and miss fires.

I just got this car a week and a half ago, its my first real project, i'm good with electronics, wiring things that can shock you but this kind of stuff. I know the car has the average bolt ons I/H/E, MSD coil, suspension, front and rear strut bars, i pulled the valve cover to paint it just because i was tired of looking at the poor weathered thing while it was off i spaced it and didnt bother looking to see if the cams lined up at TDS, but i did check the timing belt to see if it needed replaced and it definitely didnt, the belt was tight, very, very little play. i did a quick look over the valves and cams. there was barely any ware on the cams themselves, so for all i know it might have aftermarket cams and valves in it, i have no idea.