ok i have a 1993 civic ex with a jdm b16a from hmo in it an im having idle issues with it. The idle when cold is around 1000 to 1200 an when it warms up it jumps to 2000 immediately an dosent go back down. I changed my IACV an checked my FTIV valve an this is still occurring. My question is could it be that my VAFC-II is messin with my idle or maybe my ecu is bad??

also i was looking an the black box on the back of my block, the hose that is supposed to have a PCV valve dosent its jus a straight hose on there could this make my idle be high when the car gets warm or after i rev the engine???
SOMEONE PLEASE HELP ME!!!!

 

it all depends. what ecu u running is the VAFC "tuned" for your setup. any cels?

 

check for vacum leaks

 

vafc is garbage get rid of it

 

cut the vafc out of the harness and clear the ecu, if that doesnt work just go get a chipped ecu and disable all the sensors that arnt needed.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dohczccrx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">vafc is garbage get rid of it </TD></TR></TABLE>

what he said

 

well the vafc was tuned for the b16 when it was supercharged but the kid i got the car from messed up the tune which later on when i got the car blew it up. so i re-built the b16 an took the supercharger off,put in a stock chip for a p30 into my p28 an when i unhook the vafc it throws 2 check engine lights it throws {vtec pressure signal, an map sensor} when i plug the vafc back up it has no CEL


so if i cut it out will it hurt anything also will it still throw the same codes or not??

 

Get rid of you're VAFC And sell it to me....

 

Don't give anyone the VAFC and just burn it, and post it on youtube.

 

that dosent really help me but ok TTT

 

I had a problem like this on my B16… It turned out that the throttle cable was so finely adjusted at the cable mount that when it got hot and expanded a little it was just enough to bring the revs up at a constant 2k rpm. Try loosening it off a couple of turns… I know it sounds stupid but it may just fix it!

 

I had a terrible idle surge for the longest time and it actually was a bad ECU...

 

ok ill try the throttle cable an also i took the vfac-II out an it helped but now its throwing 2 cel's

 

ok i jus took the VAFC out an rewired my ecu plugs (they were crazy from previous owner) an it has no check engine light (yay) but it still idles at about 1800 to 2000! should i jus buy a new IAC??

 

up up up

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Lewie_EG &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I had a problem like this on my B16… It turned out that the throttle cable was so finely adjusted at the cable mount that when it got hot and expanded a little it was just enough to bring the revs up at a constant 2k rpm. Try loosening it off a couple of turns… I know it sounds stupid but it may just fix it! </TD></TR></TABLE>

It revved 1400 RPM due to expansion and contraction in the throttle cable?

That's bullshit if I've ever heard it. Stop talking so you don't haphazardly infect the rest of us.

I make sure my throttle cables are as sensitive as a young, horny, girl's nipples on a chilly morning and I've never had any problems with the idle going crazy due to getting hot and colder due to engine

His problem is that the previous owner ***-[freak]ed the wiring with his VAFC hack-**** tuning job.

My advice:
Unplug your ricer unit (VAFC-II), get a map of the ECU's back - and trace (and if need-be re-run) the wires going from the ECU to the MAP and VTEC oil pressure sensor. I'm sure after you do that you can properly diagnose the problem, if one still exists.

Do me a favor, bash that rice-powered tuning placebo over the next ******** that tries to install it.

 

its all good the vafc is already out an there are NO CEL at all its jus when my car is cold it idles at 1000 an when it warms up it idles at 1800 to 2000 idk what the hell is wrong with it?~?~?

 

same thing happened with an old b18b i used to have...ended up just being a vacuum leak, have you checked every hose you could find?

 

ill check again as soon as i stops raining out i hope i can figure this out!!!

 

Stick your finger inside the throttle body and clog the holes that lead from the IACV and the FITV and first isolate the problem. Once you do that and it turns out to be your FITV which I think is. Take it out and crank it down. theres a million threads on here about that. And also make sure ECT sensor is working correctly. Without this the ECU wont know how to adjust the idle according the engines temperature

 

ok i plugged both holes an the idle barly moved at all any more suggestions???

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Syndacate &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

It revved 1400 RPM due to expansion and contraction in the throttle cable?

That's bullshit if I've ever heard it. Stop talking so you don't haphazardly infect the rest of us.

I make sure my throttle cables are as sensitive as a young, horny, girl's nipples on a chilly morning and I've never had any problems with the idle going crazy due to getting hot and colder due to engine

His problem is that the previous owner ***-[freak]ed the wiring with his VAFC hack-**** tuning job.

My advice:
Unplug your ricer unit (VAFC-II), get a map of the ECU's back - and trace (and if need-be re-run) the wires going from the ECU to the MAP and VTEC oil pressure sensor. I'm sure after you do that you can properly diagnose the problem, if one still exists.

Do me a favor, bash that rice-powered tuning placebo over the next ******** that tries to install it.</TD></TR></TABLE>


excuse me mate!?... This is what actually happened after fitting a four branch mani. As the cable runs straight over the mani, the revs would creep up after the car was warmed up and had been sitting there for a while. THIS IS A FACT, not a question for you to nit pick at or criticise.

I was only doing my best to offer help and advice from my own personal experiences. Keep your stupid comments to your self and don't you ever undermine anything I say ever again, you jumped up (probably over weight) New Yorker *****!

 

WOW

 

Get at him Syndacate! because it happen to you doesn't mean that it would happen to anyone else. The logic of what you said really doesn't make any sense metal doesn't expand or contract in hot and cold at the running temperature of a stock Honda motor on the outside of the engine.

Running temperature in a Honda engine is about 170 to 190 the intake manifold where the throttle cable is at in on the intake manifold. Its not even in the engine! and the intake manifold after a engine warms up on the outside is anywhere from 70 to 115. What makes you think that the throttle would be affected? The motor itself is aluminum the cable is coated in plastic then its a steel wire. the tolerance of a piece of steel expanding is to my knowledge about 220 to 270.

If your motor were to get to 270 you would fry all the rubber seals on your motor first. Not to mention the plastic coating on the cable.

Its more logical to say that the lube in the throttle cable dried up and the wire is not moving as smooth as it used to. That I have seen before Also check the ecu simple check will tell you if the ecu is going bad.

 

Lewie_ Eg, go eat ****, what you said made no sense the chance of the metal expanding from a normal operating temperature car is unheard of, what probably happen to your silly *** car was that your lube probably dried out

I don't appreciate you insulting New Yorkers because he corrected you on your stupid comment. Ok mate!.