ok so just recently my car is stalling if i dont keep the gas going on top of that im getting a loud zinging almost noise from inside the motor???

 

zinging noise ehh? care to narrow that down at all?

 

yea really...never heard a zinging noise before...is it more of a tapping or knocking noise? or neither?

 

Idk about zining.

But having to keep your foot on the gas sounds from stalling sounds like a timing issue

 

ok a really really high pitch tap or ting on the intake side of the motor.... and if it was timing isue with the stalling wouldnt that effect me at all times not just at idle?

 

mabey your TPS bad.

It can be alot of things. When I had to deal with keeping my foot on the gas it was timing issue.

 

VTEC
Valve
Timing
Electronically
Controlled

 

ok so you googled what VTEC means...what does this have to do with the OPs thread?

 

Times 2

 

Lol at you guys. First of all, could the "zinging" be pinging? aka detonation. That would be really odd on a stock motor though...

Secondly, it's "Variably valve timing and electronic lift control." I think honda just omitted the rest of the letters to make an acronym that just sounded cool lol. Otherwise it would be "VVTELC" and that's just retarded

 

ID like to know why Toyota claims to have Vtec, they call it VVTC, and it sucks a$$hole. Nothing like Vtak

 

ok so yopu say bad detionation....well got 8code on check ingine light....4 of wich were miss fires....so i was told could be my valves wich is the noise n the stalling on low rpms so i take off the valve cover didnt see ne thing out the the ordanary i put the cover back on but dont bolt it down n its stays runnin bad o2 sensor...dude im lookin 4 ne thing...

 

Tapping noises are usually valves out of spec. You can't tell just by looking at them; you have to get a feeler gauge and compare them with stock specs. If they're too loose, extra air is flowing by them when they should be closed; if they're too tight, not enough air is filling the cylinders. You are probably noticing it more at idle when your IM is in high vacuum as compared to when there's air readily flowing through. Check your valves.

 

Since you also posted about a money shift and advice has been given, you need to follow it, which means pulling the head, not just the valve cover, thats where you are going to find whats messed up!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by joshblaze101 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ok so yopu say bad detionation....well got 8code on check ingine light....4 of wich were miss fires....so i was told could be my valves wich is the noise n the stalling on low rpms so i take off the valve cover didnt see ne thing out the the ordanary i put the cover back on but dont bolt it down n its stays runnin bad o2 sensor...dude im lookin 4 ne thing...</TD></TR></TABLE>

1. Lay off the weed.
2. Look in your money shift thread and do the advice given there.

Not hard.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Prelude_1992 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">VTEC
Valve
Timing
Electronically
Controlled</TD></TR></TABLE>

VTEC (variable valve-timing and electronic lift control)

 

omit all answers bring car to qualified technician. no offense, but if you don't know the diff btwn tapping, spark knock, or a heat shield rattle on the manifold (zing) or whatever, bring car to mechanic

 

loud zinging noise? like every one else said could be alot of things. and also pulling the valve cover off to check valves WHAT!?!?!?! dont be silly. now gstrudler was partially right when he said check valve clearence with a feeler gauge personally i hate ****ing with it cause its extremely hard to get right. but intake and exhaust side take diff clearences so check that out. in order for ur car to stall though due to valve lash ur car needs to be completely out of spec or that to happen so check it. if its to tight ur valves wont seal properly during combustion if its to loose it wont let enough air in to combust properly. CHECK THAT FIRST!!!! second check ur timng make sure everything is TDC!!!. becareful its very easy to put it half a tooth off. to check it takes alot. take the valve cover off pull the crank pully off then pull the timing cover off then pull the balancer shafts sprocket off (leave the wood drift key in the crank shaft b series ppl freak out and think they'll lose it cause theres is only 1/4 inch long) . u should be able to see the crank pully sprocket. look closely there is an arrow on the sprocket and also on the block those need to match up and cylinder one needs to be in its up most postion in order for the bottom end to be tdc and for the top end make sure the cam gear arrows are pointing straight up.

and u do all that and **** is still ****ing up ur more then likely ur gonna buy new valves. i donno who said it somewhere here but check the money shift thread. cause what ur car is doing sounded like mine when i money shifted my 2000 lude. and if u do have to pull the head spend a lil bit of money and upgrade ur valves springs and retainers. but if u do this ur gonna have to get a manuel timing belt tensioner. cause running any extra pressure on the hydraulic tensioners will destroy it,

 

You do realize this thread is a year old, right?

 

lololol (:

 

lol wow really didnt notice it seriously lol i just read it and just posted