i know ive posted this before a couple months ago but cant find my old thread so ill start again.

when car is completly cold i turn it on. Its kinda a rough start but it will fire up. runs and idles perfectly fine but as it warms up it starts stuttering and the tach bounces. once this happens if i give it any gas at all it will shut off. if i let it keep stuttering it will eventually shut off after the car completly warms up. After it dies i try and restart it and it will just keep cranking and it makes like puff noises from the exhaust but it wont come on. After waiting for it to cool down it will start again but do the same thing(run for 5-10 min then shut off). Ive been told many things it could be and they are the things ive tried. New o2 sensor, new main relay. My mechanic told me it was my ecu so i put in another ecu that i had and it still would do the same thing. My car is manual but i put in an automatic ecu dont know if that matters.

Im at a complete loss. It seems like as the car is warming up and the engine is getting flooded with gas and choking it out becasue the noises its making. Any insight would be fantastic. Sorry if it didnt make much sense i can elaborate more if need be. thanks

 

What lemme get this straight you have a mt swapped tranny still running an at ecu? if so thats a huge problem....

 

no i have a manual ecu but i put in my old auto ecu and it does the same thing

 

also: distributor is less than a year old so i doubt it could be the ignitor but maybe i should try a new dizzy to be on the safe side.

 

any help?? i think the car is running fine cold becasue the ecu is running in open loop mode and not reading any info from the sensors on the engine but once it switches to closed loop when the car is warmed up one of the sensors is causing it to shut off. there is no cel on so im just wondering what sensor could cause the engine to shut off

 

bump...

 

anyone...? i need this car for school

 

ok so i decided to check for error codes again and this time i got a 6. which is engine coolant temp sensor. i let the car warm up to check the ohms from the sensor and it checked out to be ok. i then reset the ecu checked the codes again and got 6 and 12. 12 being some associated with egr valve. i then reset the ecu one last time and got no codes. Im at a lose. I guess they are itermittidly failing. Real question is could the egr sensor or the collant temp sensor casue the car to shut off when it warms up and not be able to turn it back on until the engine cools down?

 

Alternator?

 

could that cause it to shut off and not restart until it cools down?

 

i highly doubt your coolant temp sensor or o2 sensor would make your car shut off i think you should check the fuel system. maybe a filter as unlikely as that would be i dunno id check fuel pressure though

 

i just replaced the fuel filter like 3 weeks ago cause i thought that was the problem. how would i do about checkin fuel pressure?

 

ok im almost positive that its the engine coolant temp sensor for all that care. i came across this while reading:

"If the ECT sensor fails running warm it will probably have little effect on performance. But a hot restart with cold input will cause a high injector pulse signal of 70ms (2ms normal) and will flood the engine when it goes into closed loop."

that fits my problem almost exactly id say. when the engine is cold it runs fine casue the sensor is stuck "cold" but once it warms up its flooding the engine causing it to stall out. And my guess is it won't resart casue the engine is flooded. and my guess is thats why it starts back up after i wait an extended period of time.

 

i wouldn't think that the coolant temp sen could make it run so rich that it floods out. I could see it causing a bog. I'm putting my money on your ignitor.

 

dizzy is less than a year old. im hoping its just the ect sensor

 

sounds like your valve clearances might be too tight. when the engine is cool the valves are closing but the the car warms up the valve clearances get too tight and leave the valve open a bit. do a compression test when the car is cool and when its warmed up

 

ok ill try that. I just replaced the ect sensor and it wasnt that. so 40 bucks down the drain. i reset the ecu and when i jump the connecter the cel doesn't blink it just stays solid. what does that mean?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pprowler6 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ok ill try that. I just replaced the ect sensor and it wasnt that. so 40 bucks down the drain. i reset the ecu and when i jump the connecter the cel doesn't blink it just stays solid. what does that mean?</TD></TR></TABLE>
It means that you have no faults.

 

well i had a friend who works at a honda dealership come out and look at my car becasue now it wont even start. Its now getting no spark. there is no spark even coming from the external coil. he only had a couple minutes casue he came on his lunch break but he said he had a old external coil laying around. I later picked it up and installed it and to no avail the car still wont start. so what comes before the coil that i can check? i have an amp hooked up to the car the reads volts and with the key in the II position it only reads 11volts and i thought its supposed to read 12v. any idea what i should do next?

 

any ideas guys ???

 

I always start with the simple things first when trying to diagnose a problem. If your not getting spark you need to fix that first. start at the battery. Check and/or clean all connections including grounds. The main ground is a common problem. Check fire before the coil and after. If you have proper voltage before the coil and after move on distributor, then to plug wires and then plugs. Once you have fixed your spark problem check for vacuum leaks. I have seen vacuum leaks cause some weird issues in lots of different cars. Look for dry rotted or cracked vacuum hoses. Beyond that consult the service manual. If you don't have a Helms there are tons of sites that give free copies of it for download. Crazy problems with no CELs are not fun to diagnose, just be patient and don't over look anything no matter how insignificant you think it might be.

 

thanks for the insight dude yea i have the service manual and have been going through everything checking to see if everythign is in spec. As you have prolly read the car has been sitting since june and its just getting to be a pain in the ***. my original mechanic told me it was a bad ecu but i have 2 ecus and thats clearly not the problem.
Ive checked and rechecked all the grounds and vacuum lines. Its really bugging me casue i think its getting spark intermediatly. When i crank the engine it sounds like it wants to start every so often but it wont. after cranking it a couple times the exhuast headers are somtimes warm which tells me its firing sometimes. timing is on and there is pressure in the fuel rail. i think ill prolly have to give in and get it towed to my NEW mechanic.

 

check the fuses, and I mean every single one of them.

 

Also check the igniter according to service manual and meter the fuel injector.

 

i checked every fuse muiltiple times and the injector resistor and all the injectors. everything is wintin spec. The car is sparking now i just think it was casue of the battery being almost dead. no luck though still wont start. there is pressure in the fuel rail so i dunno what to do next. like i said while i crank the engine it makes like a puffing noise out the exhuast. looked at the timing belt. its fine and timing is still on. Any suggestions? Thanks guys