I can't believed it got 45k miles on it already. Still run like the day it came off the dealer. My average is 35-36mpg and this tank i'm getting 39mpg (I get ~410-430 miles between fill-up at 11 - 11.5 gallons)



Maintenance minder system told me it's time to change the oil.



Mobil 1 Synthetic & OEM Honda filter since day 1. I know it's just a Civic but I'm planning to get 300k miles out of this car without any major engine problem.



Jack the car up..



Remove the 710 cap.



Fumoto oil drain valve & oil filter



Flip the switch and watch it in action This thing makes oil changes a breeze.




Remove & replace the oil filter but make sure to put some oil into the new filter first & lube up the O-ring. Clean up any oil spills around the area with a shop rag.




Fill her up with only 4 quarts of oil...meaning you should have 1 quart left since it's a 5 quart container.




Reset the oil life by turning the key to "ON" position & holding the button as shown until the display starts to blink. Hold the reset button again to reset the oil life meter to 100%

 

Nice DIY (even though it's not the first).

Your jack stand locations are scary.


Modified by 2008fijibluesi at 11:17 AM 8/18/2008

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 2008fijibluesi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Nice DIY (even though it's not the first).

Your jack locations are scary. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I was feeling adventurous & want to gamble, that's why the jack location was....jacked.

 

Do you know where the jack stands are supposed to go?

 

I always place mine near the rocker panel area (not directly on them).

 

lift points for ur vehicle are marked.. on the bottom part of the trim and in the manual... why people use random lift points they decide makes my mind boggle... my neighbor put them at about the same spots u put them about 2 mths ago... the car was on the ground 20 min later...

 

Nice DIY Good Job!

 

your car takes 3.7 qt by the way.
and whats the point in putting the oil in the oil filter before screwing it on? you dont have to do that, that does nothing for you. as soon as you start pouring the oil in up top the filter will fill up anyways.
never thought id see a diy oilchange

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SIVIC 3 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">your car takes 3.7 qt by the way.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

It's 3.9 qt, 3.7 liters...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 2008fijibluesi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Nice DIY (even though it's not the first).

Your jack stand locations are scary.


Modified by 2008fijibluesi at 11:17 AM 8/18/2008</TD></TR></TABLE>


it appears to be on a frame rails ....how is that scary? Just as strong if not stronger than the pinch weld

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by av911 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

It's 3.9 qt, 3.7 liters...

</TD></TR></TABLE>
I always pour in the quatro.

 

at honda we do 3.7 qt
thats how the vehicle is in our system.
4 qts is fine too.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Nsane &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


it appears to be on a frame rails ....how is that scary? Just as strong if not stronger than the pinch weld </TD></TR></TABLE>

I agree that it is a strong spot. But strength is not the problem here. The jack stand locations that Honda has on the car, are shaped so that they fit directly in the notch at the top of a jack stand, thus preventing the car from moving. The frame rails are flat and smooth. A lift is flat with pads, and designed to lift/support at the frame rails. A jack stand is not. Also, they are at the furthermost edge of the car, providing the most stability and less chance of the car falling on you when you place/remove the stands. Its not likely that the car will fall off the jack stands the way he has it, but why crawl under the car to place jack stands, when the sturdiest and easiest place in right within reach from beside the car?

 

u R18 guys have it easy

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by kroze &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


</TD></TR></TABLE>

Is that exposed amp wire??

 

^yes. it is a horrible wiring job, i agree.

 

hmm can u show better pics of this quick drain valve??

i was thinking too, what if you run somethin over and it breaks the valve? 5 quarts of oil all over the 95 south haahaha

 

there are 4 pics of the drain valve. what more do you want?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by i-VTEC_DOHC &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">hmm can u show better pics of this quick drain valve??

i was thinking too, what if you run somethin over and it breaks the valve? 5 quarts of oil all over the 95 south haahaha</TD></TR></TABLE>

It doesn't go below the oil pan or the subframe therefore If I were to ran over something, my oil pan & subframe will be the only thing to worry about. Not the drain valve....but i'm sure I'll have a bigger problem to worry about if the oil pan or subframe went out on me

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SIVIC 3 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">your car takes 3.7 qt by the way.
and whats the point in putting the oil in the oil filter before screwing it on? you dont have to do that, that does nothing for you. as soon as you start pouring the oil in up top the filter will fill up anyways.
never thought id see a diy oilchange </TD></TR></TABLE>

It's 3.9 quarts and the point of putting oil into the new filter & lubbing up the o-ring is:
1. When you first start the engine, oil will circulate right away instead of taking time filling up the filter & to saturate it. Those precious seconds wasted filling the filter with oil means your car didn't have oil circulating. Probably mean nothing since it's only a few seconds but just to be safe.
2. Lubbing up the O-ring will give you a better seal.

Both of those steps are oil change 101...I thought they would teach you this if you're a mech or anyone who work on cars. I guess not.

See...If I didn't post this DIY, you wouldn't have learned those 2 tips Mr. "I'll never thought i'd see a DIY oil change "

 

ok.
1. the oil is already in the filter long before you start the engine. it fills up when you pour the oil in the engine

2. i never said anything about lubing the o-ring, that is common knowledge.

3. i change oil at least 10 times daily, as i work at honda

4. i was informing the board that honda uses 3.7 qts on the r18 civics. so if its 3.9, we must have bad information. either way, it wont make your car go

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SIVIC 3 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">there are 4 pics of the drain valve. what more do you want?</TD></TR></TABLE>

there are 4 pics from one angle. a pic from behind the oil pan would be sufficient for me. so stop being an ***.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by kroze &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

It doesn't go below the oil pan or the subframe therefore If I were to ran over something, my oil pan & subframe will be the only thing to worry about. Not the drain valve....but i'm sure I'll have a bigger problem to worry about if the oil pan or subframe went out on me </TD></TR></TABLE>

i already ran something over and snapped my drain bolt. so therefore, your claim stands insufficient to me.

 

i dont stop being an ***

 

Thanks for the great post and photos!

I just have 2 questions:

- what model civic is shown in the photos?
- is the device used for the filter usable on the 2008 si sedan?

modman

 

1 its not a si, looks like a lx
2 that one nope, but others will...