I'm wondering what kind of oil you guy's are running with??

 

amsoil 5w30 synthetic is what I have been using for 3 oil changes now...good stuff in my opinion

 

I was using Mobil 1 synthetic but I am now sick and tired of it. My car burns it like a **** and honestly I can't justify going through 3-5L between changes. All ludes burn, so unless you got the $$$ it seems like a waste now.

I'm switching back to non-synth, 10w30 (castrol GTX), and changing every 3,000 kilometers (around 2000 Miles)

I need to stop the bleeding...it just vanishes into thin air! Arrrgh!!


[Modified by satan_srv, 4:14 PM 7/23/2002]

 

good stuff, I used to run it with good results except for in the tranny. I now use Swepco for engine oil and tranny duty. This stuff is exceptional.

 

Anyone use Redline? I have had good results with it and plan to run it on my new motor shortly.


[Modified by bb1turbovtec, 10:46 PM 7/23/2002]

 

Used Mobil1 tri-synthetic for a while. After reading all these oil threads though I am switching back to conventional dino oil. A lot of the "synthetic" oils now are really not fully synthetic so it's a waste of money. I'll probably use the cheapest name brand dino oil. 10w30 btw.

 

I use the new Tri-Synthetic Moble 1 5x30. Don't lose a drop in between oil changes.

I like the idea that it is a little better for the environment, and plus I don't mine spending an extra $15 per oil change - since I do it myself.

Really cannot go wrong with Moble 1 or Honda fluid!!!

 

i used mobil 1 for a couple of oil changes and i was going through 1 qt every two weeks. not bad considering the model i drive. i also autocross it, which makes it run at even higher temps. i decided to go with a less expensive synthetic, so i swapped over to castrol syntec full synthetic blend (10w30) and have managed to loose just a little bit less oil, but still lose oil. i am more impressed with the castrol. it is cleaner after 3000 miles than the mobil was. the mobil 1 came out pretty dark, unlike the castrol.

 

Look in the Type R forum, acutally not just Type Rs. A lot of people have notice that Mobil 1 "mysteriously" disappear on the car even though many of these car are new/near new.

I too ran Mobil 1 synthetic and Pennzoil synthetic before and it increased oil consumption. Switched back to Castrol GTX and had no oil consumption problems.

 

That's exactly what's happening to me. My Mobil 1 is just vanishing. And my oil is dirty as hell after 1000miles!

I am changing to Castrol GTX tonight 10w30. I'm fed up with Mobil 1!

 

I know this is possibly something you've already gone over, but I'm curious as to everyone's opinion.
I live in Texas in the wonderful summer heat. I've been using Castrol (non-synthetic) 10w30 for most year-round and 10w40 for summer. What do you guys think? (Btw it's a '93 VTEC) I don't drive the car very hard except for maybe once a week or less, mostly normal driving.


[Modified by liddlelude, 3:43 PM 7/24/2002]

 

Dude I live in an igloo an my dealer says I should be running 10w40 for the way I drive! Hehe ok well I don't live in a igloo but up in Toronto we range from -20F-85F over the year and on the older H22a you need the thick oil. Like I was saying the thin ****-water Mobil 1 just vanished, like a qt a week.

 

10w40 is too thick. Use 10w30.

 

Yeah what HE says and what I do are different things. I put in 10w30....

 

 

Mobile 1 tri-synthetic 10w-30 green top (i think 10w-30 is the green top, unless its the 5w)

 

I heard that Royal Purple is good stuff. It's like $5 a quart. Never tried it myself but many people love it. I tried Neo oil at 5w30 @ $10 a quart and I love it, I'll never get anything else.


[Modified by SweetGurlRacer, 7:21 AM 7/26/2002]

 

mobil 1 baby!!!

 

Wow, I don't know what happened to your guy's seals or something. I'm running Mobil1 (and have another year's supply bought in my garage) 5w-30 synthetic and only loose maybe about 1/2 a quart between changes. I am also running a remote oil cooler setup so I should have more chances of loss than your guys systems. For those of you who are switching back from synthetic to conventional oil and you've been running synthetic for a while make SURE that your rings keep seated since you might be asking for blowby. But it's more-so the case for those of you who change from dino to synthetic.

 

Amsoil 5w30.. Its the best out there

 

Mobil1 5w30.

Andrew

 

On Preludes (and other Hondas), a substantial amount of oil can be lost via the crankcase ventilation tube.

All oil gets dirty. Besides lubrication, another primary job of oil is to pick up contaminants in the engine and suspend them. Some contaminants are large enough to get stoppped in your oil filter. Others are smaller and can pass through the oil filter. I'd be more worried if my oil looked really "clean" when I changed it...

Andrew


[Modified by aklucsarits, 6:29 PM 7/26/2002]

 

i use mobil 1 high mileage formula. It seems to work fine for me. If you're burning oil, it's too thin. I haven't noticed my h23 burning much oil. It used to leak out the tri synthetic because the molecular size of that oil was smaller than the regular oil i used to use and it would seep out through worn seals. The high mileage stuff doens't leak at all.

 

I'll be going soon for my second oil change.I have now Mobil1 trysyn.
I may check the BMW oil ,made by Castrol.It should be 100% syntethic unlike the regular Castrol "syn."It is cheaper than Mobil.
The new SuperSyn from Mobil looks promising too.
Lots of info on http://theoildrop.server101.com/cgi/ultimatebb.cgi

 

I used mobil 1 10w30 for a few oil changes and i had the same problem with the oil burning up. Ive recently switched back to Castrol Syntec 10w30 and haven't had any problems with it.