Flat/Satin Paintjobs - **Compressed** All pics and technical info.
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Flat/Satin Paintjobs - **Compressed** All pics and technical info.
Database of Flat/Satin Black/Gunmetal (and a few others)
Hondas:
"Cost about $12(including tape, lol). I personally wouldnt pay $1K+ for a satin job. Kinda defeats the purpose, imo." - Slopoke
"it was done by previous owner but he told me that he sanded it down and fabed up a lil paint booth and washed the car down with denatural alcohol and sprayed the car down with the satin black. but it looks good. " - mra4886
- SneezinCD5
Hondas:
"Cost about $12(including tape, lol). I personally wouldnt pay $1K+ for a satin job. Kinda defeats the purpose, imo." - Slopoke
"it was done by previous owner but he told me that he sanded it down and fabed up a lil paint booth and washed the car down with denatural alcohol and sprayed the car down with the satin black. but it looks good. " - mra4886
- SneezinCD5
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Re: Flat/Satin Paintjobs - **Compressed** All pics and technical info. (Wilky)
Others:
"Trim black"
"John Deere Blitz Black" - FrankencrxBHAM
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">From: Valspar Paint General Manager. (They make Blitz Black for John Deere.)
#1. If the existing paint is relatively good condition (ie. no peeling paint, no large amount of rust, etc) no primer is needed. Scuff sand the existing paint with extra fine grit sandpaper, wipe surface with a clean cloth and then apply John Deere Blitz Black.
#2. If primer is used due to bare metal or minor surface defects, we suggest the John Deere Buff Primer (available in aerosols, quarts and gallons). This is a very "user friendly" formulation that provides good sandability, excellent filling/sealing properties and enhanced corrosion resistance.
#3. A reducer is needed for optimum sprayability and appearance. We suggest the use of the John Deere thinner/reducer (available in quarts gallon and fives). It is formulated specifically for John Deere paints. The mix ratio is 8 parts John Deere paint : 1 part John Deere thinner.
#4. John Deere Blitz Black is an "air dry" formulation...but if a you want the paint to dry faster and harder, John Deere has a hardener in their product line. It is available in pints, part number REN3001. The mix ratio is 8 parts John Deere paint : 1 part REN3001 hardener : 1 part John Deere thinner.
Some more info...the exact same formulation is used in the aerosols as in the quarts/gallons. This helps with touch-ups and is critical in low gloss applications such as the Blitz Black.
!!!!!!! IMPORTANT !!!!!!!
John Deere Blitz Black cureing windows.
Shooting to a good surface IE: Bare metal, John Deere Primer, or to a good base of existing paint scuffed up.
1 light tack coat and wait no longer than 15 minutes to shoot the full wet coat.
For a second coat which is NOT needed but why the hell not.
Wait up to but NO longer than 3 hours to apply second coat.
But if you go past 3 hours DO NOT shoot another coat because the paint will react and go to $#!T. Wait 36 hours until you shoot the next coat. For each coat the same times apply. But one good coat with the 8 to 1 to 1 (8-1-1 paint-thinner-hardener) will be more than enough. I would wetsand to make sure the paint is smooth, and they even have satin clears you could throw on top.</TD></TR></TABLE>
"Trim black"
"John Deere Blitz Black" - FrankencrxBHAM
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">From: Valspar Paint General Manager. (They make Blitz Black for John Deere.)
#1. If the existing paint is relatively good condition (ie. no peeling paint, no large amount of rust, etc) no primer is needed. Scuff sand the existing paint with extra fine grit sandpaper, wipe surface with a clean cloth and then apply John Deere Blitz Black.
#2. If primer is used due to bare metal or minor surface defects, we suggest the John Deere Buff Primer (available in aerosols, quarts and gallons). This is a very "user friendly" formulation that provides good sandability, excellent filling/sealing properties and enhanced corrosion resistance.
#3. A reducer is needed for optimum sprayability and appearance. We suggest the use of the John Deere thinner/reducer (available in quarts gallon and fives). It is formulated specifically for John Deere paints. The mix ratio is 8 parts John Deere paint : 1 part John Deere thinner.
#4. John Deere Blitz Black is an "air dry" formulation...but if a you want the paint to dry faster and harder, John Deere has a hardener in their product line. It is available in pints, part number REN3001. The mix ratio is 8 parts John Deere paint : 1 part REN3001 hardener : 1 part John Deere thinner.
Some more info...the exact same formulation is used in the aerosols as in the quarts/gallons. This helps with touch-ups and is critical in low gloss applications such as the Blitz Black.
!!!!!!! IMPORTANT !!!!!!!
John Deere Blitz Black cureing windows.
Shooting to a good surface IE: Bare metal, John Deere Primer, or to a good base of existing paint scuffed up.
1 light tack coat and wait no longer than 15 minutes to shoot the full wet coat.
For a second coat which is NOT needed but why the hell not.
Wait up to but NO longer than 3 hours to apply second coat.
But if you go past 3 hours DO NOT shoot another coat because the paint will react and go to $#!T. Wait 36 hours until you shoot the next coat. For each coat the same times apply. But one good coat with the 8 to 1 to 1 (8-1-1 paint-thinner-hardener) will be more than enough. I would wetsand to make sure the paint is smooth, and they even have satin clears you could throw on top.</TD></TR></TABLE>
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FV-QR
Originally Posted by Josh.
This is what I was told to do:
Scuff the areas that need to be sprayed primer (ie - areas with filler) with 400 grit
Spray the primer one nice and thick - use a paint gun, not a rattle can
Roll the car out and wet sand everything you will be painting - use 600 grit
Fill up your gun with whatever satin / flat paint you bought and apply it according to it's directions. Mine said to lay on "Two medium wet coats"
The paint I bought said that sanding, waxing, ect, will all enhance the paints shine, so don't do it.
Of course my paint job turned out looking like ***... but thats probably because it was the first time I had ever painted and had no idea how to adjust the gun properly. I'd say if you don't know how to paint, practice on some extra body panels before you do your car.... I should have.
How mine turned out...
Scuff the areas that need to be sprayed primer (ie - areas with filler) with 400 grit
Spray the primer one nice and thick - use a paint gun, not a rattle can
Roll the car out and wet sand everything you will be painting - use 600 grit
Fill up your gun with whatever satin / flat paint you bought and apply it according to it's directions. Mine said to lay on "Two medium wet coats"
The paint I bought said that sanding, waxing, ect, will all enhance the paints shine, so don't do it.
Of course my paint job turned out looking like ***... but thats probably because it was the first time I had ever painted and had no idea how to adjust the gun properly. I'd say if you don't know how to paint, practice on some extra body panels before you do your car.... I should have.
How mine turned out...
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From: Coming to a Campus Near You!
Re: FV-QR (Wilky)
How doest it hold up?
Originally Posted by Josh.
This is what I was told to do:
Scuff the areas that need to be sprayed primer (ie - areas with filler) with 400 grit
Spray the primer one nice and thick - use a paint gun, not a rattle can
Roll the car out and wet sand everything you will be painting - use 600 grit
Fill up your gun with whatever satin / flat paint you bought and apply it according to it's directions. Mine said to lay on "Two medium wet coats"
The paint I bought said that sanding, waxing, ect, will all enhance the paints shine, so don't do it.
Of course my paint job turned out looking like ***... but thats probably because it was the first time I had ever painted and had no idea how to adjust the gun properly. I'd say if you don't know how to paint, practice on some extra body panels before you do your car.... I should have.
Scuff the areas that need to be sprayed primer (ie - areas with filler) with 400 grit
Spray the primer one nice and thick - use a paint gun, not a rattle can
Roll the car out and wet sand everything you will be painting - use 600 grit
Fill up your gun with whatever satin / flat paint you bought and apply it according to it's directions. Mine said to lay on "Two medium wet coats"
The paint I bought said that sanding, waxing, ect, will all enhance the paints shine, so don't do it.
Of course my paint job turned out looking like ***... but thats probably because it was the first time I had ever painted and had no idea how to adjust the gun properly. I'd say if you don't know how to paint, practice on some extra body panels before you do your car.... I should have.
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