Is there any way to relocate the battery for turbo in a clean manner?
Most of the ones i see look sloppy.

 

I would keep it under the hood regardless... Batteries vent on charge or discharge. I forget which, if not both. Yes, even 'sealed' batteries, apparently still have vent slots. FYI this is all second hand info.

 

I relocated my battery to the rear of my crx. I just picked up the complete Jegs battery relocation kit for 100 bucks or so. Its clean looking, just run the positive wire from the starter to the battery and hide the wire in your door sill by the floor. Make sure you get a battery kill switch mounted on the back of your car if you plan on drag racing.

Another option is the passwordjdm battery relocater that drops the battery down in the engine bay so you dont have to relocate it. My buddy has this on his crx.

 

Some of my buddys use they power wire from their amp kit...and cut off the terminals....and jus run the positive wire like ur hooking up an amp and then jus get a good ground somewhere close to the batter once you put it in the trunk...and make sure you ground the cable under the hood too.

 

taylor relocation kit is what i used real clean legal box with a vent....no slop look

 

follow the link... most efficient design i've seen.

http://passwordjdm.com/Passwor....aspx

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by saka &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">follow the link... most efficient design i've seen.

http://passwordjdm.com/Passwor....aspx</TD></TR></TABLE>

Coolest one I've seen also. I'll look into it

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 91civicsikid &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Coolest one I've seen also. I'll look into it </TD></TR></TABLE>

wow.. its about 300 for the bracket and the battery. Looks good though... stupid money

 

buy some 4 gauge wire, a sealed battery and a 92-95 civic battery tie down and located it wherever you want.

 

If you're going to relocate inside the passenger cabin I would definatly put it inside a vented box.

 

i made my own relocate kit i just made a little braket that holds the battery and it is welded to my rear strut tower bar

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by saka &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">follow the link... most efficient design i've seen.

http://passwordjdm.com/Passwor....aspx</TD></TR></TABLE>

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 91civicsikid &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

wow.. its about 300 for the bracket and the battery. Looks good though... stupid money</TD></TR></TABLE>

Wow, I can't believe how much they charge for that

Half price right here

Battery: http://store.summitracing.com/...w=sku

Mount: http://store.summitracing.com/...w=sku

 

I ran 0 gauge up to the front of the car and used a distribution block and 4 gauge wire for my starter and fuse box.

In the rear is a 140amp circuit breaker and a vented box. Works good.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by donut. &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Wow, I can't believe how much they charge for that

Half price right here

Battery: http://store.summitracing.com/...w=sku

Mount: http://store.summitracing.com/...w=sku</TD></TR></TABLE>

If you go that route u still would have fabricate the bracket that password supplies with their kit. I know password sucks, but they do make the best complete EF kit that i have found.

 

I got my password kit on a sale*hence why I got it* it was like 200ish to my door, I had to trim a touch but I'm quite happy. Don't care of the bling factor, a DIY would be 150ish. This was a mild trim of 3 mins and install.

That plus the fact young boys are lured to my car was worth the extra few bucks to me.

 

while reading this i had a thought, flame me or whatever. I was going to buy all the summit stuff and mount up an odyssey battery, but could the pc680 be used with an amp and small woofer? It is one single 8 inch with a 1400 watt amp (obviously on like setting 2) Will this little battery require me to get a cap?

Now for my real thought. Since supposedly (going from previous posts) even a sealed battery vents, could a vent tube be ran from the battery box in the rear, under some panels and down the sunroof drain tube hole, and into a rear wheel well? I dont see why this wouldnt work, other than maybe being a tight squeeze?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by crxmadness &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

If you go that route u still would have fabricate the bracket that password supplies with their kit. I know password sucks, but they do make the best complete EF kit that i have found.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Its not hard at all. They even have a picture of it for you to copy it if you choose to.

 

A sealed battery does not vent. If it does, you have a crack.

Hence the word SEALED. Most common.....Optima. Which I have in the back of my crx in a nice box in the right rear corner.

There is even three unused clips along the passenger side door sill under the carpet that secure a 0 guage wire perfectly.

 

I heard alot of rumors about 0 and 4 gauge power wires!

Some say 4 gauge is fine, other say its way to thin considering the initial draw from the starter, And that 0 gauge is a must!

What do you guys think? 0 gauge or 4 gauge power for a rear battery relocation??

How many feet of cable are you guys using to get to the storage box behind the seats???


Modified by alscrx at 10:44 PM 8/21/2008

 

0 gauge would just be better so you have no worries, and on wire length, a crx is how long lol you just figure you need 2 feet to get through firewall and another 5 to get behind seat, so i would recommend 10 feet to be safe and so you can run it where you want possibly 10 + deff. no more then 15, you could run tht to the tail lights haha

 

OK so if i fuse the 0 gauge 6inches from the battery i should use a 200amp ANL fuse?

Also i have a fused distribution block for under the hood. What mini-ANL size fuse should i use in the block for the fuse box and for the starter??

 

you should be good with that fuse, it depends if it blows somethings wrong haha or you just need a bigger on, and um on the box im not sure

 

need more help!!

 

old thread re born..

so i need a fuse? lol

 

can i run one solid thick wire to the engine bay(power) and use the 100amp fuse and split it there. One to the fuse box and one to the starter? Will that work? Ground will be in the rear hatch somewhere.