my friend wants to know if thei are any good light weight pulleys. i know the e bay ones are no good. he is willing to pay for a good crank pulley and prefers that you can use all of the belts(a/c and power steering).

thanks

 

I've been thinking of looking for some as well. I was about to buy underdrive pulleys but I heard they cause problems because at idle, the alternator isn't spinning fast enough, so instead I'd like to go for lightweight as well.

Have you ever felt/held the stock crank pulley? THAT THING IS HEAVYYYYYYYYYYYYYY!!!

 

DONT, replace the stock crank pully with a light weight one! first off, the stock one is balenced and made for your motor. when you put a lightweight pully on, it screws up all the harmonics in your motor.

yes you might get away from this for a while, but it will slowly tear up your motor. not worth the extra .05 hp that you will gain.

and underdrive pullies for your alt mess up with yoru charging system, so you are loosing valiable power to run all the electronics on your motor, not just your stereo.

honda's motors are tried and true. they were the first company to make over 100 hp per liter. even the new z06 corvette only puts out 78.14 hp per liter to say a jdm B16 at 106.25 per liter. so i think honda knows what they are doing

 

Ehh I'll leave mine alone then

 

dont light weight crank pulleys give the most gains in performance in an n/a motor? i guess i will tell him to stay with the stock pulley.

 

think of it this way - your crank spins on a central axis, and is waited and ballenced. on one end you have the flywheel, on the other the crank pully.

now the flywheel, some will argue, has been proven that a ligher one wont give you any extra hp at the wheel, but your motor is allowed to rev faster. now thats good for autox but daily driving, the extra inertia of a heavier one will make it easier to get your car rolling and help you pull up a hill.

the crank pully is ALOT smaller then the flywheel, and has the harmonic ballencer in it. now the rotating mass isnt that much on the pully,

take a weight and put it on a string. it takes more force to turn it when its longer but it has more inertia and potential energy stored then if it is on a shorter string. same principal here. all your really going to have to show, is a flashy piece of aluminum that noone will ever see unless if they look under your car.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Frickr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">think of it this way - your crank spins on a central axis, and is waited and ballenced. on one end you have the flywheel, on the other the crank pully.

now the flywheel, some will argue, has been proven that a ligher one wont give you any extra hp at the wheel, but your motor is allowed to rev faster. now thats good for autox but daily driving, the extra inertia of a heavier one will make it easier to get your car rolling and help you pull up a hill.

the crank pully is ALOT smaller then the flywheel, and has the harmonic ballencer in it. now the rotating mass isnt that much on the pully,

take a weight and put it on a string. it takes more force to turn it when its longer but it has more inertia and potential energy stored then if it is on a shorter string. same principal here. all your really going to have to show, is a flashy piece of aluminum that noone will ever see unless if they look under your car.</TD></TR></TABLE>


There is nothing wrong with light weight crank pulleys if there was then why the hell did honda make one for example?

also if your soooooo sure they brake anything then why has no one filed a law suite against honda or anyone who makes a lighter crank pulley?

Im sick and tired of reading b/s that is simply pucked up from no were and fear mongering


http://www.unorthodoxracing.com/faq_pulleys.html

ALSO pay attention to what 92TypeR is saying read all his post on the subject he makes a formidable argument why YOU and most people are simply full of

https://honda-tech.com/zero...age=2

 

i dont remember exactly where i read this at. its been a while. but i was researching this for myself and i came across this information. usually i retain quite a bit of the information i read. now if you were to also invest into an ATI balancer, then it wouldnt be a problem. harmonics destroy motors. and a harmonic ballancer soaks up the harmfull vibrations.

and im sure that if someone modifies their motor, this isnt the only thing that they do to it. so it would be hard to say that that is what made their motor blow apart.

 

i just read your second link, and you my friend, have fail. there was more evidence supporting my side of this argument then yours. yes, im sure you could get away with it, and could probably drive for a few hundred thousand miles. then again, you might just hit that one destructive point where you dont have anything to soak up the bad harmonics, and boom, there goes your oil pump, your bearings, and a hole in the side of your block as a rod comes flying out and finds a new home somewhere else in your engine compartment.


look how big the crank pulley is. hell it could weigh 200 lbs. its not going to take alot of energy if its perfectly ballanced to turn it since it has a small diameter, now put that same amount of wait on a central axis but have the weight 3 foot from the radius, its going to take alot more force to turn it. you would about have to hang on the weight to get it to turn, where as on a smaller radius, you could turn that same weight with very little force.

so really, even if it doesnt destroy your motor from the harmonics, your not going to gain any power from it. so why even waste your money?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Frickr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i just read your second link, and you my friend, have fail. there was more evidence supporting my side of this argument then yours. yes, im sure you could get away with it, and could probably drive for a few hundred thousand miles. then again, you might just hit that one destructive point where you dont have anything to soak up the bad harmonics, and boom, there goes your oil pump, your bearings, and a hole in the side of your block as a rod comes flying out and finds a new home somewhere else in your engine compartment.


look how big the crank pulley is. hell it could weigh 200 lbs. its not going to take alot of energy if its perfectly ballanced to turn it since it has a small diameter, now put that same amount of wait on a central axis but have the weight 3 foot from the radius, its going to take alot more force to turn it. you would about have to hang on the weight to get it to turn, where as on a smaller radius, you could turn that same weight with very little force.

so really, even if it doesnt destroy your motor from the harmonics, your not going to gain any power from it. so why even waste your money?</TD></TR></TABLE>


Im not going to sit here all night and argue with you about your point of view

needless to say i totally disagree with your reasoning if you can call it that and im sure you disagree with me

-The end-

 

LOL everyone and there science... just get ctr or itr ones. There bad ***. There OE, and ppl will think your cool lol

 

I'd like to read that SAE paper that 92TypeR mentioned, but I still can't find it...

 

if your worried about balance, just get it balanced, if your worried about a harmonic dampner, just shave your old one down, if you want it balanced with the flywheel, take both weights, get a ratio, and then get your new crank pulley weight, and then find a flywheel thats "the most balanced to it. Do your own little engineering and then go brag about how your motors not gunna blow up because you can do simple division.

I only read theories about vibrations, whatever. I never read or saw or even heard of aftermarket crank pulleys destroying someones engine. When I get a new pulley, I'm getting one with a harmonic dampner on it forsure, vibrations at high rpms resonating might kill my motor=].

 

the car already has a light weight flywheel, so wouldn't getting a lightweight crank pulley balance everything out?

BTW honda motors are internally balanced right??

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by umair &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the car already has a light weight flywheel, so wouldn't getting a lightweight crank pulley balance everything out?

BTW honda motors are internally balanced right?? </TD></TR></TABLE>


Honda's are internally balanced

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hanmin &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if your worried about balance, just get it balanced, if your worried about a harmonic dampner, just shave your old one down, if you want it balanced with the flywheel, take both weights, get a ratio, and then get your new crank pulley weight, and then find a flywheel thats "the most balanced to it. Do your own little engineering and then go brag about how your motors not gunna blow up because you can do simple division.

I only read theories about vibrations, whatever. I never read or saw or even heard of aftermarket crank pulleys destroying someones engine. When I get a new pulley, I'm getting one with a harmonic dampner on it forsure, vibrations at high rpms resonating might kill my motor=].</TD></TR></TABLE>If you're worried about making real power don't waste your money on a lightweight pulley.

 

ctr crank pulleys are fine

 

i would like to get one with power steering.

 

check these out- http://www.professional-produc...a.php

ive used the single belt one with no problems.

 

i know some one who had aem's on his boosted mx6. On stock internals too, it lasted years. But then again what happens for one doesn't always work for two.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by umair &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the car already has a light weight flywheel, so wouldn't getting a lightweight crank pulley balance everything out?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Balance is not the debated issue.

 

Spend that money on a cast turbo manifold and start buying other turbo parts. You'll have more fun in the end than the .000025 whp those pulley's will gain.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Richard... &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


Honda's are internally balanced </TD></TR></TABLE>


guys that is the important part. most honda motors are internally ballanced so it doesn't matter. as long as you use a pulley from an internally ballanced motor you should be fine.

as far as blown oil pumps and spun bearings, my engine did both of those and it was stock, at a certain point, your driving style and maintanence habits, or even manufacturing imperfections all come together and the thing craps out. mine waited till after 200k but i cant tell you what made it go for sure, but it wasn't the pulley.

now if they were externally ballanced the pulley would make all the difference, but this is honda-tech, not ls1forum, so thats unlikely


and... the UR page gives good info. a lighter pulley/crankshaft/flywheel/whatever, means less inertia, so its easier to spin, which means less energy (hp) is used getting the internals moving and more can be transfered to the wheels. the engine will be more responsive but at the same time it will take less energy to stop it as well so your car will be easier to stall by the same margin.

as an example, take a paper plate and poke a pencil through the center, spin the plate around the pencil. pretty easy, now find a place that sells/has freeweights and try to spin a 50lb weight around a bar. not near as easy. same idea, just exagerated. its the same reason people buy lightweight wheels. reducing rotational mass reduces the amount of inertia, which makes the energy released from the fuel you're burning able to do bigger and better things, like accelerate your car on your way to 7-11


Modified by itrhopeful at 12:22 AM 8/21/2008

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by itrhopeful &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


guys that is the important part. most honda motors are internally ballanced so it doesn't matter. as long as you use a pulley from an internally ballanced motor you should be fine.

as far as blown oil pumps and spun bearings, my engine did both of those and it was stock, at a certain point, your driving style and maintanence habits, or even manufacturing imperfections all come together and the thing craps out. mine waited till after 200k but i cant tell you what made it go for sure, but it wasn't the pulley.

now if they were externally ballanced the pulley would make all the difference, but this is honda-tech, not ls1forum, so thats unlikely


and... the UR page gives good info. a lighter pulley/crankshaft/flywheel/whatever, means less inertia, so its easier to spin, which means less energy (hp) is used getting the internals moving and more can be transfered to the wheels. the engine will be more responsive but at the same time it will take less energy to stop it as well so your car will be easier to stall by the same margin.

as an example, take a paper plate and poke a pencil through the center, spin the plate around the pencil. pretty easy, now find a place that sells/has freeweights and try to spin a 50lb weight around a bar. not near as easy. same idea, just exagerated. its the same reason people buy lightweight wheels. reducing rotational mass reduces the amount of inertia, which makes the energy released from the fuel you're burning able to do bigger and better things, like accelerate your car on your way to 7-11


Modified by itrhopeful at 12:22 AM 8/21/2008</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

+1, good post.