As topic states, I'm starting another project Honda. This is my DD also since my WRX insists on burning so much gas these days. So this is how she starts in these pics. Only mods so far are Skunk2 coilovers and Skunk2 shifter/**** that I had laying around from a previous car. I'm gonna do an all motor build with reliability and daily driving in mind. I'd like to make 180ish at the wheels and I don't see that as too far fetched. I'll be updating as I go along. Up first will be the ol' standby I/H/E and other bolt ons. I'll be having a new head built for it and looking into rebuilding the bottom end also. Maybe an LS/VTEC.. who knows. Anyway, on to the starter pics I took tonight..

 

if you sell your wheels dont forget about me

 

by the way real clean car bro

 

is that the violet somthing color?

 

hi, guess what, i'm doing the same thing you are. 180whp was the goal along with decent MPG. 180whp is getting close to the limit of 24lb injectors but not TO the limit.
from the top down

1. blox, skunk, or edelbrock manifold
2. hondata intake gasket
3. type r springs or crower
4. ferrea 6000 valves
5. crower 63401 cams
6. mahle 1cc dish pistons (used on p72 head for roughly 10:5-10:7-1 compression)
7. arp rod bolts

headers and exhaust are a personal choice, i'm using the edelbrock header, magnaflow high flow cat and a greddy cat back.

ecu wise a p73 should work with the above since it's not too awful far off a stock type r, basically a type r + build. if further mods and tuning are in your future do talk to the people who are knowledgable in that area on what way to take your ecu.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ithrowpoop &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">is that the violet somthing color?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yep.. PB-76P I believe is the code, Deep Violet Clearcoat.

idrive, sounds like we have some similar ideas, I'm picking up a BLOX IM for pretty cheap, and having another GSR head P+P'd, 3 angle valve job etc.. I plan on coupling it with a Skunk2 valvle train and some Skunk2 Pro cams.. or Buddy Club 3's.. haven't totally decided yet. I just know I want a nice midrange. As for my exhaust, I hate dealing with the cops so I'm going with a custom bent 2.5" with a Vibrant stealth muffler a friend of mine is making at his shop here in El Paso.

 

LS/VTEC when you already have a B18C1? Why? Yea I know there is slightly more displacement, but most likely it won't be as reliable as a straight B18C1.

 

It was just an idea.. I may just build up the bottom end on the motor I have, just depends on what I'm able to pick up. Like I said, I have a friend who works at a very reputable shop here in town, and I'm confident he could build me a good motor either way.

 

Put the money towards good security.

 

got that covered already.. got a good alarm with starter kill/immobilizer, GPS tracking and I live in a pretty decent neighborhood. Plus a dog, loaded SKS, and Mossberg 12ga filled with #00 buckshot in the house.. it's a good theft deterrent.

 

sounds good. I just finished my LS/VTEC build on my 00 GSR and it put down 187 in stock form pretty much. (B18a block, P30's, stock 01 ITR head, DC 4-1 Header).

And in the next week or 2, I'll be starting a build on my last car I sold to my friend.

It's a 92 gsr w/b18c1. Our goal is the same, 180whp. So far we got Hytech Replica Header, Skunk2 ProSeries IM, Spoon 2-Layer HG, JDM ITR TB, BPi Velocity Stack, Hondata S200. We are either going with ITR cams or Buddy Club Spec 3. We'll probably just end up using the ITR cams. We'll be decking the head, 3-angle valve job, new valve stem seals.

 

are the buddy clubs III's alittle more agressive?

 

that car is fresh

 

the skunk stage 1 cams are a little more aggressive than what i'm using, on the upside, they can also make more power. definately use the b18c block, also port the head along with the valve job. porting the head is free hp if you know what you're doing. smoothing casting flaws, reducing the short turn radius and knife edging the dividers is definately worth doing. i'm all about cost to hp in my world. for example: the mahle powerpack is a forged piston that can handle some boost down the road if need be. 4032 alloy which can run a tight wall clearance and 40g lighter than type r slugs. price? $385 with rings. the ferrea valves $110 each side. crower has a factory saie on the NA cams for $436. look up the specs on the crower 63402-2 and see what you think. probably more inline with the specs you're after and also a good deal less expensive than they very good but pricey skunk stuff.


Modified by idrivesideways at 11:51 AM 8/14/2008

 

thanks for the tips.. I'll check into that stuff. It will be a while until I get into the internals. I'll be knocking out all the bolt on stuff first and being married with 2 kids, I definitely have a limited amount of cash to dump into the car at one time. So it will be ongoing.. also how are the crower springs/retainers as far as quality for the price?

 

and you live in texas cant you just unload on someone who intrudes on your property and not get in trouble for it?

 

squeaky clean dc2 bro

 

DONT RUIN THAT BEAUTIFUL CAR!!!!!!!!! AHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH HHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH

 

crower makes top of the line stuff. it's one of the brands you could compare with skunk 2 in the cam and spring department. i'm all about buying the best parts possible for the best price. if your bottom end isn't in too bad of shape you could always start with a top end build. the only problem is you are somewhat limited because of compression. all of the aggressive cams like more than the stock GSR 10:1 compression. type r, crower 63401 or blox type A would work but anything more aggressive will kill your torque and make the motor feel lazy without a bump in compression. even the above 3 operate better around 10:5-1. also, if you have a GSR do not change the manifold until you have another ecu. single runner intakes do not agree with the p72. if you are just starting with bolt ons i'd get a quality air cleaner, header, high flow cat and cat back. all can be installed quickly and will start your platform for a future build. some of the comments you hear about "don't wreck it" are related to people who start this stuff and half *** it. if you do a build look at every angle. MPG, emissions, power etc.. figure it all out before you start. you'll be much happier.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B18CEJ205 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">thanks for the tips.. I'll check into that stuff. It will be a while until I get into the internals. I'll be knocking out all the bolt on stuff first and being married with 2 kids, I definitely have a limited amount of cash to dump into the car at one time. So it will be ongoing.. also how are the crower springs/retainers as far as quality for the price?</TD></TR></TABLE>


I feel u man I have 3 kids and a house payment and it took me 3 years to build my motor for my teg!!!! BTW iIm from el paso too brotha!!!

 

If you truly are on a budget build, I would ditch the p&p + 3 angle valve job.

You can hit 180 with well thought out boltons and cams such as Blox A's and Skunk2 Stage 1's on an untouched head.

 

Nice gsr i got buddy club 3+ cams + valve train for sale give an offer!!

 

damn trial user and 5 posts per 24 hours... So I'll try to address everything.

vtec: yes, in TX you can shoot someone on your property and you're covered by the law.. Texas FTW!

Danssi: Where you at in EP? Hit me up in a PM or something sometime.. I've only been here for a few months this time and am not that impressed with a lot of the Honda scene..(JDMKidz and the likes.. lol) I've been thinking about putting a club together or at a minimum, I'm a photographer and would like to line up some shoots here.

And fear not, I will not ruin this car.. I'm very picky about my cars and how I spend my money on them. My WRX is a good example of this. It's not the fastest WRX in the world, but it's well put together, and I've ran it modded for 40k miles with 0 problems. I don't halfass things. I research everything before I buy and do the work myself.. If it's above my level, I'll have a shop that I trust do it. Which works out well because a friend of the family works at Imerj auto here it EP.. it's a very respected local honda tuning shop. Which is also why the headwork can be fit into the budget.

 

learn how to do your own port work. standard abrasives has a video that shows you the basics of head porting. there are 3 things you want to focus on. the short turn radius, the bowl and removing casting flaws. 5-6hrs of your time and a $50 sanding roll kit will net you HP. the smaller cam you can use to hit 180whp the better. i'd be looking at every trick i could to keep the duration down and still hit your goal.

 

[<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B18CEJ205 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Yep.. PB-76P I believe is the code, Deep Violet Clearcoat.
.</TD></TR></TABLE>

holy **** i love that color and that car is super clean