H22 parts
I just bought an H22, and I plan on rebuilding it just to be safe.
First off, a friend of mine is stripping his car. I will be buying his skunk 2 dual valve springs, skunk 2 hich comp 1mm over sized valves and titanium retianers. Along with the cam seal.
Would it be ok to put those partsd in my h22 head? I also plan on a port and polish as well.
He also has some Eagle H-Beam Rods and Mahle 11.5:1 CR FRM Pistons that I plan on buying, so same question above for these, would it be ok to put these into my block?
I plan to have the block honed, resurfaced along with the head. A balnce shaft removal kit, egr delete, good brand header, 3" exhaust, BBK 68mm throttle body, and a chipped p28 to bring it all together. And I plan on getting the rebuild kit from importperformanceparts.net from the oem line made by top line? Is that a reputable name?
Any suggestions or comments?
First off, a friend of mine is stripping his car. I will be buying his skunk 2 dual valve springs, skunk 2 hich comp 1mm over sized valves and titanium retianers. Along with the cam seal.
Would it be ok to put those partsd in my h22 head? I also plan on a port and polish as well.
He also has some Eagle H-Beam Rods and Mahle 11.5:1 CR FRM Pistons that I plan on buying, so same question above for these, would it be ok to put these into my block?
I plan to have the block honed, resurfaced along with the head. A balnce shaft removal kit, egr delete, good brand header, 3" exhaust, BBK 68mm throttle body, and a chipped p28 to bring it all together. And I plan on getting the rebuild kit from importperformanceparts.net from the oem line made by top line? Is that a reputable name?
Any suggestions or comments?
I don't see why you need a less reliable valve train without any bigger cams. Also be very sure that the place you have hone your block is well versed with FRM sleeves.
I plan on getting cams soon after the build...
But what do you mean by the shop being well versed with frm sleeves. Does it take more work than regular blocks? Please explain...
But what do you mean by the shop being well versed with frm sleeves. Does it take more work than regular blocks? Please explain...
FRM = Fiber Reinforced Metal. It's nothing like honing a regular sleeve...I won't claim to know all the technical details, but there is more potential for problems if it is not done right. I have read many threads about it before so you should be able to do a little searching and find some answers. I believe you need a special stone, and the Helms manual should have the procedure listed in it.
I did find this with some quick searching if it helps:
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The AERA Technical Committee offers the following information on a cylinder boring/honing caution for 1992-96 Honda 2.3L engines. This engine is used in their Prelude vehicles and uses a fiber-reinforced metal (FRM) in the cylinder bores. Those bores are also a nonferrous metal and require special attention during the oversize operations.
During manufacturing, a rigid hone using a GC-600-J or finer stone designed for nonferrous metal was used to finish hone the cylinder bores. Honing pressure should be adjusted to 29-43 psi (200-300 kpa), while the hone head is rotating at 45-50 rpm. The desired crosshatch pattern is 60° for a proper piston ring seal. To prevent stone loading and debris build-up, cleaning the stones every five cycles is recommended.
After the bores have been honed to final size, the block should be cleaned with hot, soapy water and then dried. A cleaning solvent is not advised as it has a tendency to only redistribute honing grit.
Aftermarket honing stone suppliers have found using a silicon carbide, 400 grit stone provides the desired finish and crosshatch required for this cylinder block.</TD></TR></TABLE>
/\/\The H22 has the same block...
I did find this with some quick searching if it helps:
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The AERA Technical Committee offers the following information on a cylinder boring/honing caution for 1992-96 Honda 2.3L engines. This engine is used in their Prelude vehicles and uses a fiber-reinforced metal (FRM) in the cylinder bores. Those bores are also a nonferrous metal and require special attention during the oversize operations.
During manufacturing, a rigid hone using a GC-600-J or finer stone designed for nonferrous metal was used to finish hone the cylinder bores. Honing pressure should be adjusted to 29-43 psi (200-300 kpa), while the hone head is rotating at 45-50 rpm. The desired crosshatch pattern is 60° for a proper piston ring seal. To prevent stone loading and debris build-up, cleaning the stones every five cycles is recommended.
After the bores have been honed to final size, the block should be cleaned with hot, soapy water and then dried. A cleaning solvent is not advised as it has a tendency to only redistribute honing grit.
Aftermarket honing stone suppliers have found using a silicon carbide, 400 grit stone provides the desired finish and crosshatch required for this cylinder block.</TD></TR></TABLE>
/\/\The H22 has the same block...
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beans333
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Jun 20, 2013 08:43 PM




