ok i decided to change the head gasket on my z6 from a fel-pro P.O.S. to a 3 layer metal one,and change the cam to a crower stage 2 turbo. Since i went back in, i decided to go with head studs instead of bolts the problem is i can't find any
anyone know where i can find any. I contacted arp and they don't make a kit
anyone????

 

edit: removed wrong info..


Modified by sanimalp at 11:23 AM 8/13/2008

 

I actually bought ARP head studs for my mini-me. Got them from a honda-tech member here:
http://shopping.lightningmotor...age=1

 

i used arp head studs on a z6 too but this was years ago. you can probably still find them though.

 

Someone care to explain why studs instead of bolts for us lesser informed?

Edit: read up on it myself.. here is what i found from here http://www.alamomotorsports.co....html

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">HEAD STUDS vs. BOLTS...A TECHNICAL DISCUSSION

ARP's factory Tech Representatives are often asked which is better, cylinder head studs or bolts. The answer, invariably, depends on the installation. On many street-driven vehicles, where master cylinders and other items protrude into the engine compartment, it's probably necessary to use head bolts so that the cylinder heads can be removed with the engine in the car.

For most applications, however, studs are recommended. And for good reason. Using studs will make it much easier to assemble an engine (especially a racing powerplant which must be serviced frequently and quickly!) with the cylinder head and gasket assured of proper alignment. Alamo Motorsports offers the complete line of ARP Head Studs in addition to ARP Head bolts.

Studs also provide more accurate and consistent torque loading. Here's why. When you use bolts to secure the head, the fastener is actually being "twisted" while it's being torqued to the proper reading. Accordingly, the bolt is reacting to two different forces simultaneously. A stud should be installed in a "relaxed" mode - never crank it in tightly using a jammed nut.

If everything is right, the stud should be installed finger tight. Then, when applying torque to the nut, the stud will stretch only on the vertical axis. Remember, an undercut shorter stud will have a rate similar to a longer, standard shank stud. This provides a more even clamping force on the head. Because the head gasket will compress upon initial torquing, make sure studs and bolts are re-torqued after the engine has been run.</TD></TR></TABLE>

The moral of the story is that you ensure proper head gasket alignment with studs, and the stud provides more consistent torque loading. That is good enough reason for me to switch. I didn't think about the head gasket alignment problem before, because I have never had it.


Modified by sanimalp at 11:23 AM 8/13/2008

 

When reading up on the mini-me swap, I came across this and it mentioned ARP head studs...

http://crx.honda-perf.org/arti....html

 

ARP 208-4301

http://store.summitracing.com/...w=sku

 

ordered, thanks jlicrx
i'll dance at your wedding