Ok i was wanting to know if it is possible to take a B18b bottom end and put a b16 vtec head on it?....I have a b18b and of course its non vtec...i want vtec, cus i plan on later putting a turbo on.....and that would be another question is is worth the work and money to trubo it or even vtec it??

 

The b18b motor is commonly referred to as the LS motor. The common term for an LS motor with VTEC is LS/VTEC or LS VTEC.

Searching those terms will give you a great deal of information on the subject and the kits that are available.

 

Heres the URBAN DICTIONARYS definition:

ls vtec

Consisting mixing a non-vtec ls block with a vtec head in simple terms. Favorable swap by periatsi's because of low cost and power made. The downside durability, they don't last for ****.

I disagree with the durability quote. Its really a matter how much attention you put into building the bottom & top end IMO.

 

the bottom end is stock Ls....

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GirlsWorkonHondas2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the bottom end is stock Ls....</TD></TR></TABLE>

You could leave the bottom end stock, but what smart people do is replace the rod bolts (which are the #1 point of failure) with stronger ARP bolts. There are countless other additions/modifications that you can make to the stock bottom-end to make it mimic or exceed the strength and design of a GSR/ITR/B16 bottom-end with the exception of having oil squiters under the pistons.

Do a search and read-up on the write-ups.

 

doubt your gonna want to do lsvtec turbo, but like others have stated just do aslot of research on this subject and do it the proper way!

 

im running ls vtec-t pushing 18 lbs and it runs great. all depends on the quality parts, and tuner.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 96lsvtec-t &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">im running ls vtec-t pushing 18 lbs and it runs great. all depends on the quality parts, and tuner.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Did you check your oil pressure with a gauge after you installed the turbo?

I know that people run this setup and I,ve never heard any issues about this, but I've always been curious to know if you get adequate oil pressure to the bottom end since oil pressure is being divided amongst the head for VTEC, and the turbo for lubrication.

Obviously if your running this setup then your getting enough oil pressure to the bottom end otherwise it would have seized-up on your initial start-up, but is it enough to keep the bearing from wearing out with-in a matter of a few years?

I would assume that its no different then running a B18C/B16 with a turbo since VTEC requires oil pressure no matter if its feed internally within the block to head, or from an external line on the LS/V. But since the LS/V uses the external line to draw pressure its still an uncertainty I have about turbo'ing my LS/V.

 

http://hondaswap.com/general-t...32829/

http://www.team-integra.net/fo...Topic

i was going to do a lsvtec swap but its unreliable, friend of mine was going to help me cause hes done it on his older cars but now i think im saving up for a gsr motor more reliable =]

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by lilvietboy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i was going to do a lsvtec swap but its unreliable, friend of mine was going to help me cause hes done it on his older cars but now i think im saving up for a gsr motor more reliable =]</TD></TR></TABLE>

It's been proven many times over that a well built LSV can last for quite some time. The single most significant factor in the belief that LSV's lack reliability is one that's been overlooked by pretty much everyone. You don't build one to drive to the grocery store, you don't build one to commute back and forth to work, you build one to beat the living **** out of. The number of people I know who have or have had LSV's and treated them with civility is very small. If 20% of everyone with a particular motor beats the hell out of it and half of those blow up, you're still only looking at a 10% overall failure rate. If 80% of everyone with a particular motor beats the hell out of it and half of those blow up, you have a 40% overall failure rate. This is technically the same, but still looks awful on paper.

The rod bolt issue is very well documented and is usually one of the first things to come up in an LSV discussion, and for good reason. The OEM component was simply not engineered for the level of stress that it frequently receives. At this point, building one without addressing the rod bolt situation is kind of like skydiving without addressing the parachute situation. But it wasn't always so. A good many of the horror stories associated with this particular motor involved spun bearings due to rod bolt stretch. At the time it seemed damning, but this was also before the rod bolt issue was fairly common knowledge. There's no such thing as a "stock" LSV, but comparisons aren't necessarily out of the question. Take a well built LSV versus B16A or a B18C with the same modifications and treat it the same way. I think you'll find the failure rate isn't so terribly skewed.

I'm not saying that I would take an LSV over a B18C, in fact quite the opposite. I don't know if I have the motivation to put effort into building one, as they're quite a bit of work and, more often than not, quite a bit of headache. I'd be much happier spending an extra five or six hundred bucks for an ITR swap than for all the LSV components, simply because all I'd have to do is put the motor in. Regardless of the merits (or lack thereof) of certain things, sometimes simplicity wins on principle.

 

I'll throw in my 2 cents just because I threw one of these together and turbo'd it about 5 years ago... The bottom end was a completely stock B18A1 that I had laying around with unknown mileage. I picked up a JDM B16A with a broken rod and used the head. The head had a few significant scratches in the cam journals and the intake cam from where small pieces of metal were sucked up after the rod broke. I simply polished those out by hand with sandpaper. Nothing went off to the machine shop and I put it together in my garage. I used the GE dowel pins and a stock 3 layer LS metal headgasket which I reamed out the holes for the dowels with a drill. I used a Tunertoys oil line kit and that's about it for the parts. I reused the B16 headbolts which you should never do, mainly because they are slightly shorter and they were already used once... So basically just to cut down on all these "myths" about the LSVTEC's being unreliable, I intentionally cut a lot of corners on purpose to see if it would hold up and it did!

I ran a chipped ECU with an Uberdata basemap naturally aspirated for a few months until I pieced together all the turbo parts. Turbo setup - Neukin ramhorn mani, Precision SC50 turbo, Precision 550cc injectors, Tial 35mm with .5bar spring, JRC intercooler w/ 2.5" piping, 3" Inline Pro downpipe, Spoolin Performance dumptube, Walbro 255 pump. I ran around on a general boosted basemap for a few weeks until I went and had it street tuned then dyno tuned. Initial tuning was done at 7 psi because the needle valve in my boost controller was jacked. It put down 255hp / 203tq with a very nice torque curve and solid AF ratio. The thing held up on the dyno on a 97 degree day, a heat index of 103 with numerous pulls to 8K without a glitch. Boost was later raised to 12 psi and was approaching the 400hp territory.

I ran the setup daily for over 2 years, tuned on 93 pump octane with no issues at all. I get bored with things very quickly and sold everything. The motor was installed into a 99 Si coupe back to N/A and still running to this day with just a small amount of oil consumption. Of course this is more the exception than the rule and a long way of saying, YES it can be done and last without sinking an *** load of into it.

 

if you want to turbo, just buy a good condition LS head and get everything cleaned up and put it together or just buy a complete LS motor and turbo that.

witht he power your gonna make with the turbo, it wouldnt matter if you went LSvtec or not. so yah. thats just me though