Is 192.2 fwhp and 159.8whp a disaster on a dyno dynamics dyno?
Newly rebuilt H22A with type-s 11:1cr pistons and Type-S cams. Everything else stock - tuned with P72 + Neptune RTP. Stock IM + EM. Cat-back zorst, decat. I heard these dynos read low. I'm hoping so. Was hoping for more (min 200+).




Modified by tim.simpson at 4:14 PM 8/11/2008

 

nice. with the stock exhaust manifold your numbers are good. without the exhaust you might reach our goal....not to streetable tho

 

Thats actually pretty good.

 

Depends if this is actually wheel hp or the euro thing of flywheel horsepower (created by adding a mystery number to chassis dyno results).

Numbers aside, power is falling off up top awfully hard.

 

i wonder what the stock jdm type S dyno's in at as a comparison, might be a good way to visualize your gains

 

159.8 WHP sounds about right on a dyno dynamics.

 

I have used a Dyno Dynamics Dyno with a JDM H22A spoon chip p13 Intake and Exhaust no header. 184 whp 158 trq I have heard they are pretty conservative for a dynojet.

 

Yes. Its 192.2 flywheel horsepower. 159.8 wheel horse power. I have the top exhaust manifold section to fit from a Accord Type-R, nice SS piece with larger tubing and longer primaries. Just needs a bit of fabrication fit. I have skunk2 adj. cam gears but run out of time to start experimenting on the dyno. We tried -3* and +3* and power was lost. I think less is more on the cam timing. Anyone tried type-s cam settings?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by chimmychongaz &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">159.8 WHP sounds about right on a dyno dynamics.</TD></TR></TABLE>

i am mistaken.
not too sure what to say...is the engine healthy? type-s cams work well at 0,0

 

also their was a problem with the type-s cams on the stock valvetrain.........interferance meaning the keepers would bottom out

 

I am seeing restriction near the top. That power should hold to 8000 rpm.

 

Take it to another tuner.

 

We were aware of the Type-S(R) cam problems and the valve train was modified to cope. It was a brand new Honda head with portflow inner valve springs added and valve stem and retainer clearances modified.

 

who tuned your car btw (im also from the uk)

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Scheizty &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">That power should hold to 8000 rpm.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Lol, I've never seen type-S cams hold to 8000 but hey whatever.

Tim, stock header/B-pipe and cat are going to be the biggest restriction in your setup. Without a comparison of similar engines on that specific chassis dynamometer it's hard to say what you're actually making.

You could try to take it to a drag strip and have it weighed and see what the time is and use that as a basis for an empirical test. I know that drag strips there are real popular so if lieu of a strip you can try 0-60 tests with a stop watch and have te car weighed for a general idea of actual Hp.

 

The tuner was Matt @ theRacingLine.co.uk in Halifax. 20yrs dyno experience. Evo's, Skylines, and Honda's are a favourite. Used Hondata S300 before so Neptune RTP was very similar. Actually by the end he said he preferred it.

 

do you have honda's ignition advancement enabled in NepTune? Ran into this problem before, but your graph is smooth and doesnt tell me that too little ignition timing is being used.

 

Yes, ignition adjustments are enabled. The car has a 60mm decat and a 54mm ss cat-back system. Although the ex manifold is standard.

It looks like either my alternator or power steering pump or air-con bearings are bad. For a while the fan belt has been screeching on start-up but only in damp weather. Never thought about it twice as it only did it on wet days. Since 2 days ago, I noticed a horrible rumbling grinding noise after start-up that fades away after 1 min or so. After that there is faint whining noise but other than that car runs fine. Startup from warm is ok. It seems to be after being stood overnight.

Is this likely to be the air-con pump or alternator bearings? or even the p/s pump?
I've heard of clutches sticking or seizing on the air-con which means they drive all the time but this is a noise which fades away after a minute or so.

 

Well you could pull off belts until it goes away. Would be hard to differentiate between the alt and ac since they use the same belt...but I would be surprised if the AC made funny noises if it was off.

 

I just tune 94 close deck H22a sleeved 89mm bore 11.5:1CR
Jasma Headers 3' Exhaust 3'reso and Muffler
type S cams. ported head, Manley valves, springs,retener
Ported intake maniff without 4 throttle mid plate empty on.
No balancer belt
Hondata S200
Run 172Fpt@5600rpm at the Weel
233.9Whp
230Whp at 7400rpm and still 228Whp at cut off 8200rpm

 

if you dont have a aftermarket final drive installed you should be doing 3rd gear pulls, i bet that is why your missing that top end. When on a dyno you want the gear that gets you the closest 1:1 ratio, the dyno being 1. I have a 4.64 final drive we didnt reach peak hp till we did 4th gear pulls. My tuner figured that out on his own, because i didnt know that was important information at the time.

 

auto tensioner or manual?

 

That's actually pretty good. If you went with a euro-r IM and a 3" exhaust and a retune you'd EASILY hit 200whp

3" exhaust hp gains
http://www.preludepower.com/forums/s...eory+2.5+tuned

euro-r IM manifold hp gains
http://www.preludepower.com/forums/s...d.php?t=273022

 

I'm building the same engine setup. It should be done by next week. I'll keep you posted.

 

great article worth reading
http://www.pumaracing.co.uk/POWER3.htm