I thought this may fall under the fabrication section, so here it is. It's a B18 exhaust camshaft with the cam gear at the bottom. I used the crank pulley off of the same B18 but cut out the middle and bashed off the third belt section. The crank pulley is fixed to the cam gear with 4 bolts. The crank pulley wasn't quite as high as I liked so I cut out a circle of wood the same size and fixed it to the bottom to lift it up a bit. Pretty cool?

ps. the wall in some of the pictures is being renovated, so we've sort of drawn all over it.

*edit sorry some of them aren't rotated.

 

I like it except for the JB-Weld

 

the jb weld was absolutely necessary. copper pipe doesn't thread well.

 

nice, whats holding the copper to the cam?

are those rockers cut in half?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by i drive a honda &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">nice, whats holding the copper to the cam?

are those rockers cut in half? </TD></TR></TABLE>


there are two copper tubes holding them together as you can see in the last picture and those are rockers but they're not part of the structure, just for looks.

and they're not cut in half (b18 from a 96 integra)

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by kp &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the jb weld was absolutely necessary. copper pipe doesn't thread well. </TD></TR></TABLE>

you could maybe solder/braze them.

 

You should have used a VTEC cam. Maybe the light would have been a little brighter.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDMs1eeper &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

you could maybe solder/braze them. </TD></TR></TABLE>

The proplem there is that both of those methods need tremendous heat to work correctly. Unfortunately for my design, my wires run up the copper pipes, not up the cam. The heat would easily melt my wires and probably short out the whole lamp.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PPLH8R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You should have used a VTEC cam. Maybe the light would have been a little brighter. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Haha, no I think it would make it want to race everyother piece of furniture in my house.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by kp &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Haha, no I think it would make it want to race everyother piece of furniture in my house. </TD></TR></TABLE>
lol
Looks nice, man. something diffrent.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by kp &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The proplem there is that both of those methods need tremendous heat to work correctly. Unfortunately for my design, my wires run up the copper pipes, not up the cam. The heat would easily melt my wires and probably short out the whole lamp.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I'm work in the custom lighting manufacturing and design industry. You could have inserted an uninsulated wire, brazed, and then pulled your insulated wire through with some lube. Just a thought for next time

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Jasper_db1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I'm work in the custom lighting manufacturing and design industry. You could have inserted an uninsulated wire, brazed, and then pulled your insulated wire through with some lube. Just a thought for next time </TD></TR></TABLE>

Very very true. Cheers for the tip, i'll try something like that the next time i do tight wiring.