i bought a type s engine and im putting it into my 1999 prelude sh i noticed that the JDM wiring harness is different it comes out on the side of the water pump under the manifold and the USDM comes out by the tranny but if i swap wire harness then the distributor wont hook up right because the clips are different whats the solution? and is there any other problems im going to run into while trying to do this swap

 

Sorry, can't help you with the wiring harness. But make sure to use both jdm atts control unit and ecu. If you mix and match those two with usdm, you'll get atts codes.

 

So let me get this straight: JDM Type-S engines have ATTS?

 

Yes.

 

Oh... So ultimately, doing a JDM Type-S clip (i.e. Cutting my car in half, welding on the Type-S front end), the subframe and everything would potentially work with my USDM Type-SH motor?

 

If you want a rhd Prelude, that'd be just fine. If you don't want a rhd Prelude, why would you do that? I remember your other thread regarding just swapping the suspension from the clip, which wouldn't work with the steering rack and subframe. Do you have suspension problems with your Prelude currently?

 

no everything wouldnt work theres alot more sensors and other electronic things your better off starting out with and SH.

Can anyone give me some answers maybe someone who has done this swap

 

I've heard conflicting information as to where the CKP and TDC sensors are on a JDM Type-S motor.

Is there a little 4 pin connector that comes out the back of the lower timing cover?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vinuneuro &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you want a rhd Prelude, that'd be just fine. If you don't want a rhd Prelude, why would you do that? I remember your other thread regarding just swapping the suspension from the clip, which wouldn't work with the steering rack and subframe. Do you have suspension problems with your Prelude currently?</TD></TR></TABLE>

No, I didn't want to change just suspension components, I wanted to clip the car to make it RHD, I just wanted to make sure the subframe would work with the ATTS unit.

The frame on my car is slightly bent (Not the actual frame rails, but the front of the car on the passenger side is bent just enough to move the front/passenger wheel about an inch back... It bugs the absolute **** out of me), so it's either pull it, or clip it.

Clipping it would be the much more expensive route, but it would be pretty damn unique around here... I actually hate the whole JDM craze, I'm just looking for a unique look, plus it'd be cheaper than a USDM clip (Believe me, I've looked into this deep).

I'll end up getting it pulled, I'm sure.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by kadidle &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">no everything wouldnt work theres alot more sensors and other electronic things your better off starting out with and SH.

Can anyone give me some answers maybe someone who has done this swap</TD></TR></TABLE>

A guy I know had this swap done. I'll see if he'd mind chiming in this thread.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GO-FIGHT-KILL &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

No, I didn't want to change just suspension components, I wanted to clip the car to make it RHD, I just wanted to make sure the subframe would work with the ATTS unit.

The frame on my car is slightly bent (Not the actual frame rails, but the front of the car on the passenger side is bent just enough to move the front/passenger wheel about an inch back... It bugs the absolute **** out of me), so it's either pull it, or clip it.

Clipping it would be the much more expensive route, but it would be pretty damn unique around here... I actually hate the whole JDM craze, I'm just looking for a unique look, plus it'd be cheaper than a USDM clip (Believe me, I've looked into this deep).

I'll end up getting it pulled, I'm sure.</TD></TR></TABLE>

If it's not the frame that's bent, what's bent? How much is your caster of spec by? You can replace either the front or rear subframe if that's the case. The front/front subframe is $279 from Majestic. That's not bad all considering. If the caster isn't out of spec by a ton, I'd just replace the radius rod with the appropriate one to bring it back in spec.

I wouldn't do the clip. It's a crapload of labor. I'm sure the clip and more importantly the labor, would easily exceed the value of the vehicle to do it right. Remember Jack's EG clip swap? Over 80hours of labor. Different strokes, but I wouldn't spend that much mulah just to be different.

 

Please note:

I have replaced every single suspension component in the front of the vehicle... Knuckle/hub, radius rod, lower-control arm, tie rod, sway bar end link, front/front subframe, front/rear subframe, center brace... Everything. The car hit the curb at 75MPH (Prior to my ownership, I purchased it wrecked under the assumption it would be a quick fix... I was REALLY wrong).

The frame isn't bent, it's just kinked at the very front.

The car's just a project, I really don't mind it being cut in half. I work at a shop, the tools are readily available, and not to mention, our shop fabricator who builds tube chassis vehicles (i.e. This would be rather simple) is down to give a hand.

Jack and I went over the entire process, it doesn't seem all that difficult.

I dunno', like I said, I'll probably just get the frame pulled, but it's something I do want to do in the future.

 

How much is the caster out of spec by currently?


Modified by vinuneuro at 12:34 AM 8/6/2008

 

Not even sure, I'm not bothering to try another alignment until I can clearly tell the wheel is straight (i.e. Get it pulled, or clip the front end).

It's about 1.0"-1.5" back, though. Enough to **** me off.

 

can anyone answer my original question ?

 

Does your motor have the crank position sensors at the oil pump?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vinuneuro &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Does your motor have the crank position sensors at the oil pump?</TD></TR></TABLE>

That is in fact the relevant question to answer.

 

No there is no knock sensor or crank sensor why is this and is it a bad thing ?


Modified by kadidle at 12:26 PM 8/8/2008

 

bump

 

Well if you want to make it work with an unmodified USDM harness, plugging in everything (as opposed to wiring in things), you'll need to swap over the US coil, US distributor, US CKP/TDC crank sensors (and oil pump I imagine, so that you can mount them up).

I'm surprised that it doesn't have a KS.

If you felt like only using the JDM ECU you could keep the JDM distributor, and do some wiring to connect the TDC/CKP that comes out of that to your US harness.

And if you feel like wiring you could use the JDM distributor for the first solution as well, just without using all of it's sensors and I guess using the internal coil...

 

I highly doubt the engine doesn't have a knock sensor.

He has to make everything work with the jdm ecu for the engine to run properly. It sounds like the Type-S and other jdm swap engines are obd1. Couldn't he just use an obd2-&gt;obd1 harness at the ecu and solve all these problems?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vinuneuro &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I highly doubt the engine doesn't have a knock sensor.

He has to make everything work with the jdm ecu for the engine to run properly. It sounds like the Type-S and other jdm swap engines are obd1. Couldn't he just use an obd2-&gt;obd1 harness at the ecu and solve all these problems?</TD></TR></TABLE>

No...late model JDM Prelude ECU has the same style ECU as a late model US Prelude.

With wiring work (to adapt things to the US harness, namely ignition coil and CKP/TDC sensor location) the JDM ECU will run the engine as-is. The US ECU will want to see the CKP/TDC sensors on the crankshaft. If you swap those around and use the US distributor/coil then it should all be plug and play...although if you really don't have a KS that could be a problem with at least the US ECU.


That is still assuming that he's correct when he's saying CKP and TDC sensors are not on the crank for the JDM Type-S. Which is what I would expect but I've heard conflicting things...

edit: and when I said "unmodified US harness" I meant that, and US ECU. Or ECM, since we're talking about OBD2 crap here

At any rate the wires coming out of the distributor are different because while the US distributor has the following in it:
CYP

The JDM distributor has:
CYP
CKP
TDC
Ignition coil

in it.

 

Well, he's got to run the JDM ecu. I'm sure both fuel and ignition timing would be different because of the higher comp and different cams. Looks like he has a little wiring ahead of him if his type-s indeed doesn't have the ckp/tdc sensors at the oil pump.

 

all i want to know is that if not having a knock sensor and crank sensor will increase the chances of something going wrong? is it a beneficial to have these sensors ?

 

CKP and TDC are essential to engine function, either in the JDM/US OBD1 style (distributor) or the US OBD2 style (oil pump/crank snout). However I have run a US OBD2 ECM with CKP and TDC in the dizzy and it didn't like it.

I don't think the US ECM would like no KS, but I can't say for sure. You're really sure it's not there? There should be at least a place for it to attach.