Toyo r888's?
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From: Redding, CA
Toyo r888's?
So I've been autocrossing for a couple years now with my civic and I'm thinking of stepping up to some better tires. Right now I'm running Toyo Proxes 4's in 205/40/17, I'm thinking about picking up a set of new lightweight 15" wheels with 205/50/15's just for the track. The deal I'm looking at includes a set of new toyo r888's.
Basically my question is are these a good option for me? Is there something better in the price range? I want a very good tire for autox that will give me about 2 full seasons or more and that I can drive on to the track (just a few miles). They will only be used on the track and to and from, no daily use.
Here's a little about my setup if its needed, 98 civic ex, b18c1, tein basics, ctr rear sway bar, asr brace, skunk2 lca's, rear discs and so on...
Appreciate your help
Basically my question is are these a good option for me? Is there something better in the price range? I want a very good tire for autox that will give me about 2 full seasons or more and that I can drive on to the track (just a few miles). They will only be used on the track and to and from, no daily use.
Here's a little about my setup if its needed, 98 civic ex, b18c1, tein basics, ctr rear sway bar, asr brace, skunk2 lca's, rear discs and so on...
Appreciate your help
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Re: Toyo r888's? (steve98ex)
it will be hard to get a rcompound tire to last 2 seasons with driving it to and from the event (unless it really is only <1 miles and you baby them)
the R888's are great tires and my buddy has gotten alot of track+auto-x time on them but in his s2k he still manages to fit all 4 of the tires in his car to take them to the track with him to put them on, along with pads, rotors, jack, tools.
R888's lasted along time for him (i think its about 2 seasons now) and I don't know why you wouldn't just put them on at the track, but I do think they would be fine for short distances.
the R888's are great tires and my buddy has gotten alot of track+auto-x time on them but in his s2k he still manages to fit all 4 of the tires in his car to take them to the track with him to put them on, along with pads, rotors, jack, tools.
R888's lasted along time for him (i think its about 2 seasons now) and I don't know why you wouldn't just put them on at the track, but I do think they would be fine for short distances.
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Re: Toyo r888's? (unrealwrc)
I think the R888 is fine. It's a good R compound tire, and attractively priced.
Just note that you are going from really crappy all-season tires (the Proxes 4) to really sticky R compound tires, so you're going to be learning to drive all over again. Instead of your tires sliding, sliding, sliding, sliding, sliding, you're going to find the R comps gripping, gripping, gripping, gripping, and then gone. You're going from tons of warning when they lose grip, to virtually none at all. Night and day. You'll love 'em, once you get used to 'em.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by unrealwrc »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">it will be hard to get a rcompound tire to last 2 seasons with driving it to and from the event (unless it really is only <1 miles and you baby them)</TD></TR></TABLE>
Huh? He said it's only a few miles. Heck, I leave my R comps on the car when I'm driving between the track and the hotel each day during an event, and at some tracks that's 20+ miles each way. You're not going to use up the tires all that fast that way. Sure, if it's a few hundred miles each way to get there, but not local driving to an autocross.
Just note that you are going from really crappy all-season tires (the Proxes 4) to really sticky R compound tires, so you're going to be learning to drive all over again. Instead of your tires sliding, sliding, sliding, sliding, sliding, you're going to find the R comps gripping, gripping, gripping, gripping, and then gone. You're going from tons of warning when they lose grip, to virtually none at all. Night and day. You'll love 'em, once you get used to 'em.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by unrealwrc »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">it will be hard to get a rcompound tire to last 2 seasons with driving it to and from the event (unless it really is only <1 miles and you baby them)</TD></TR></TABLE>
Huh? He said it's only a few miles. Heck, I leave my R comps on the car when I'm driving between the track and the hotel each day during an event, and at some tracks that's 20+ miles each way. You're not going to use up the tires all that fast that way. Sure, if it's a few hundred miles each way to get there, but not local driving to an autocross.
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From: Iowa
Re: (steve98ex)
I run Toyo Proxes RA1s on my CRX when driving to and from the track, and for wet weather. The wear rate on Toyos is excellent, in terms of a long lasting R-compound. There are definately faster tires out there though for ultimate speed and grip.
I would honestly get a set of Kosei K1s with Kumho V710s on them. I run those in 205/50R15. I can fit all four of them in my CRX with full interior and roll bar, so you can definately fit them in a Civic.
The nice thing about Hondas is the center lift point for the front and rear. So even with hand tools it doesn't take that long to change them.
If you don't have a battery impact, wait for a sale on DeWalt or Milwaukee and get one. It will make your life so much easier.
I got a DeWalt 18V impact with case, two batteries, and a charger for under $200.
Modified by court76wi at 8:56 AM 8/6/2008
I would honestly get a set of Kosei K1s with Kumho V710s on them. I run those in 205/50R15. I can fit all four of them in my CRX with full interior and roll bar, so you can definately fit them in a Civic.
The nice thing about Hondas is the center lift point for the front and rear. So even with hand tools it doesn't take that long to change them.
If you don't have a battery impact, wait for a sale on DeWalt or Milwaukee and get one. It will make your life so much easier.
I got a DeWalt 18V impact with case, two batteries, and a charger for under $200.Modified by court76wi at 8:56 AM 8/6/2008
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From: Iowa
Re: (steve98ex)
I'm on my second season now, and their wear rate isn't too bad. Faster than the Toyos of course, but I prefer the speed of the Kumhos, which is a lot quicker. The Toyos won't even get a good chance to warm up to effective temps since they're meant for track, and Civics are lightweight cars. Looking at my Kumhos now, I'd easily say another two seasons if not more. I know some people that have over 3 seasons on them.
I mark them for rotation after every race to even out the wear on them, and even though it probably isn't necessary I sometimes bring a 1 gal water sprayer with me when it's really hot outside. After a couple quick succession laps I might give them a quick spray just to cool them a bit.
The water sprayer is just a habit from when I used to run Falkens in STS. Falkens get so greasy after one or two laps that it's basically a necessity. Either that or if a water hose was available, I'd wet the concrete quickly and run my car over it.
Modified by court76wi at 8:57 AM 8/6/2008
I mark them for rotation after every race to even out the wear on them, and even though it probably isn't necessary I sometimes bring a 1 gal water sprayer with me when it's really hot outside. After a couple quick succession laps I might give them a quick spray just to cool them a bit.
The water sprayer is just a habit from when I used to run Falkens in STS. Falkens get so greasy after one or two laps that it's basically a necessity. Either that or if a water hose was available, I'd wet the concrete quickly and run my car over it.
Modified by court76wi at 8:57 AM 8/6/2008
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From: Luebeck, Schleswig-Holstein, Germany
Re: (court76wi)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by court76wi »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I sometimes bring a 1 gal water sprayer with me when it's really hot outside. After a couple quick succession laps I might give them a quick spray just to cool them a bit.
The water sprayer is just a habit from when I used to run Falkens in STS. Falkens get so greasy after one or two laps that it's basically a necessity. Either that or if a water hose was available, I'd wet the concrete quickly and run my car over it.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
for water sprayer, you can also cool the tires/wheels down to change them after a race... if you ever changed at the track.
I sometimes bring a 1 gal water sprayer with me when it's really hot outside. After a couple quick succession laps I might give them a quick spray just to cool them a bit.
The water sprayer is just a habit from when I used to run Falkens in STS. Falkens get so greasy after one or two laps that it's basically a necessity. Either that or if a water hose was available, I'd wet the concrete quickly and run my car over it.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
for water sprayer, you can also cool the tires/wheels down to change them after a race... if you ever changed at the track.
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From: Iowa
Re: (unrealwrc)
I always change my tires at the track.
The water sprayer is for in-between laps so they don't overheat too much. It's usually not much of a problem, but when it's really hot and a limited number of cars are at the track, you run so quickly between laps that it's sometimes a nice thing to do.
Again, if you're running Falkens, I definately wouldn't leave home without one. Otherwise you might as well hang it up after 2 laps per run group...
Note: if you progress to DOT slicks, I would definately recommend bringing a bristle brush or tire totes with you. Otherwise you're going to find track rubber, rocks, and sand all over the interior of you car when you're transporting 'em. I bristle brush them quick after a race to get most of the crap off of them.
The water sprayer is for in-between laps so they don't overheat too much. It's usually not much of a problem, but when it's really hot and a limited number of cars are at the track, you run so quickly between laps that it's sometimes a nice thing to do.
Again, if you're running Falkens, I definately wouldn't leave home without one. Otherwise you might as well hang it up after 2 laps per run group...
Note: if you progress to DOT slicks, I would definately recommend bringing a bristle brush or tire totes with you. Otherwise you're going to find track rubber, rocks, and sand all over the interior of you car when you're transporting 'em. I bristle brush them quick after a race to get most of the crap off of them.
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From: Iowa
Re: (steve98ex)
P.S. If it's not in your arsenal already, I'd also recommend getting a set of adjustable upper arms for the rear. They're relatively easy to install. You can get real decent knockoff ones on eBay for under $50 sometimes. Civics/CRXs don't get a whole lot of negative camber on the rears when lowering.
I'm only running -2 deg on mine, and you can see in the picture above how my rear tire is practically vertical when cornering.
Another thing I see people do is it over-do-it when it comes to tire pressure. Of course negative camber helps with lower pressures, I'm only running 34 psi front and 28 psi rear and I get even wear across the tire (cold pressure). Before I added the rear upper adjustable arms I ran 29-30 psi in the rear. Car still oversteers like cake.
I run into some people running over 40 psi cold pressure with lowered cars and neg camber, and I just scratch my head at that concept. I can see that pressure running "stock," but not how their cars are set up.
I'm only running -2 deg on mine, and you can see in the picture above how my rear tire is practically vertical when cornering.
Another thing I see people do is it over-do-it when it comes to tire pressure. Of course negative camber helps with lower pressures, I'm only running 34 psi front and 28 psi rear and I get even wear across the tire (cold pressure). Before I added the rear upper adjustable arms I ran 29-30 psi in the rear. Car still oversteers like cake.
I run into some people running over 40 psi cold pressure with lowered cars and neg camber, and I just scratch my head at that concept. I can see that pressure running "stock," but not how their cars are set up.
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I suppose I could put them on at the track, I was trying to save myself a few minutes of sleep on a sunday morning lol.
So you think the v710's are the way to go, why those over other slicks like Hoosiers if I'm going to spend around $200 each. Also, would you recommend getting them heat cycled?
Thanks for your help
So you think the v710's are the way to go, why those over other slicks like Hoosiers if I'm going to spend around $200 each. Also, would you recommend getting them heat cycled?
Thanks for your help
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From: Iowa
Re: (steve98ex)
I thought the same way when I first started, in terms of saving time by driving on the race tires to the track. But you'll have so much more fun with the extra speed that the hassle will be well worth it. It's also less of a hassle with a battery impact.
Why Kumhos over Hoosiers? Well, I can give you my opinion and what I've heard, unfortunately I've never run Hoosiers so I can't give you an fair comparison.
Between the two, Kumho V710s are still more widely used than Hoosier A6s in AutoX, especially with smaller cars. So that says something there.
The Kumho V710s have a longer tread life than the Hoosiers. It would be nice to get extra season or more out of tires that expensive. From what I hear the Kumhos are also more heat tolerant than the A6s.
The Hoosiers will definitely be the ultimate grip masters - hands down. From what I hear though, they almost grip too much for their own good. When reaching their maximum grip, they tend to "pile up" some, actually slowing down the car in order to complete the turn. When they do let loose though, I hear the Hoosiers do it quick and fast, with almost little warning. The Kumhos give you a little bit of slip, so the vehicle doesn't slow down as much and you loose the race by hitting a cone or missing a gate, but not by going slower or spinning out. I believe this is why most people call the Kumhos a "quicker" tire, because the more you push them the faster you go, while the Hoosiers tend to limit you from going any faster. The Kumhos supposedly give you a better feel for when you're approaching the limit, and are easier to recover with.
All I can say is with my car, and how I got it set up, it's really easy to tell when the rear end of car is about to come loose. You can feel it coming, and you can either correct before it happens or use the oversteer to your advantage. And they're relatively easy to recover with if you do the latter.
That's just my opinion though. I'm very happy with the Kumhos and how my car handles with them. I'd be hard pressed to switch to Hoosiers at this point. And yes, heat cycle the V710s if you get them.
In my current SOLO club, no one runs Hoosiers. One person did for a couple races and then abandoned them. For DOT R-comp it's the Kumho V710, followed by the Nitto NT01, and then just a rare few run Toyo R888s. The R888 drivers also weekend track their cars, so they're "dual use". The Nittos are on the V8 cars, none are on the lighter vehicles.
Again, that's just me. Anyone can feel free to disagree. Also do some searches for 710s and A6s and see if anyone else on Honda-Tech gives their opinion.
Modified by court76wi at 10:51 PM 8/6/2008
Why Kumhos over Hoosiers? Well, I can give you my opinion and what I've heard, unfortunately I've never run Hoosiers so I can't give you an fair comparison.
Between the two, Kumho V710s are still more widely used than Hoosier A6s in AutoX, especially with smaller cars. So that says something there.
The Kumho V710s have a longer tread life than the Hoosiers. It would be nice to get extra season or more out of tires that expensive. From what I hear the Kumhos are also more heat tolerant than the A6s.
The Hoosiers will definitely be the ultimate grip masters - hands down. From what I hear though, they almost grip too much for their own good. When reaching their maximum grip, they tend to "pile up" some, actually slowing down the car in order to complete the turn. When they do let loose though, I hear the Hoosiers do it quick and fast, with almost little warning. The Kumhos give you a little bit of slip, so the vehicle doesn't slow down as much and you loose the race by hitting a cone or missing a gate, but not by going slower or spinning out. I believe this is why most people call the Kumhos a "quicker" tire, because the more you push them the faster you go, while the Hoosiers tend to limit you from going any faster. The Kumhos supposedly give you a better feel for when you're approaching the limit, and are easier to recover with.
All I can say is with my car, and how I got it set up, it's really easy to tell when the rear end of car is about to come loose. You can feel it coming, and you can either correct before it happens or use the oversteer to your advantage. And they're relatively easy to recover with if you do the latter.
That's just my opinion though. I'm very happy with the Kumhos and how my car handles with them. I'd be hard pressed to switch to Hoosiers at this point. And yes, heat cycle the V710s if you get them.
In my current SOLO club, no one runs Hoosiers. One person did for a couple races and then abandoned them. For DOT R-comp it's the Kumho V710, followed by the Nitto NT01, and then just a rare few run Toyo R888s. The R888 drivers also weekend track their cars, so they're "dual use". The Nittos are on the V8 cars, none are on the lighter vehicles.
Again, that's just me. Anyone can feel free to disagree. Also do some searches for 710s and A6s and see if anyone else on Honda-Tech gives their opinion.
Modified by court76wi at 10:51 PM 8/6/2008
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well I do like buying new tools... haha
I appreciate your info, lots of good stuff, its nice to hear it actually backed up with experience too.
I'll keep reading up and see what I come up with. I may just get a set of light wheels then go to the race tire guy at the track, he sells used slicks for cheap. That way I can see what they're like before I dive in
I appreciate your info, lots of good stuff, its nice to hear it actually backed up with experience too.
I'll keep reading up and see what I come up with. I may just get a set of light wheels then go to the race tire guy at the track, he sells used slicks for cheap. That way I can see what they're like before I dive in
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Re: (steve98ex)
i hate the 888..
its over heat to fast. 30min hard driven on the trak and the tiers ara over heat...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D-GFNQBKILo
its over heat to fast. 30min hard driven on the trak and the tiers ara over heat...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D-GFNQBKILo
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Re: (Linus_E)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Linus_E »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i hate the 888..
its over heat to fast. 30min hard driven on the trak and the tiers ara over heat...</TD></TR></TABLE>
Did you have the same issue with the RA-1?
its over heat to fast. 30min hard driven on the trak and the tiers ara over heat...</TD></TR></TABLE>
Did you have the same issue with the RA-1?
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From: Iowa
Re: (steve98ex)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by steve98ex »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I may just get a set of light wheels then go to the race tire guy at the track, he sells used slicks for cheap. That way I can see what they're like before I dive in</TD></TR></TABLE>
That's an even better idea right there. Cheap used tires are an easy way to judge for yourself...
That's an even better idea right there. Cheap used tires are an easy way to judge for yourself...
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From: Siege Perilous
Re: (Linus_E)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Linus_E »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i hate the 888..
its over heat to fast. 30min hard driven on the trak and the tiers ara over heat...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D-GFNQBKILo</TD></TR></TABLE>
By any chance, were these full tread?
its over heat to fast. 30min hard driven on the trak and the tiers ara over heat...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D-GFNQBKILo</TD></TR></TABLE>
By any chance, were these full tread?
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From: Iowa
Re: (George Knighton)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by George Knighton »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
By any chance, were these full tread?</TD></TR></TABLE>
George,
I know two guys with BMWs that track full depth R888s, they don't have any overheat problems. The R888 is also the new NASA spec tire, if they had overheating problems it would definately be known by now. They have large tread blocks like Nittos, so I wouldn't think that full depth would impact as much as the RA1s, but if in doubt shave them. (I haven't heard of Nitto NT01s overheating at full depth, but anything is possible)
Most overheating problems are caused by incorrect tire pressures, and/or the vehicle doesn't have enough negative camber to prevent the tire from rolling over and they're burning up the outside edge.
I wouldn't take a simple responce of "i hate them, they overheat" as a good opinion to go by. Not unless Linus_E can clarify for you. When running new tires you need to start out slow, check pressures, etc. Some people just throw a new set of tires on, inflate to their previous tire's pressures, and then hate 'em because they don't run as good as their previous tires at those pressures or they end up toasting 'em right away for the same reason.
I'd say just run 'em if that's the tire your interested in. The only real objection would be if it's a tire that's more meant for AutoX, but R888s are designed for track use.
By any chance, were these full tread?</TD></TR></TABLE>
George,
I know two guys with BMWs that track full depth R888s, they don't have any overheat problems. The R888 is also the new NASA spec tire, if they had overheating problems it would definately be known by now. They have large tread blocks like Nittos, so I wouldn't think that full depth would impact as much as the RA1s, but if in doubt shave them. (I haven't heard of Nitto NT01s overheating at full depth, but anything is possible)
Most overheating problems are caused by incorrect tire pressures, and/or the vehicle doesn't have enough negative camber to prevent the tire from rolling over and they're burning up the outside edge.
I wouldn't take a simple responce of "i hate them, they overheat" as a good opinion to go by. Not unless Linus_E can clarify for you. When running new tires you need to start out slow, check pressures, etc. Some people just throw a new set of tires on, inflate to their previous tire's pressures, and then hate 'em because they don't run as good as their previous tires at those pressures or they end up toasting 'em right away for the same reason.
I'd say just run 'em if that's the tire your interested in. The only real objection would be if it's a tire that's more meant for AutoX, but R888s are designed for track use.
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From: Luebeck, Schleswig-Holstein, Germany
Re: (Linus_E)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Linus_E »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i hate the 888..
its over heat to fast. 30min hard driven on the trak and the tiers ara over heat...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D-GFNQBKILo</TD></TR></TABLE>
for english
O and how are you "noticing" them "over-heat" braking? My buddy runs hard on his during 30 minutes + sessions and doesn't seem to have a problem in his s2k
its over heat to fast. 30min hard driven on the trak and the tiers ara over heat...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D-GFNQBKILo</TD></TR></TABLE>
for english O and how are you "noticing" them "over-heat" braking? My buddy runs hard on his during 30 minutes + sessions and doesn't seem to have a problem in his s2k
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From: Iowa
Re: (steve98ex)
For wheels, I'd try to stick with 7" or wider just to help out more with handling. I'd say 7" is just right though with 205 tires.
If you can't find used wheels, the cheapest widely used race wheels are the Kosei K1s, which TireRack is closing out now at $115 a piece. They're only 13.5 lbs roughly, are low pressure cast and shot peened. You won't find a wheel like that anywhere else. The K1 is being discontinued for the K1 TS.
Team Dynamics is another one, since they're used for Spec Miata they're generally not too expensive. Good-Win-Racing has quite a supply, you might find cheaper looking around.
There are some other low cost alternatives out there that are very good, but generally more weight or a 6.5" wheel width is what you get.
The Konig Rewind is a newer 15x7 that's around $100 that you might want to try. It's a little chunkier, and doesn't have a lot of track use yet, but I haven't heard any bad comments about them. I know some Miata drivers are using them for rain tires because of their cost. Again, not a lot of track feedback yet though.
If you can't find used wheels, the cheapest widely used race wheels are the Kosei K1s, which TireRack is closing out now at $115 a piece. They're only 13.5 lbs roughly, are low pressure cast and shot peened. You won't find a wheel like that anywhere else. The K1 is being discontinued for the K1 TS.
Team Dynamics is another one, since they're used for Spec Miata they're generally not too expensive. Good-Win-Racing has quite a supply, you might find cheaper looking around.
There are some other low cost alternatives out there that are very good, but generally more weight or a 6.5" wheel width is what you get.
The Konig Rewind is a newer 15x7 that's around $100 that you might want to try. It's a little chunkier, and doesn't have a lot of track use yet, but I haven't heard any bad comments about them. I know some Miata drivers are using them for rain tires because of their cost. Again, not a lot of track feedback yet though.
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Re: (unrealwrc)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by unrealwrc »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
O and how are you "noticing" them "over-heat" braking? My buddy runs hard on his during 30 minutes + sessions and doesn't seem to have a problem in his s2k</TD></TR></TABLE>
I nearly caught the front brake pads on fire while driving a Skip Barber MX-5 at Road America.
They were smoldering, but no flames yet... They told me I was the first successful student at accomplishing that. Brake fade is an interesting experience, especially when trying to slow down from 100 mph. My AutoX habits didn't translate too well towards brake longevity.
So I'd agree, heavy braking can burn up a lot of things as well.
O and how are you "noticing" them "over-heat" braking? My buddy runs hard on his during 30 minutes + sessions and doesn't seem to have a problem in his s2k</TD></TR></TABLE>
I nearly caught the front brake pads on fire while driving a Skip Barber MX-5 at Road America.
They were smoldering, but no flames yet... They told me I was the first successful student at accomplishing that. Brake fade is an interesting experience, especially when trying to slow down from 100 mph. My AutoX habits didn't translate too well towards brake longevity.So I'd agree, heavy braking can burn up a lot of things as well.
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a vendor has offered me 15x6.5 konigs (12lbs) and 205/50/15 v710's for a little under 1200 with shipping, mounting and balancing. the only thing is they don't offer heat cycling, and I don't know anybody within a couple hours that does
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From: Chicago
Re: (steve98ex)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by steve98ex »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the only thing is they don't offer heat cycling, and I don't know anybody within a couple hours that does </TD></TR></TABLE>
Some people refer to "heat cycling" as the process of getting tires REALLY HOT, up to track temperatures. Other people are just talking about getting the tires WARM, and that's what the Tire Rack's heat cycling service does. I've spoken with the guys at the Tire Rack, and they say that you can accomplish the exact same thing as their heat cycling service by taking the tires out on the highway at normal highway speeds for around 20 minutes/miles, and then take the wheels/tires off the car for a couple of days. So I recommend just doing that. It will do what the Tire Rack's service does, and you won't have to pay $15/tire for it.
Some people refer to "heat cycling" as the process of getting tires REALLY HOT, up to track temperatures. Other people are just talking about getting the tires WARM, and that's what the Tire Rack's heat cycling service does. I've spoken with the guys at the Tire Rack, and they say that you can accomplish the exact same thing as their heat cycling service by taking the tires out on the highway at normal highway speeds for around 20 minutes/miles, and then take the wheels/tires off the car for a couple of days. So I recommend just doing that. It will do what the Tire Rack's service does, and you won't have to pay $15/tire for it.
Re: (Linus_E)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Linus_E »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if you tink the 888 are god you havent drive somting that are god.
888 sucks </TD></TR></TABLE>
sooo whats good or god, in your opinion?
888 sucks
</TD></TR></TABLE>sooo whats good or god, in your opinion?